2nd holster project

[CMartin]

Everyone,

2nd project for a 1970,
.357 Colt Python.  One scratch I could not get rid of near the snap on the front side.  Any other feedback is appreciated.  

Thanks

Chris

[CaptQuirk]

That doesn't look too bad, but it is a little... bland? Look at some of the western style holsters, and note how the upper lip has curves around the cylinder and trigger.

[Dwight]

As CaptQuirk said, . . . a little bland.

Bland is fine for a Glock or a Hi Point, . . . for a pistol of this level, . . . it should be in something much more "dignified" so to speak.

In it's day, the Python was THE example of excellent craftsmanship, . . . hand finished by expert Colt gunsmiths.

I had two of them, . . . kick myself for ever even thinking of trading them.

But the holster, . . . on it's own, . . . it's a good serviceable holster from what I could detect.

Your one huge flaw is the placement of the snap.  The cylinder on the weapon will get scratched and gouged by the inside piece of the snap.  

There is a void, . . . so to speak, . . . just below the cylinder, . . . and above the trigger area, . . . put the snap there, . . . should never scratch the gun.

In all honesty, . . . if it were my holster, . . . my gun, . . . I'd re-make the holster, . . . put this one in a drawer as a good memory, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[CaptQuirk]

I don't know if "dignified" is the word I'd use. "Style" and "personality" are the way I would describe a good holster for a revolver. That is why I prefer them above the tactical compact holsters that are so common. But, I have also seen beautiful western style holsters for the .45 1911s.

[CaptQuirk]

I don't know if "dignified" is the word I'd use. "Style" and "personality" are the way I would describe a good holster for a revolver. That is why I prefer them above the tactical compact holsters that are so common. But, I have also seen beautiful western style holsters for the .45 1911s.

[JLSleather]

Yep, me too on the snap position.  The Python is a classic -- somewhat in demand these days.  So you'll want to NOT marr the finish with the snap.  I "get" wanting a strap on it, but.. :

I would either...

1. move the snap to the flat of the frame area, and line the holster (which you could still do at this point), or
2. eliminate the strap, and add a hammer thong (usually latigo lace) to replace it, so the hammer is still retained.

Oh, and you can cut that down in teh back for more room to grip without losing any of the holding area, like this....

Edited January 6, 2017 by JLSleather

[CMartin]

Gents,

Great comments and feedback.  This was my dad's service revolver when he was a detective, so I don't plan on ever parting with it. I also agree that it deserves a holster with a little more style and personality, and I hope to be able to create something like that for it, someday.  JLS,  I like the modifications you have suggested for the top, and can see where my existing snap placement could cause a problem.  Dwight and Captain, I will also take your advice and do a little more background research on this weapons next home.  

What do ya'll recommend be used as a potential liner for future reference?  Also, any supplier references would be great information as well.

Until then,  I will chalk this one up as part of the leather learning curve.  

Thanks again for the great feedback.

Chris

[JLSleather]

Well, just one way o' doin-it.  I made a number of them for that model like this.. but truth is I never was quite "okay" with the design and planned to re-work it (and just aint got there as yet).  Still, the boys what got it, use it and like it, so ....

Anyway, I prefer the snap like this on that one ...

[Dwight]

On 1/6/2017 at 4:31 PM, CMartin said:

What do ya'll recommend be used as a potential liner for future reference?  

If you want a real challenge, . . . it is a take off of a process Katsass (an older user on here) uses for his holsters.

If the Python were mine, . . . I would do one similar to the two pictures below, . . . with something maybe a bit different on the design shield, . . .

I would also line it (Katsass process) with another piece of veggie tan leather.  Each would be 4/5 thickness.

The exterior piece would be a saddle tan or similar color, as well as the design shield, as that is a good color for stamping and tooling.  They would be pre-dyed, prior to assembly, . . . and of course all the tooling and stamping would have to be done.

After dying and stamping, . . . sew the design shield (it also wraps and makes the rear belt tunnel) onto the exterior (contact cement first).

Then cut the lining a bit bigger than the exterior piece, . . . give it a good neatsfoot oil coating, . . . NOT soaking, . . . just a "good" coat.  Allow it to dry for a couple of days, . . . contact cement it to the other piece, . . . fold, mold and sew the rest of it together.

You will get a holster with a fairly firm outside, . . . a "softer" liner to be easy on the weapon's finish, . . . and by building in a thumb break, . . . a really safe holster.

On and off, . . . it would take me at least a month to do one like that, . . . it would be all hand sewn, . . . but that would be "MY" choice for a Python such as your dad's.

You could even put in a facsimile of your dad's department shield as the artwork on the design shield.

May God bless,

Dwight

[CaptQuirk]

@Dwight- Um... the pictures would be worth a thousand words