Gluing Horween Dublin

[tboyce]

So, I started working with Horween Dublin and I really like it. One thing I've noticed, however, is that the high oil content means that its a beast to glue. I mean. It seems as if the cement just wont hold! The only thing I've found is clamping the pieces together and waiting almost a day.

Has anyone found a way to work around this?

[Tugadude]

Did you try scuffing up the surfaces first? When chemical adhesion is poor, mechanical adhesion is helpful.

[tboyce]

scuffed up but still slippery as an eel

[grmnsplx]

I've had the same problem with chromexcel. I tried wiping hown the gluing surfaces with alcohol before applying the cement. It helped but wasn't perfect.

[lb61906]

For me, I found that using a very thin layer of glue did the best job with Dublin.

[Nuttish]

I have had no problems gluing lighter color unfinished flesh Dublin with Barge, but I recognize the oil and wax content of Dublin flesh is inconsistent from side to side and color to color. The backs are usually "dry" and easy to work with. The bellies are super stretchy with loose fibers that make it hard to glue. Shoulders toward the top are sometimes greasy. When I brush the glue on, I make sure that it's adequately penetrating the flesh, rather than sitting on the top. I let it dry completely, put my pieces together, and then go over the seams with a small brayer or whack them with a flat faced hammer.

What color are you using? Is yours nicer near the backs like mine? Did you make sure to rub the glue in enough to penetrate? Are you hammering or rolling after the glue-up?

[imstephenjones]

Are you applying cement to both sides, letting the cement dry for 5-15 minutes, and then applying the pieces to each other?

If not, give that a shot. My team has been flying thousands of pieces of Dublin and chromexcel and that's how we do it. Which is also the correct method for the cement application.

Let me know, would love to help you solve this problem!

[tboyce]

I am applying to both sides and waiting. What has seemed to work best is to apply the glue, let it dry completely, then apply a second coat. It holds fast after that but it's such a pain in the butt.

When you're working with welter and inverted seams, there's a lot of stress sometimes on that seam until you can get it stitched and having the glue hold is a pretty important part

[rmr]

I just got done with a brief case made from Horween Dublin.

I found what imstephenjones recommended plus roughening up the surface that is to be glued with a scratch awl really helped . One of the things I took a while to learn, was when applying products like barge rubber cement ( that is the product I use) -its imperative to make sure the glue on both pieces in dry before compressing the pieces together.

Good luck

RMR

[TinkerTailor]

I just got done with a brief case made from Horween Dublin.

I found what imstephenjones recommended plus roughening up the surface that is to be glued with a scratch awl really helped . One of the things I took a while to learn, was when applying products like barge rubber cement ( that is the product I use) -its imperative to make sure the glue on both pieces in dry before compressing the pieces together.

Good luck

RMR

Forget a scratch awl, use the adhesive backed 80 grit sanding discs for an angle grinder, rip off a piece as wide as the seam, stick it to something and go to town. I sometimes stick it to the tip of my finger. Easy to be accurate, and avoid marks on the nice side. I also will throw down a strip of masking tape to protect the nice part and get a nice straight seam allowance, evenly roughed up good.

Awls are slow, and most so called rougher tools are like making sushi with dynamite....