First holster, give me your critique and criticism

[TheITMan]

Hey guys, first post on the forum. Was hoping to get some critics and pointers on how to improve. Please take a look and let me know what you think. Any help you can provide would be great. A huge thank you to Woolfe, I studied his tutorial heavily when I got stuck. 

Edited July 6, 2016 by TheITMan
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[JLSleather]

Well done!

I'd pull that "wrap" around just another 1/2" or so, to get more of the trigger area covered - simple adjustment really.

If I was going to "nit pick", for myself I'd like to see that white thread with a little heavier thread and a bigger stitch length -- just for more contrast.. not structural.  I'd certainly be interested in knowing how well the black holds up on the suede side.  

For a first, that looks purdy durn CLEAN.  Shoot, that looks purdy good for a tenth one

 

[TheITMan]

5 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Well done!

I'd pull that "wrap" around just another 1/2" or so, to get more of the trigger area covered - simple adjustment really.

If I was going to "nit pick", for myself I'd like to see that white thread with a little heavier thread and a bigger stitch length -- just for more contrast.. not structural.  I'd certainly be interested in knowing how well the black holds up on the suede side.  

For a first, that looks purdy durn CLEAN.  Shoot, that looks purdy good for a tenth one

 

Thanks man, Iv seen some of your patterns, hope to get to that level of "clean" at some point. The trigger is in a de-cocked position right now. Normally forward another .5 inch or so. Cover the .5 your talking about? 

Only thing I can't quite figure out is how to keep the edges from coming up. I sanded with 320, 400, 600, 1000 to get them smooth and get rid of the fuzzys however they still feel rough after a while. Any suggestions?

[JLSleather]

I mean half inch more to the LEFT, or other words make your reinf piece LONGER by about that long.  I don't doubt it's safe as is, just thinking like potential customers will see it.

I don't own any 1000 grit... not since i worked with oak and walnut!  I usually do 120 to get close, then burnish.  Maybe touch up with some 220 later after it's dry.  Some leather is more stubborn than others about burnishing.  I do have a little wax I use on the tough ones (roughly even mix of bees wax / paraffin).  Actually sink it INTO the leather, then buff with a piece of canvas.  The canvas will finish it up, polish it right purdy.  And I use white canvas, so if there's any coming off, I'll know ..

[TheITMan]

4 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

I mean half inch more to the LEFT, or other words make your reinf piece LONGER by about that long.  I don't doubt it's safe as is, just thinking like potential customers will see it.

I don't own any 1000 grit... not since i worked with oak and walnut!  I usually do 120 to get close, then burnish.  Maybe touch up with some 220 later after it's dry.  Some leather is more stubborn than others about burnishing.  I do have a little wax I use on the tough ones (roughly even mix of bees wax / paraffin).  Actually sink it INTO the leather, then buff with a piece of canvas.  The canvas will finish it up, polish it right purdy.  And I use white canvas, so if there's any coming off, I'll know ..

gotcha. thanks for the illustration. ill give the wax a shot. 

i manufacture custom firearms in my spare time. the 1k grit is for flat-topping and polishing the rails on my 1911's (a bit more refined than my holsters i assure you).

what length stitch do you recommend? iv just been going with whatever is on the little rolly-wheel spacer thing (please ignore my ignorance, lol) as it was cheap and i didnt have to wait for a stitching iron to space my stitches. i do want to get a set of pricking irons but not sure what size to get.... also what is the best way to finish the felt side? i put it rough out to grip the pants better when drawing but the parts that contact my side (top of each side near the loops) irritates my skin and id like to smooth that out as well. should i just use the same process as the edges? sand smooth and burnish?

[JLSleather]

Your "overstitch wheel" (I guess is what you're referring to) may have a '5' (per inch) wheel, which would be fine.  And a relatively  heavy thread.... 5-cord (ish).  Again, this is just cosmetics... I'm sure the displayed one will hold up.

And yeah, you can sand the suede, but it looks like you have a pretty good 'nap' already.

IN the tool room , back when, if I needed something that smooth it was a combination of a surface griinder and lapping compound -- neither much use on leather!

OH.. what tutorial did you see?

 

Edited July 6, 2016 by JLSleather

[TheITMan]

7 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Your "overstitch wheel" (I guess is what you're referring to) may have a '5' (per inch) wheel, which would be fine.  And a relatively  heavy thread.... 5-cord (ish).  Again, this is just cosmetics... I'm sure the displayed one will hold up.

And yeah, you can sand the suede, but it looks like you have a pretty good 'nap' already.

IN the tool room , back when, if I needed something that smooth it was a combination of a surface griinder and lapping compound -- neither much use on leather!

OH.. what tutorial did you see?

 

i believe this is what you were referring to when you say tutorial.  

i think it did have another wheel that came with it. ill have to search, lost in the mess that is my workshop. to many gun parts to little space im afraid. gotta find a organization solution to that one. 

when you say Nap i assume that refers to the texture of the leather? if so do you think i can just use some wax to burnish down the fluff? also debating finding a very thin piece of leather and covering over the tnuts.... any thoughts?

