Classic & NATO Watch Straps (Looking for LOTS of critique!)

[Retrospads]

First off thank you for looking at my first attempts at a classic and NATO watch straps. I'm trying to turn something I've no experience or training, into a hobby and maybe someday a career (the dream!). Both the classic and NATO straps are made from second hand horween Latigo (thoughts on Chromexcel?) and Ritza 25 0.8mm White thread (thoughts on using 0.6mm?) With the edges burnished using water then beeswax. Along with using Seiwa glue, hardware from my own watches.

Problems that I noticed while making these. 

1. Burnishing with water first then beeswax. The beeswax comes right off so I know I am doing something wrong or out of order. How can I make a beautiful burnished edge, that will stand the test of time? I don't want to just throw edge paint on, though am curious if that is a good product to add to as well.

2. Underneath the classic strap, where the stitching starts at the top in the back, it's messy. You can see the leather because it was thinned, it folded a bit and isn't clean.

3. Underneath the NATO strap where the fold is, I'm not sure if that is considered "clean" or if there is a better way to do that.

4. Stitching. The stiching on the classic, is uneven on the right side, the NATO I didn't notice much else other than a possible folded stitch on one side.

5. NATO straps were tied twice with a simple knot, I'm worried it's too "bulky", is this a normal procedure on how 

Thank you guys so much for your time, It's my first time (probably took too long) posting and asking for critiques. I bought the Art of Hand Sewing Leather Book and just kind of tried this. 

 

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Apologies as well, first time using imgur and had no idea how to get the album link. 

[Tugadude]

First, welcome to the forum.  You chose a tough first project in the classic strap, shows guts.  From what I see, the defects are ones that will sort themselves out with practice and experience.  On the skived portion of the classic strap it looks like you didn't square it up after skiving.  Just skive it and then put a ruler on the strap and cut it off square, easy.

The stitching is coming but white thread on black shows every minute irregularity.  You seem to have some dropped stitches and/or different slants on your holes.  What are you using to mark and punch your holes?

As far as edges, latigo is difficult to burnish as you've found.  Search the forums for tips and techniques.

Good luck, keep it up!

[Retrospads]

I use a wing divider around the whole edge then just a simple overstitcher with an awl to make the actual holes. 

Thanks for that tip! squaring that off makes total sense now.

I've heard using gum trag? I just want to make sure the edges stay solid for years to come!

Thank you!

[bikermutt07]

I have no advice concerning latigo, sorry.

Your watch bands look great. Way better then my first 3 Or 4 projects. 

The saddle stitch is tough to get down pat. I still don't have it, but plenty have picked it up faster then me. You're definitely on your way with it.

Don't be too critical of yourself in the beginning.  You made something for yourself. It will last a lifetime and you did it. Enjoy that part.

Even small flaws will look giant on such a small intricate piece. Not that perfection can't be accomplished, but it takes time and practice. Larger pieces are easier because the flaws aren't magnified.

Keep having fun.

Edited November 3, 2016 by bikermutt07

[Tugadude]

Awl work is something that needs to be almost robotic.  What I mean is same angle every time and if it is a tapered awl, same depth every time.  The slit needs to be the same every time or else you get wobbly stitches.

I agree with Bikermutt not to be too critical and to enjoy the ride!

[Retrospads]

Thanks you two, means a lot. I think I am so critical because I know what I like? And unfortunately perfection is a sick disease of mine. I do not own/have not built a stitching pony, and because of this I haven't learned the technique I guess you coul say with the awl? But this is something I didn't think about so that is a huge help.

[bikermutt07]

I am the same way. Different crafts have different tricks. As a carpenter I have continually been appalled at not being able to get things perfectly square and lined up. Now I glue and sand to true up the edges before stitching. 

One trick I used in places of a stitching pony was my table. I was making a tote for my wife's birthday. I laid it along the edge and put my piece of granite on top to hold it down. I had to adjust the angle of my tension pulls by 90 degrees but it worked out ok. If you have a bench vise you could glue some scraps to the jaws and make use of it.

Get creative.

[Thor]

If you want to have good edges on latigo leather you will have to either use a soldering iron or apply some edge paint like MaxEdge etc.

On a side note as I just keep wondering. Why are so many of you sanding and sanding and sanding. Leather work has a lot in common with wood working yes, but the sanding part really isn't the same. Nothing is as clean as a well made cut. It provides a clean edge that just needs to be burnished. Taking sand paper to the edge is just ripping up fibers, which then again have to be broken and broken and broken. There's no point in doing that. Sharpening your tools properly helps saving time and that helps saving money.

[Iden]

Hi Retrospads

If you want detailed plans I have them listed on etsy. They are for a folding stitching horse with the clamp which can be operated in several ways, materials list is supplied. About 40 photos of every step is included. It is a PDF downloadable file found at https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/515597211/stitching-pony-and-stitching-horse-plans. I hope this helps.

Iden

[Stetson912]

Using an awl is harder than people make it look. You definitely need a pony, it'll help immensely. You also may want to look into some pricking irons or stitching chisels, many of us use those and it simplifies things to an extent;however, I'm not discounting the practicality of proper awl technique. 

Everything looks good and just needs refinement and that comes with practice. I highly recommend looking up Nigel Armitage's YouTube channel and watching his saddle stitching videos. Very helpful and he is a master Craftsman. 

Cheers and keep it up!