recent checkbook cover

[HavenHillJay]

I used a tandy check book kit but opted to use wax thread instead of the lace that came with it.  This was before I bought a quartz slab so the impressions on the basket weave are not as sharp as they could be.  Also I'm still trying to work out the best way to case leather.  Any advice would be helpful.

 

 

 

Edited November 4, 2016 by HavenHillJay

[bikermutt07]

Great job.

[TSes]

Here's how I like to case my projects. The night before you start stamping/carving, wet both sides of your leather with a sponge or spray bottle. Don't saturate it, but give it a good dose of water. Put your project in a sealed plastic bag overnight in the refrigerator. Next morning, remove your project from the bag, and let it set until the surface goes back to it's natural color. This could be as short as 1 hour, or several hours. Then you are ready to start stamping. The fibers inside will still be damp, and will allow deep stamping   that will hold it's shape and burnish nicely. The dryer surface will let you make clean knife cuts and sharp stamping lines. Hope this helps.

Tom  

 

 

[HavenHillJay]

7 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

Great job.

Thanks!

 

 

 

7 hours ago, TSes said:

Here's how I like to case my projects. The night before you start stamping/carving, wet both sides of your leather with a sponge or spray bottle. Don't saturate it, but give it a good dose of water. Put your project in a sealed plastic bag overnight in the refrigerator. Next morning, remove your project from the bag, and let it set until the surface goes back to it's natural color. This could be as short as 1 hour, or several hours. Then you are ready to start stamping. The fibers inside will still be damp, and will allow deep stamping   that will hold it's shape and burnish nicely. The dryer surface will let you make clean knife cuts and sharp stamping lines. Hope this helps.

Tom  

 

 

 

Thanks for the tip.  I'll try that on my next project, just cut out the pieces for a small journal cover for one of my kids from a tooling side I bought.

[Bob Blea]

What did you use as a resist over your Celtic carving?  It looks like your antique bled through it leading to some unevenness.  More coats would probably help.

[HavenHillJay]

8 hours ago, Bob Blea said:

What did you use as a resist over your Celtic carving?  It looks like your antique bled through it leading to some unevenness.  More coats would probably help.

I used Satin Sheen from Tandy,  I only applied one heavy coat and thought that would be enough.  Was wrong about that.  Thanks for the tip,  I should have went over the knot work a time or two more and I think that would have left it with that natural leather look.  

Is there a better product to use to resist?

[Mattsbagger]

A few coats of whatever you're using(acrylic or oil based) with ample dry time in between. I am learning my self and hardest part is to try and rush to the next step before it's ready. I've found if I have 2 or 3 things on the go helps. Go from one to the other.lol

[HavenHillJay]

8 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

A few coats of whatever you're using(acrylic or oil based) with ample dry time in between. I am learning my self and hardest part is to try and rush to the next step before it's ready. I've found if I have 2 or 3 things on the go helps. Go from one to the other.lol

Thanks for that.  So far, I have only had one leather project going at a time and I find myself chomping at the bit to get on to the next part of the project.  

[Bob Blea]

On ‎11‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 5:29 PM, HavenHillJay said:

I used Satin Sheen from Tandy,  I only applied one heavy coat and thought that would be enough.  Was wrong about that.  Thanks for the tip,  I should have went over the knot work a time or two more and I think that would have left it with that natural leather look.  

Is there a better product to use to resist?

I never had much luck with Satin Sheen even with multiple coats.  I still had problems with my antique bleeding through.  I use Wyosheen (which is now available through Barry King) but I still use a couple of light coats, and I test it with a damp sponge to make sure the leather doesn't discolor.  If it does then the antique will get through too, so I give it another coat.  That trick will work with Satin Sheen too.

[HavenHillJay]

On 11/7/2016 at 8:29 AM, Bob Blea said:

I never had much luck with Satin Sheen even with multiple coats.  I still had problems with my antique bleeding through.  I use Wyosheen (which is now available through Barry King) but I still use a couple of light coats, and I test it with a damp sponge to make sure the leather doesn't discolor.  If it does then the antique will get through too, so I give it another coat.  That trick will work with Satin Sheen too.

Wow, thanks for that Bob!  If I can't get the Tandy product to work better, I will try Wyosheen.