[JLSleather]

Yeah, purdy common to have a leather backer over the t-nuts.  As for finishing suede, I gotta leave that to somebody else

 

[TheITMan]

Just now, JLSleather said:

Yeah, purdy common to have a leather backer over the t-nuts.  As for finishing suede, I gotta leave that to somebody else

 

no worries. thanks for all your input, i try to be like a sponge and soak up as much as i can. ill post some more Pics once i get a chance to experiment some more with the holster. 

[Josh Ashman]

That's a really good looking first holster, nice job!

Canvas as JLS suggested works well to burnish. I use cordura nylon, it works well too. You can cut up an old pair of Levi's and use them too, but the dye will rub off on your edges although on black edges that isn't a problem. Whatever you use, just make sure to wet the edge first. I use a sponge for that. then rub in one direction until it starts to gloss up a bit then rub both ways. Glycerin saddle soap, the bar, kind also works well on edges. I'll rub a notch in the bar and use it as a slicker. A little moisture then a rub down with the bar saddle soap will also usually smooth down the flesh side of your leather. Time and wear will also take care of that. 

One way to have the T nuts covered is to "sandwich" them between the layers of leather instead of having them exposed on the back. 

Again, nice job.

Josh  

[TheITMan]

22 minutes ago, Josh Ashman said:

That's a really good looking first holster, nice job!

Canvas as JLS suggested works well to burnish. I use cordura nylon, it works well too. You can cut up an old pair of Levi's and use them too, but the dye will rub off on your edges although on black edges that isn't a problem. Whatever you use, just make sure to wet the edge first. I use a sponge for that. then rub in one direction until it starts to gloss up a bit then rub both ways. Glycerin saddle soap, the bar, kind also works well on edges. I'll rub a notch in the bar and use it as a slicker. A little moisture then a rub down with the bar saddle soap will also usually smooth down the flesh side of your leather. Time and wear will also take care of that. 

One way to have the T nuts covered is to "sandwich" them between the layers of leather instead of having them exposed on the back. 

Again, nice job.

Josh  

Thanks for the input Josh, nice to hear from another Josh every once in a while. I'll have to invest in some canvas. Where might I be able to source saddle soap locally? What store chains Sell it? 

[Josh Ashman]

Well hello Josh,

You should be able to find it in any feed or tack store. Tractor Supply Co. or something like that. Amazon also carries it, just search "Fiebings Glycerin Saddle Soap". I've heard people say that the yellow bar Neutrogena soap is about the same thing but I've never tried it. 

All the best, Josh

[TheITMan]

ah there is a Tractor Supply Co. right down the road from my place. ill have to stop by there and look into it. not a whole bunch of stuff out here. gotta order most stuff online. thanks for the tips. sadly im allergic to the Neutrogena stuff. something they put in it does not agree with my skin. unfortunately this is one that i will have to defer to someone else to be the guinea pig. ill see if i cant stop by the Tractor Supply Co tonight and pick up a bar. ill post the results hopefully tonight or tomorrow. 

 

Cheers. 

[dikman]

Yep, the Neutrogena soap is glycerine-based (it's in a wrapper with a black strip on it here). I had to look up the MSDS because I'm experimenting with it as a boolit lube and I didn't want "conventional" soap in the mix.

[TheITMan]

ill have to get a bar and give it a shot. if its the same as the neutrogena i may have some issues using it tho... dont like hives. 

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Is there any real difference or preference between the bar of soap and the can of soap? I have the can of yellow saddle soap and use an old t-shirt rag wrapped around Tandy's multi-size wood slicker and it works 'fairly well' but I still haven't made an edge and been happy over it. I usually end up with a "Well, I guess it's all right." kind of feeling.

[Josh Ashman]

Hey Red Bear,

I think there is a huge difference between the paste soap, white or yellow, and the glycerin bar soap. Both are fine for using as a leather cleaner/conditioner and both put a little wax shine on tack or boots but the paste isn't very good for edges in my experience. One of the nice things about the bar is you can wear a little groove, or series of grooves into it and use it just like you'd use a wooded dowel slicker. It works pretty well for me. I still hand rub with a piece of cordura and sometimes use a wood slicker too but the bar soap is good step for me. 

Have a great day folks, 

Josh

[TheITMan]

so i went to the local feed store. didnt have the bar soap. i did pick up the tin soap to help condition the flesh and flats and it worked great. was less than impressed with it on the edges tho. ill have to order a bar online. thanks for the input guys, all the info is mucho appreciated. 

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Agreed, much much appreciated. I'll have to pick up a bar as well.

 

[dikman]

ThelTMan, see if you can figure out what's causing your allergic reaction -

Triethanolamine, TEA Stearate, Sodium Tallowate, Glycerin, Water, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Sodium Oleate, Cocamide MEA, Sodium Stearate, BHT, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Trisodium HEDTA, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Fragrance (Scented option only)

(I can't even pronounce some of these!!!).

[Red Cent]

I use the glycerin bar on dry firm edges only. And I use it after sanding and burnishing. If your edges have the look of a sponge, you got it too wet or it is spongy leather.  The bar won't help.

After beveling and sanding, a light wipe with a wet rag should set you up for burnishing and a glassy smooth edge. Nothing else is needed.  After I dye the edges I burnish with a well used dowel rod that will smooth the edges surprisingly well. If the dye causes some roughness, I will get out the glycerin bar. I never use saddle soap.