Any sources on medieval leatherwork?

[Erian]

Hello!

I was wondering if anyone knows some sources on medieval leatherwork.

I've been tooling leather for about a year, but I have a major interest in the medieval period. I don't do re-enactment myself, but I would like to know how to make leather projects that are about as accurate as they can get. I have been looking on the internet, but couldn't find any books or other information on medieval leatherwork. There are some patterns, but it is often unclear to me if they are actually medieval, or whether they were based on modern (fantasy) movies.

I am therefore looking for sources about this. For patterns it could be preserved items from the middle ages, but for the leatherworking process, a description is probably needed... Any information is welcome! About tanning and preparation, stitching, tooling, colouring, perhaps some patterns, other processes (such as making cuir bouilli).

Is there anyone who knows such sources?
My thanks!

[fivewayswelshcobs]

The most interesting information I found when looking for leather vessels was the Reverend's Big Blog of Leather it will almost certainly give you some ideas of where else to look .

[zuludog]

Surf & Search!  Use both medieval and the old British spelling, mediaeval

Google will just give the definitions of 'mediaeval' if you search for mediaeval leatherwork'. You have to click on the question to make it search for mediaeval leatherwork

That way I found that York Archaeology has a PDF for Viking and Mediaeval leatherwork, but there are lots of other references

Try searching for 'medieval reenactment'; karl robinson; Walsall Leather Museum

[Peter Darby]

Purses in Pieces is probably the best source for Pouches and a few other leather items.  The books based on the York archeological dig cover sheaths and shoes from the angelo-saxon and Viking era.   You just have to spend some time googling  and there is quite a bit.  Some are out of print but many are not.

[Brocade]

A good resource that I have found are sheathes and frogs from early weaponry. They show a lot of early carving designs and styles, and make region easily distinguishable based on the type of weapon the sheath was made for.

[HENDREFORGAN]

From amongst my list of "Useful Data Links" this one should give you hours of reading and some very useful research :

http://www.therionarms.com/links.shtml

Without knowing what items would be your preference my advice for guidelines would be as follows :

1.  Though archaeologists argue over when the first tanneries can be dated . . boy, do they just want only 1000% proof . . man has been tanning leather since the Stone Age.  One fairly new piece of important data that blew a lot of counterargument out of the water was the leather items found with the "Ice Man " Otzi, he has now been dated to about 3239 to 3105 BC and the copper items found on him shows there was no definitive "roll over year" from Stone Age to Bronze Age in Central Europe.  He has tanned leather items that not only display accurate stitching but some evidence of tooling too!   So, use only and/or keep to FULL GRAIN veg-tanned hides for animals that existed in the time and country for which you are recreating items.

2. Stitching was by notched thorns with animal gut sinew but rolled linen thread would be plausible too . . so much less smelly . . but NEVER make the oft-repeated mistake of assuming that just because an item was made a very long time ago it wasn't sophisticated, you'll be amazed what our very earliest ancestors did with no metal tools and only fat-lamps for light!  So regular hand saddle-stitching is just fine!

3. Many leather items were entirely functional and not decorative so they were often worn, or shaped, "inside out".  This is especially valid with early shoes for, with the grain innermost, it's more comfortable on a bare foot and, with the rough flesh outermost, the easiest to keep saturated with animal fat to maintain solid waterproofing.

4. Fittings.  Now here is one small aspect of "period reconstruction" that truly upsets an old hand like me.  Electroplated buckle and/or rivets and eyelets!!   Stick to what could ONLY have been available.  Brass, iron and - of course - copper hose rivets.

Above all know that what you can do today can completely bring back to life something lost many, many hundred's of years ago.

Enjoy!!!

Edited September 24, 2016 by HENDREFORGAN
Correct typos