How stiff should a finished Western holster be

[LumpenDoodle2]

I'm still very much an apprentice in this leather making thing, but have been fortunate to sell a number of my Western style holsters to folk.   A great way to learn, and earn money.

But, I have had two people not happy with how stiff/tough my finished holsters are.   That set me wondering about how to get the affect they want.   I figure that although I can't see any advantage to softening a holster, if that's what a customer wants, fair 'nuff.

So, what would be the best way soften up a holster after the stamping, and shaping of 3mm+ has left it hardened.   I use Aussie conditioner as a finish, but would a good coating of Neatsfoot oil both inside and out do the trick.   Maybe saddle soap first?

I am moving somewhat out of my territory here, so any advice would be gratefully received (I've added a picture of one of my rigs just to give you an idea of what I'm making).

[ruger]

My opinion western holsters should be firm and permit easy draw and reholstering. Soft holsters tend to slow draw and reholstering and can be a safety issue. I notice there is a hammer thong that can be used when not in use. Soft holsters for cowboy action or concealed carry should be stiff. JMHO

Very nice rig, just need a L. H. holster to finish it off.

J. D.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Hi many thanks for the reply (and the compliment).   

Being from Scotland, there isn't many opportunities to get my hands on a 'proper' rig.    Photographs and vids are fine, but just not the same holding a real holster, and feeling how it is constructed.

I have been very fortunate in that one of my customers is extremely experienced in competition gun shooting.   He has very generously just sent me a couple of competition holsters to look at.

Bit of an eye opener, and will certainly make me 'up my game' as they say.

As to customers after soft holsters, well, each to their own, I suppose, and it will be another bit of experience for me.

[dikman]

Looks very nice, LumpenDoodle. I was wondering why someone would want the holster soft. My research thus far has shown that most "original" holsters of the Old West were indeed soft leather, as they were intended to enclose and protect a gun (a fast draw didn't seem to be a concern). The modern need (single action shooting etc), however, really requires a very stiff holster, shaped to the gun and with very little retention (like you appear to be making).

So I'm a bit puzzled.

Lots of neatsfoot oil will definitely soften it, but could also turn it into a shapeless lump! If someone wants a soft holster the best way is probably to use thin leather with no lining?

[Josh Ashman]

Most of the western style single action "rigs" I've made aren't for Cowboy Action Shooters. I live in southwest Missouri in a very rural county and many of the rigs I've built get used while riding horseback or to carry a sidearm while hunting but most of the time they hang on a wall or go in a gun safe/cabinet. 

The use expected and to a large degree the personal preference of the end uses dictates how firm is "right". Most of the holsters I've seen from the late 1800's are around 8 oz, unlined and quite soft/broken in. Although I'm sure they were much more rigid when they were new over a hundred years ago. 

Use and sunlight will soften and darken leather. If someone wants to artificially weather or age leather you can start as small as a light coat of neats foot oil and setting it in the sun for an afternoon or go as heavy as throwing it in a wash cycle in a clothes washer then dragging it through gravel. 

Rigid and obviously brand new, or broken in and looking like it belongs in a museum, neither is necessarily right or wrong. It depends on the what it's wanted for and what the intended use is.

My comments above are in regards to western style gun belts. In my opinion, carry holsters, whether open or concealed, should be rigid and in good repair as should any holster used in a shooting competition.

Nice job on the rig you have pictured!

All the best, Josh

[plinkercases]

Josh thanks for that input.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Many thanks.   I may be struggling to find an afternoon of sunshine, but gravel I can do. :-)

[plinkercases]

As a genetic Scotsman I find that very funny! Thanks for the laugh.

[dikman]

Forgot to ask, what colour stain did you use (or is it natural)?

[LumpenDoodle2]

The holster is dyed with Walnut.   It does give a good tone to the leather, and looks good in pictures, especially when it's a well taken picture (customer took it, not me).

[dikman]

Nice. I made my last lot as natural, no staining just oil/wax. I think I like the walnut better, as it looks more natural than natural .

Is it Feibings dye?

[LumpenDoodle2]

Yes, Fiebing's professional oil dye.    It can also hide a multitude of sins too, unlike natural.

[dikman]

Thanks for that, I'll probably have to ask them to get it in as I haven't seen it on the shelf.

[LumpenDoodle2]

I have the walnut dye on back order from Abbey England.   Apparently, it's on its way on a slow boat from the US, and can't be had anywhere here, even for ready money.

I was told on enquirely, that the arrival of this boat is affected by the weather, good weather, and it takes but a few weeks.     Bad weather, and it will take months, as the boat sort of hangs about sheltering from the rain, or something.

Hence image of European leatherworkers en masse praying for good weather over the Pond.