Second Leatherman sheath

[CMartin]

I am 2 months into the leather working hobby.  I have been acquiring tools, watching videos, and making small odds and ends. I would appreciate any candid comments or feedback regarding this latest piece I made for my youngest son.

Thanks,
Chris

 

IMG_2 20161226_212134890.bmp

[Sheilajeanne]

If you are only 2 months into this hobby, you are doing REALLY well! Can't think of much to criticize with that knife sheathe, though maybe the stamping could be a bit bolder. Hard to say - the camera flash kind of washes it out, so it's hard to see details. Was that carving, or did you use a 3-D stamp?

 

Keep up the good work!

Edited December 30, 2016 by Sheilajeanne

[cjartist]

Did you thoroughly saturate the leather before molding?  The reason I ask is it seems that you have some wrinkling going on where the sides bend to meet up with the back.  Looks great though.  Very shiny, was that resolene or super sheen?  Keep up the good work.  You are off to a great start.

[CMartin]

Sheila,

Thank you for your feedback.   That was my first attempt at incorporating a 3D stamp into a project.   I was concerned about the stamp moving on me so I only hit it 3-4 times.   I also probably did not have the leather wet enough for such a large stamp.  I appreciate you taking the time to look at it and provide your input.

Thanks,

Chris

[CMartin]

CJ,

I only dampened the leather on this project.  Do you think a 5m soak in warm water would help fix the wrinkling?  Regarding the sheen I did apply a coat of Eco-Flo Super Shene, then a top coat of Oil for Leather.  I had just applied the oil when I took the picture.  The sheath is no where near that shiny since the oil has soaked in.  Is it OK to apply the oil after the shene?

Thank you for the feedback.  Most of this is trial and error, but it always helps to get feedback from more experienced people.

Chris

[Halitech]

Make sure the water is not too warm, the hotter it is, the harder and more the leather will shrink.

You should do the oil first and then the top coat. When done correctly, the top coat should prevent anything from being absorbed.

When you hit the stamp, did you hit it hard or are you just tapping it?

[CMartin]

Halitech,

So, stain, oil, then sheen?  

Being my first 3D stamp I was hesitant to hit too hard, then once I removed the tool and saw how lightly it had transferred I did not want to try and realign the tool to make the image deeper for fear of doubling.   So... I just left it the way it came out.  How many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop?  JK.  

Thanks for the input.

Chris

 

[Halitech]

Correct, mold, stain, assemble, touch up, oil, finish (sheen, resolene, beeswax, etc)

It's been a while since I used a maul with a 3D stamp but 1 good whack is needed when the leather is cased properly. There is a good tutorial in the how to section that may help out

[cjartist]

Halitech nailed it.  I am by no means an expert.

Read the "proper casing" thread if you can find it.  Everyone has a different approach, this is what works for me:

I have been cutting my leather the night before I plan to use it.  Then I run it under water for a few minutes on both sides, or soak it for a few minutes.  Just until the bubbles stop coming up from the surface.  Let it sit out to start to dry.  I then put it in a ziploc baggie and into the fridge overnight.  I think that sealing it this way and leaving it for several hours allows the moisture to really take hold and even out through the whole thickness.  Make sure to take it out and let it mostly dry before you are ready to start working it.

That should accomplish two things ... less wrinkling and you should be able to firmly set a 3D stamp with one whack.

The oil sitting on top makes perfect sense for why the picture looks so shiny.  All in all, good job though

Edited December 31, 2016 by cjartist
confusing

[bikermutt07]

And before you make that first whack have a few test pieces cased to figure out your whacking.

Always always have a test piece of the same material to try something on first.

I have a test piece ready for everything, even stitching. The more we learn the less we will need these, but for now (for me) they are a wise investment.