What kind of stitching to use for a leather bag?

[CraftyNick]

I am working on one of my first big leather projects which is a bag made out of veg tanned leather with some tooling and decor on it.  I am going to need to stitch some pieces together, e.g. front and back panels to sides, but am not really sure where to start.  I have been watching videos from Nigel Armitage and other people on types of stitching and stitching tools. However, I still need to decide which kind of stitch to use in my particular project, and then what tools I need for it.  I have been learning about the saddle stitch, using stitching chisels and/or awls, but not sure if it would be appropriate for this project where panels will be coming together at 90 degree angles - but maybe it's fine for that, I just don't know.  Any shared advice would be much appreciated.  Thanks!

~Nick

[MADMAX22]

If its thick leather coming at a 90 to each other then ya can trim a bevel on both pieces so they miter up together and do a saddle stitch thru both. I am not good at explaining things. Look up stitching miter joints in leather. Should help. They aren't super easy till ya get the hang of em hardest part is figuring out how to hold the leather for stabbing with the awl and the proper thread tension to apply.

[soccerdad]

If I understand correctly, you want to use a box stitch. I think Nigel Armitage has a video showing a mitered version of that joint. I learned a non-mitered version (butt joint) from Valerie Michael's excellent book (link below). It's not my place to tell you how to proceed, and I really like box joints, but I respectfully suggest starting your stitching career with a simpler and more fundamental technique that applies broadly. In my experience, a common starting place would be saddle stitching pieces joined on the flesh side, as you've seen in the Armitage videos. Many if not most sides (gussets) of hand-stitched bags are joined to fronts and backs this way. However, if you have your heart set on a box joint, it's all about a good, repeatable technique and plenty of practice on scrap until you are ready to go on to your project. 

There's a lot to learn! Here are some instructional resources from which I've gained a great deal:

If you are looking at Nigel Armitage, that's a great store of information on tools and techniques. Also on YouTube you'll find Ian Atkinson's posts of how-to videos.

I strongly recommend the following books: 

Valerie Michael's terrific book teaches basic, intermediate and advanced techniques, and offers projects on which to practice the techniques:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook-Techniques/dp/1844034747

Al Stohlman wrote several books that, like Michael, start at the beginning. He has a book on hand-stitching, plus others with numerous projects and techniques. If I had it to do over, I'd get the hand-stitching book, plus the first two volumes of his three-volume set:

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1472225029&sr=1-1&keywords=al+stohlman

Whatever you decide to do, I wish you luck. Let us know how it goes. 

[CraftyNick]

Thanks folks for your helpful and friendly replies.  I looked up a box stitching tutorial from Armitage, and after watching it I decided not to use that technique.  I think I'll do a saddle stitch with the flat sides stitched together of the panels and the gusset.  I watched Amitages' video on making a messenger bag which demonstrated that technique.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jo_LjeRUQ_A  Thanks very much.  Maybe I'll post some pictures when it gets done.  (Or maybe not, depending on whether I'm proud of it or just want to hide it under the bed )

 

 

Edited August 26, 2016 by CraftyNick

[billybopp]

I think you've probably made the right decision.  The box stitch is a bitch, and probably best tackled after you've got some experience under your belt.  It also tends to work best for thicker leathers, probably thicker than you'd want for a bag.  I use the same technique you've referenced above in Nigel Armitages video to make several messenger bags and it works well.  If you're looking for a more square bottom corner for your bag, check out Ian Atkinson's messenger bag video.

Bill 

[CraftyNick]

Here is part of the project.  I think my thread was too thin to get the stitching to look angled like it is supposed to in a real saddle stitch.  I learned from Nigel Armitage  (or watched on youtube ) so I must have been doing it right.  I was using a stitching chisel with 3 mm spacing and I don't know what thickness of thread, but I don't think it was thick enough.  Do you agree?

 

Edited September 1, 2016 by CraftyNick

[MADMAX22]

Well saddle stitching is still a saddle stitch regardless if its on a mitered joint or a flat overlapping joint, the box stitches aren't all that bad as long as your awl is nice and sharp. That and having a jig like Arme has in his video.

Craftynick ya need bigger thread or a smaller awl and needle. Ya got the right start but the smaller holes or larger thread will cause the thread if stitched like the video you watched to force it in to place and gives that nice snake look to it.

Now that being said you can have nice straight stitches with the saddle stitch and they look just as good to some and is the same strength and all that. Just a different style or way of doing it.

[Tugadude]

Thread could be bigger for sure.  What specific chisel are you using?  You mentioned 3mm, but what brand?

[ArildS]

Hi, it seems you may have crossed the threads incorrectly.

 

Good images here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/71454-beginners-attempt-at-saddle-stitch/

 

Edited September 4, 2016 by ArildS
Added link

[CraftyNick]

Thanks everyone for the replies.  I'm using the 3mm spacing Craftool stitching chisle from Tandy. I thought it was a reasonable choice for a start; however, I don't expect everyone to love that brand, so please let me know if you think otherwise.  I'll have to re-examine my stitching pattern.  I thought I had gotten it correctly, but I'll double-check my process and see if I can improve it.  There is a chance, of course, that I've gotten in incorrect.  

[zuludog]

I'm not going to comment on the actual stitching, others have gone that well enough, but I thought you might like a comment about your stitching chisel

I have a couple of the Tandy Craftool chisels, with 4mm spacing, and I have improved them by carefully polishing the prongs with a needle file and fine abrasive paper. I use 600 grit paper glued to a sliver of wood - actually an old lollipop stick

The exact grade is not too important, and neither is having a needle file, just work your way down from about 200 to 1,000 grit in a few steps. Search & Surf, you can buy pack of assorted fine grades

[CraftyNick]

Thanks for the tip.  I did find that the prongs tend to stick a little.