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Finished up a couple of custom orders... still not happy with the way my keepers sit between the layers... but otherwise, came out ok.

Enjoy.

RedBlackBelts3LoRes.jpg

RedBlackBelts2LoRes.jpg

 

BlackBelt3LoRes.jpg

 

redBelt3LoRes.jpg

 

YinTx

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very very nice, did you forget the holes or is that the design , either way top job :-) your keepers look fine,  options for you to try, use thinner leather, skive both ends, if you did skive them, skive a bit further along, if you want them with crisp edges, make a press from 2 pieces of wood when the leather is wet and bend it to get a nice edge, however, like i said, your keepers look fine,  

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Sharkey,

Yes, it's the skiving part I need to perfect to eliminate the large lump in the belt.  I have to guess right now on length to skive back to, so I skive then stitch them and when I place them, I tend to discover I did not skive far enough.  Once it's stitched, no more skiving allowed. :)  I like the thinner leather idea, maybe I'll just skive the whole piece thinner, will probably make it form nicer too.

YinTx

PS yeah, I have to make the holes when I deliver to the customer, to make sure it fits nice.

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Good stuff!  Yes, it is a thickness issue.  Fix that and you got it!

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Pretty

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I usually go 5/8" wide with 5-6oz leather for the keepers. sometimes I'll even skive the ends down to 3-4 if I'm stitching it

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These look very nice.  I am beginning to work on a belt of my own now that will have stitching around it.  I would be very happy if it looked as nice as yours!  Is that a saddle stitch?

 

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Thank you CraftyNick.  yes they are both saddle stitched.  Unfortunately I had to tear the red one apart since the buckle I stitched in turned out to have a sharp inside edge that destroyed the burnished edges of the belt.  Now it'll be a freebie gift to someone, and I'll have to make another for the customer.  Bah.  Live and learn, check your buckles before you buy!  Save a lot of heartache down the road.

Delivering the black one today, hopefully this customer likes it!

YinTx

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They still look awesome Yin. Your stitching has come a long way. Mine is nowhere near. 

Would you mind taking a picture from a different perspective so the belt keeper (bulk) can be seen better?

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Mistakes are somewhat inevitable, I have just begun to put the stitching on a belt I am making upside down.  I am having a hard time finding good thread to work with?  What kind of thread are you using, or where do you get it?

 

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Yin swears by Tiger thread and lin chinois or something like that. I like the poly thread from Maine Thread co. Heck of a lot cheaper then the carriage thread tandy sells and available in multiple weights and colors

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The red belt is Cream 0.6mm Tiger thread.  The black belt I used a waxed linen/poly blend by Henry Campbell, from The Thread exchange, http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WAX165BEIN.  It was the first time I had used the thread, and it was enjoyable, and the end product looked pretty nice.  In general I use Tiger, Fil Au Chinois Lin Cable, and Campbell's Satin Laid Linen threads, with the occasional Coats Barbour thread, depending on what I am making.  My favorite by far is the Fil Au Chinois Lin Cable, but the others are all very useable and very good threads as well imho.  I sell small lengths of the thread I use, but I am not a wholesaler by any means.  If you are interested in trying out thread without having to buy entire rolls at $40-90 each, it is a good way to go.  I think most folks will agree the Tandy thread is not the best out there, but it'll stitch...and sometimes break... etc.

Thor, the black belt has already been delivered today, and the red belt has already been torn apart to replace the buckle.  when I've put it back together, I'll try to take a pic, but I suspect it won't be as pretty as it was before I had to deconstruct it.  I have another belt order today, so I'll try to get better pics of the keeper next go round.  Thanks for the complement, by the way.  I also saw your lion bin lid, incredible work.  I may only be able to dream of making something so nice.  I'm still trying to learn how to hammer a straight border on something.

YinTx

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2 hours ago, YinTx said:

I also saw your lion bin lid, incredible work.  I may only be able to dream of making something so nice.  I'm still trying to learn how to hammer a straight border on something.

YinTx

We all have our talents and I might never be as good hand sewing as you are. Thanks for the compliment ;)

You know there are tools to make straight borders easier? A wing divider is a great aid for this.

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Hi Yin TX, may I ask another question.  I purchased the thread that you sent me a link to from the thread exchange, but it is thinner than I expected.  What guage or number do you use?  Perhaps the difference between what my stitching is looking like and yours is partially the chisel used.  What chisel are you using for those belts?

Thank you

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I try to match the chisel to the thread.  The red belt has Tiger Thread, 0.6mm.  I used a Euro style chisel on it, 3.38mm spacing.  The black belt I used a chisel that I had someone buy for me from Taiwan, because it was the closest thing I could find to my Kyoshin Elle iron that is apparently discontinued.  They seem to have a very similar pattern as a Blanchard iron.  It is 8SPI.  Both used a medium Vergez Blanchard awl.  The thread is #12, (TEX 165).  It looks small diameter, but when you tap it out after stitching, it looks like you see on the black belt: a bit wider, but clearly smaller than the 0.6mm Tiger.

I hope this helps in some way!  If you post a pic of your stitching, I'm sure a dozen others will chime in to try to help out!

YinTx

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3 hours ago, YinTx said:

I used a Euro style chisel on it, 3.38mm spacing.  ...  They seem to have a very similar pattern as a Blanchard iron.  It is 8SPI.  ...

YinTx

This 3.38 mm is a tad more than 1/8 and thus for about 8 SPI.

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Hi Yin, thanks again for the helpful info.  I did get the same #12 thread, but I have not done the tapping it down.  Perhaps that will hep.  I'm using a 3 mm stitching chisel from Tandy, not sure it's the best tool for the job, but that's what I'm working with.  Anyway, as you can probably tell I'm hoping I'll be able to get my stitching to look like yours some day :)  Thanks

Edited by CraftyNick

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