Juki DU 141 any good?

[Jackmitch]

Hi

This is my first post and I'd like to start by saying that this is a great site filled with just so much information. 

Could anybody help me make a choice here. I'm new to leatherworking and I am on a crash course absorbing as much info on leather as I can. I want to start a small business selling leather bags leather items (wallets, card holders, purses, etc.) I've been trying to find a good sewing machine to buy for weeks but my choices [in my country] are very limited.

After reading relevant content on here (Thank you Wiz!) I've narrowed down my choices to the following machines:

 

Juki DU 141 (Used 3 years. refurbished)

Juki DNU 241  (Out of stock. My first choice too)

Juki 1181 

Singer 711C (last choice. Too pricey)

 

Right now I think I will be settling for the Juki DU 141. Any input would be very appreciated. 

Edited June 15, 2016 by Jackmitch

[RockyAussie]

They are all nice machines but are flat beds. If I were starting out wanting to make wallets and bags my first machine would be a Cylinder machine. Going around gussets and such is sometimes impossible with a flat bed. When I stitch around wallets I always use a cylinder. A cylinder can be set up to have a table like a flat bed if you want as well. I have many styles of machines but the cylinders get the most work of all. I wish you well with your business future. Brian

[Jackmitch]

15 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

They are all nice machines but are flat beds. If I were starting out wanting to make wallets and bags my first machine would be a Cylinder machine. Going around gussets and such is sometimes impossible with a flat bed. When I stitch around wallets I always use a cylinder. A cylinder can be set up to have a table like a flat bed if you want as well. I have many styles of machines but the cylinders get the most work of all. I wish you well with your business future. Brian

Thank you RockyAussie! I took your advice seriously and asked the shop if they had any cylinder walking foot machines. Fortunately he has 2, and my choice is now between the following.

 

Pfaff  - $540

Seiko - $750

 

The shopkeep didn't have the model numbers memorized so he'll get back to me. 

I looked more into cylinder machines and realized that there is just so much more to learn. Like a light was switched on a dark area on leather work. This definitely helped. Thanks again. 

[mikesc]

Allow for the costs of spare / replacement parts and accessories that you may need, Pfaff parts seem to be made out of "expensive", some older Pfaff parts may even be made from "unobtanium", Seiko parts maybe made from "less expensive" ( but still very good quality ) and "more available"..it is going to depend on the models..

The prices I've seen for some Pfaff parts, even feet, frightens my wallet.

[Jackmitch]

Update:

The shopkeep got back to me. Here are the models

 

Pfaff 337

Seiko CW-8B

 

Thanks for the advice mikesc. Also, I think I've seen you in a different site? Do you frequent Dave Barrack's webcomic? 

Anyways, I'll speak with the shopkeep about spare parts. If he's got some in stock. The Pfaff is more appealing to me thanks to it being $200 cheaper but I don't mind getting the Seiko if it is a better machine overall that'll last longer. I'll be buying the machine later within the day. 

 

Update:

I can't seem to find much info on the Pfaff 337. Google shows this though. I'll keep digging.

Edited June 16, 2016 by Jackmitch

[Jackmitch]

Relevant:

I looked up Seiko CW-8B  prices and found that 2nd hand ones go for $1200 over there in the west. This surprised me for a moment till I remembered that Seiko has always been cheaper here since Japan is in close proximity.

e.g. 

I paid $100 for this Seiko watch

 

Also, parts for the Seiko will probably be easier to find. Looks likely I'm getting Seiko CW-8B binding machine

[RockyAussie]

Wait stop what is the big rush. A binding machine cylinder may not be as useful. It takes a lot of mods to make it multiply useful.

I cant say about the Pfaff 337 as I dont have one I would try and get a 335. Please wait for some advise from some more specialized members like Wizcrafts and gottaknow and constablery and Darren Bolwalsky. Sorry if I spelt names wrong guys I don't know how to look up members on the run. Most of these guys are on line every day and will normally answer.

 

[Jackmitch]

Thanks for the heads up RockyAussie, I appreciate the advice. The Seiko CW-8B is here now though. They even gave a demonstration of the machine and I am (currently) happy with its capabilities. I just can't seem to get the hang of it though and if the machine hadn't been demonstrated for me, I'd probably think I threw out my money. 

 

Here's a video of the Seiko:

 

Except for some modifications, that's what I have right now.

Now all I need is to find the manual for this. I currently don't know how to get it to run as slowly as they did.

[RockyAussie]

Hi Jackmitch, If you have the setup as shown in the vidio. I would have easily payed double that amout here. To slow it up try turning the black large knob anti clockwise. I am not sure of the other flip up and down ones but I think they should allow you to have needle stay down when you stop which is handy for corners. Gottaknow's gottaknow. Look after it and it will look after you.

[Jackmitch]

RockyAussie, no it isn't set up like that.  "Some modifications" is a big understatement.

I'll put a picture here later but the biggest differences are as follows:

• I do not have that thing that attaches to the black wheel. That plastic thing with the red light
• I do not have that big thing mounted at the bottom of the motor. The thing with the knobs, dials, and labelled plugs
• My machine is off-white

Here's a more accurate Google image 

 

 

Still looking for the manual on this thing. Would it be safe to play around with this machine to figure it out? Anything I should avoid specifically?

Edited June 19, 2016 by Jackmitch

[brmax]

Hey Jackmitch whats the motor look like, or any buttons and digital light stuff.

Sure just sew, and skip the knob turning.

Knowing the motor style you have and if it is going to run the slow speed for some leather stuff really is needed.

Nice machine there, and have a good day.

Later

Floyd

[RockyAussie]

From what I understand you have been trying it and it is going to fast. I would like to see a picture or 2 of the underneath side. Seldom will a binding machine be set up with a reducer in standard form and that MAY be the way to go. I would suspect though if you can find the extra $ get yourself a set up like the one in the video you had in. They should allow you to 1 stitch then stop with the needle still in and believe me that lets me get away with some very complicated stitching at times. Please see pics below of two of the tote bag styles we make. Without the vari stop type of control I would not bother with any thing like this level of maneuvering. Without a reducer a trick that can help when learning is to put a block of wood under the speed pedal and if needed  a bit of foam attached to it as well. Bottom pulley on motor should be around 50mm (2")