Floral Laptop Sleeve

[HudsonRanch]

Hi, this is my first post and my first attempt at a laptop sleeve! I made this laptop sleeve, one side floral, one side basket weave with a brand. I realize the floral is too small for the side it is on, but I didn't want to go too far off pattern free hand (I am not nearly that experienced). After doing this I realize I need to get a better swivel knife and a better basket weave stamp. My roomie upstairs was not happy with my banging away on all those stamps!

-Leather was 7-8 oz euro side from tandy.

-Saddle tan gel antique

-Resist with Eco Flo Top Finish Gloss

-Double sided rivets

I appreciate any advice you all might have! Or tips and tricks for next time. Thanks for looking.

Lane (AB, Canada)

[Bob Blea]

First off welcome to the forum! You are off to a nice start!

Your basket stamping looks very even and straight, you're doing a good job there. You don't seem to be getting a lot of depth though in either the basket stamp or the floral carving. I'm not sure why, though it may be that your leather was too dry or it may be that you aren't striking with enough force. How firm and steady is the table or surface that you are stamping on? A strong table or workbench might help cut down on the noise too...

Hope this helps,

Bob

[HudsonRanch]

First off welcome to the forum! You are off to a nice start!

Your basket stamping looks very even and straight, you're doing a good job there. You don't seem to be getting a lot of depth though in either the basket stamp or the floral carving. I'm not sure why, though it may be that your leather was too dry or it may be that you aren't striking with enough force. How firm and steady is the table or surface that you are stamping on? A strong table or workbench might help cut down on the noise too...

Hope this helps,

Bob

Thank you for the advice. I used to work on just a little desk but it was fairly flimsy. I have a small marble slab and an anvil that I do the larger stamps on, but I do need a better table for sure. I wasn't sure on moistness, I have been told different amounts by different people, but I likely do need a little more. Thanks again!

Lane

[Bob Blea]

Moisture content is a tough thing to learn without being able to see and feel a properly cased piece of leather that someone else has done. You're kind of left to trial and error to find out what works right for you and the environment you tool in. It will take a lot longer for the leather to reach the right moisture if you live in a humid place versus a very dry place like where I live. Your best bet is to try some scrap pieces, moisten them and then let them dry until the color has almost returned to what it was before you got the leather wet. They try using that basket stamp on it. If it's right you should see burnishing, or a significant darkening of the leather, when you stamp it. If you don't and the leather is very pliable or mushy, it's still too wet. If the leather doesn't take the impression, seems hard to move or doesn't burnish it's probably too dry. I find I'm still tooling me leather when it's too wet because I get impatient, and I think that is the most common problem.

Try with the scraps and stamp it when you think it's right, see what results you get, then wait another 20-30 minutes and try again. You might be surprised at the results you get waiting a little longer.

[tboyce]

I'm always impatient as well...I'm always starting and then, about halfway through thinking, "I shoulda waited until now...."

[Halitech]

A few things that are more of a personal preference that I think would increase the look substantially. First, the rivets are fast but sewing or lacing the edges will look a lot nicer and reduce the amount of leather required to make an item. Also, the rivets will work themselves loose over time meaning you will have to put new ones in eventually. Second, on the corners, round them slightly. Even if you use something small like a quarter, it will prevent them from getting banged up. Third, burnish your edges. Fourth, on the opening side on the back, keep your edge the same as the other 3 sides so it looks more uniform.

You did do a good job of keeping the basket weave going straight which a lot of people do have issues with and your dye job looks really nice. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more from you in the future

Edited December 14, 2015 by Halitech

[HudsonRanch]

Thanks for all the info! I will definitely have to practice my casing and see if there is a better time to do my stamping. I really appreciate all the advice.

Lane

[rexluthor]

Hello,

First off Nicely done. I wish my first attempt looked that good. I am now a lot better than when I first started and all ways look at my first projects and cringe. I am a leather worker here in Calgary also. Not sure why it says Las Vegas in my description. Maybe I originally joined when I lived there. I sell things at the Market at McCloud in the south on Sundays if you would like to chat stop by sometime.

Keep up the good work

Edited December 15, 2015 by rexluthor

[silverwingit]

You would do well to shake the Tandy habit and treat yourself to some high quality Hermann Oak or Wicket & Craig carving leather. Also, Fiebings Professional Oil dyes and Antique pastes are superior to Tandy products and will yield a better looking end result.

In general Tandy provides a good service making leatherwork materials and tools available to the hobbyist who walks in off the street. But the work you aspire to demands better quality tools, dyes and finishes than Tandy provides.

You are off to a great start. Now try Barry King tools and Springfield Leather for good quality HO leather cut to dimensions for you. Learn to saddle stitch from Nigel Armitage's videos.

http://www.barrykingtools.com/

http://springfieldleather.com/

https://www.youtube.com/embed/TGuiha5S2oE

And good luck!

Michelle

Edited December 15, 2015 by silverwingit