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Hi 'n' tight is good... Good to see you fellas gittin' some  use outta them!

 

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Cool.  And you bring up another point about these mag thingies.  It looks like you were able to run a stitch up the center and have enough room to separate the mags (some models won't work that way).  Was this trial 'n' error, or did you have an old one done that way? 

Thing is, some folks like a tension screw so they can set the tension themself.  But I find one screw between the mags (as you'll see) not so wonderful.. since backing off the tension affects BOTH sides.  Some might think that won't matter -- until they try it!  When you pull a mag, you change the tension on the OTHER mag.....

Ah.. maybe that's another issue ;)

Keep 'em comin' ..

 

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That was trial and error, but next time I might run two stitches in the middle and leave about 1/8" space in between. It works but they are really close to each other.
I think one can also do a triple pouch that way. My next project gonna be a double pouch based on your P938 pouch for my wife's P239 .40 which got also single stack mags. Just need to get me a little drill press first so I can drill the holes for the stitching with a 1/16" bit and get the sanding and burnishing done nicer.
Still learning as I go. Made my first pattern for a dual position holster for my P229 also which allows me to carry either cross draw or strong side. Will see how that comes out.

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I don't care for drilled holes, personally.   Or any holes, really, except I can't figure out how to stitch without SOME kind of holes :)  

Drill press definitely worth having in the shop for a number of reasons.  BUT... if you want to use your drill press for making stitching holes, then I would recommend this simple TIP:

INSTEAD of a twist drill (sometimes called a drill "bit"), chuck a #24 or #25 chisel point sewing machine needle in your drill press.  Pressing holes (drill press OFF) with this will make a hole which closes back up when stitched - the same as an awl - leaving a stronger product and a cleaner look.

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2 hours ago, JLSleather said:

TIP:

INSTEAD of a twist drill (sometimes called a drill "bit"), chuck a #24 or #25 chisel point sewing machine needle in your drill press.  Pressing holes (drill press OFF) with this will make a hole which closes back up when stitched - the same as an awl - leaving a stronger product and a cleaner look.

excellent tip.  I didn't care for a lockstitch (what a sewing machine makes) but would often use the boss to make/space my holes so that I could come back and do a saddle stitch. 

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I recommend the needle because: 

  • they're both cheap and easy to find.  
  • Usually the needle is already sharp when you get it.  You could use an actual awl blade, but with the crap sold these days you'd likely have to sharpen it BEFORE it's worth using.  And of course someone would recommend a video for you to watch about sharpening an awl blade :rofl:   But, wouldn't shock me to find out there's a video about how to sharpen leather point machine needles!

One more idea.. when you get the drill press, drill about 1/8" or 3/16" hole right through the table (or base, depending on your model).  This will give you a spot where you can have the leather supported underneath, but not worry about hitting the table with the needle (make sure it lines up with the hole).  Yours may come with a hole already in it, if not - put one there.

Oh, one more idea ... cover the press table with some other material, to avoid contact between your "good" leather and the steel.  You could 'git all fancy' and laser cut some clear acrylic sheet, or you could do what I do... throw on a scrap of about 4 oz suede just larger than the table.... ;)  If you punch a hole in it about the size of the hole in the drill base, then your "cover" won't stick on the needle.

So there you have it....

  • get the drill press (watch craigslist and auctions.. these things are everywhere)
  • drill a clearance hole through the table
  • chuck machine needle (orient the right way.. as you like)
  • verify needle comes down in clearance hole
  • cover table with whatever (piece of paper would work, but put the hole in that too so it doesn't stick on the needle)
  • poke away ... turning the PIECE, not the table or the spindle

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Thanks for posting these, Jeff!  Awesome work on the patterns, and a mighty generous thing to do!

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Thanks for the pattern and discussion.

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Thank you for posting those patterns.  I do have a plan for using something like the pancake for a cell phone.  Saw it on some site somewhere and liked the idea.  Might even work on purse straps, backpacks, or a messenger bag shoulder straps.  Might also need modification.  The cool thing is, the Galaxy S5 is the same size as the S7.  I also plan to use cardboard wrapped in plastic or packing tape and make a block for easier wet molding and future attempts.

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Most of the larger smart phone holsters I have seen are vertical, and after having put it on paper, I can see why sort of.  

Here is a quick jotting down of the idea.  In the phone shape, the innermost line is the outline of the phone inside the protective cover.  The outer line is a 1/4"ish allowance for wet molding and stitching.  The squares of the paper are 1/4" for size reference. 

Criticisms are welcome, otherwise how do we learn.

s7pancake.jpg

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On 12/14/2016 at 5:39 AM, BruceGibson said:

Thanks for posting these, Jeff!

Welcome (sorry, forgot about this thread and jus' saw this! :blush: )

 

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I'm not sure where I found this picture of a cell phone holster

IMG_0296.JPG

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I found that one a couple of hours ago browsing further into this section.  It is for an iPhone 6.  Somewhere around page 5 or 6.  In an hour or so, my palm print will fade from my forehead...

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Cell phone holster.  In case ya needa pull it QUIK :rofl:

 

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