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Hi!

So I've been working on a relatively newer Pfaff 335 machine and it's been getting the job done. After sewing an entire colonial style jacket out of leather and suede on a commercial machine, I finally upgraded; however, I'm beginning to think I'm making life harder than it needs to be by not using the correct settings for each job.

I generally use a 17/105 or 18/110 diamond point needle for most things and the forum recently helped enlighten me about materials / needle / thread combos with the charts I found. I use a flat plate and the feed dogs in the pic below.

I work on wallets, duffle bags, jackets, dopp kits and a lot of random luxury items. I even make soft leather holsters.

After scouring the site and the manuals, I'm having a hard time finding good resources for what tools do what with my machine i.e. If I'm making a nice, burberry or cole haan type wallet with (fill in the blank type leather) (fill in the blank weight), I'd love to find some sort of 'standard practices' guide that answers:

what needle and thread would I use?

if binding edges, how to operate the edge binder and how to choose the size feeder etc etc

what type of leathers are --typically-- used and what range of leather thickness?

if skivving, how thin?

when stitching zippers, which feet to use for the machine?

I realize this just gets honed with time and each project is unique depending on the tastes but there has to be a guideline? I've figured out a lot thus far but it takes forever. Any help, resources, tables and/or charts are immensely appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

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