Fundamentals Of Accurate Stitches...tips Needed

[Landcruzer94]

Good Morning All,

I've been using a CB3200 for a few months now, sewing a few things and mainly getting used to how the machine is used, but I'm still having small issues with making accurate stitches when it comes to making right angles and ending stitch runs. I mainly use the machine for watch straps, so I'll start at one corner (let's say for the longer part of the strap) and with a roller guide stitch the three main sides (left side, tip, right side) just fine. When it comes to stopping exactly where I would need to make a right angle I always seem to run into a pickle where the last stitch is always shorter than the rest, ruining the aesthetics (to me at least) of the strap. once I make my right angle I continue at my regular stitch length and stitch maybe 5/8" and run into the same pickle again, sometimes I even over/undershoot the hole by just enough that it ruins the whole piece.

What I'm finding difficult is judging where the needle will hit next, and planning far enough ahead to make sure this doesn't happen. Part of this difficulty is the center presser foot is bulky and tough to see exactly where it will hit. I've been trying to lift the presser foot just as the needle is reaching the leather to see where it's hitting, but it's letting off a little tension. I also try to look at the outer foot to see where it's hitting the leather in anticipation of where the next stitch is going to be, but still doesn't look 100%.

Are there any tips out there that could help? Thanks! I'll post a few shots shortly of what I'm referencing.

Thanks!

Edited February 25, 2016 by Landcruzer94

[Landcruzer94]

This is pretty much what I'm referring to. As you can see my stitches end up either too short, too long, or just plain not-straight. I'm a little bit better, but I hate to throw away perfectly good straps because of stupid errors.

[Gregspitz]

start planning your stitches ahead when you are at those critical areas. For instance in the picture on the buckle end of the strap you need to decide after you make the turn whether you want 4 or 5 stitches and then do them manually with the machine to get those 4 or 5. Otherwise you need to do some testing prior to sewing the strap and see what works best .

When you go back up and finish the billet end of the strap you need to plan ahead and maybe even use a scratch awl to place a hole where you want to end up and shorten or lengthen your stitch length a little for a few stitches and then manually place the needle in the last hole you made.

Hope that helps. I also found if you have a good machine you can remove your thread and start over and hit the same holes and change where the bad ones are if the thread is thick enough to cover your mistake.

Greg

[Colt W Knight]

A CB3200 seems like overkill on thin watch straps. Are you have trouble keeping the leather flush, and not plunging into the needle hole where it goes to pick up the bobbin thread?

[Landcruzer94]

start planning your stitches ahead when you are at those critical areas. For instance in the picture on the buckle end of the strap you need to decide after you make the turn whether you want 4 or 5 stitches and then do them manually with the machine to get those 4 or 5. Otherwise you need to do some testing prior to sewing the strap and see what works best .

When you go back up and finish the billet end of the strap you need to plan ahead and maybe even use a scratch awl to place a hole where you want to end up and shorten or lengthen your stitch length a little for a few stitches and then manually place the needle in the last hole you made.

Hope that helps. I also found if you have a good machine you can remove your thread and start over and hit the same holes and change where the bad ones are if the thread is thick enough to cover your mistake.

Greg

Thanks for the tip, I'll keep at it

A CB3200 seems like overkill on thin watch straps. Are you have trouble keeping the leather flush, and not plunging into the needle hole where it goes to pick up the bobbin thread?

Not generally, the overall thickness ends up being somewhere between 7-10oz and it's firm enough to resist doing that.

[Ken G]

Watch this video and practice:

[Landcruzer94]

Thanks, I've watched this video before and it's somewhat helpful. I do like the center presser foot that he has on that machine because you have a lot of visibility of where the needle is heading, but cannot seem to find one. Mine has a significant amount of metal in the front like this one. Any idea where to find one or have people modified theirs?

[Joon1911]

That's the standard Cobra center presser foot.

http://www.leathermachineco.com/product/center-toe-presser-foot/

I'd guess it would fit the 3200 which if I'm not mistaken is still based on the Juki 441. You could ask Cobra Steve who is on this forum. He would be able to confirm.

As an alternative, why not just modify your existing foot? Pretty straight forward for someone moderately handy.

Edited February 26, 2016 by Joon1911

[TinkerTailor]

A further trick is to set a pair of dividers to exactly 4 stitches in length, and then use them to make a mark on the stitch line exactly 4 stitches before the corner. If you hit this mark, you will also hit the corner. You can use this as a guide for how much to shorten or lengthen the last 4 stitches to hit the corner, hiding the difference across a couple stitches. If you end up a half stitch off, it is really hard to hide in the last stitch, but can be hidden in the last 4 or 5 if you have a frame of reference.

Most of the feet that are sold for these machines originated as shop modified feet someone made for saddle work, which were then mass produced. A dremel and a cutoff wheel will make your foot into an open toe one in no time. Just polish it good after to eliminate any burrs and sharp spots.

Edited February 26, 2016 by TinkerTailor

[Landcruzer94]

That's the standard Cobra center presser foot.

http://www.leathermachineco.com/product/center-toe-presser-foot/

I'd guess it would fit the 3200 which if I'm not mistaken is still based on the Juki 441. You could ask Cobra Steve who is on this forum. He would be able to confirm.

As an alternative, why not just modify your existing foot? Pretty straight forward for someone moderately handy.

Seeing the comment below I'll look into cutting the foot, thanks!

A further trick is to set a pair of dividers to exactly 4 stitches in length, and then use them to make a mark on the stitch line exactly 4 stitches before the corner. If you hit this mark, you will also hit the corner. You can use this as a guide for how much to shorten or lengthen the last 4 stitches to hit the corner, hiding the difference across a couple stitches. If you end up a half stitch off, it is really hard to hide in the last stitch, but can be hidden in the last 4 or 5 if you have a frame of reference.

Most of the feet that are sold for these machines originated as shop modified feet someone made for saddle work, which were then mass produced. A dremel and a cutoff wheel will make your foot into an open toe one in no time. Just polish it good after to eliminate any burrs and sharp spots.

The divider trick is genius, I'll try it out! Thank you!