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Posted

I just received a set of Blanchard pricking irons (10 and 2 tooth) size 9 SPI, and were trying them out on this wallet (design from Ian Atkinson). I used 0.6 mm Tiger thread, and with all layers the wallet measures 4 mm thick. I am punching the holes with a 38 mm (small) awl also from Blanchard.

I am fairly pleased with the stitches on the inside of the wallet (my frontside). However, on the back, they are more irregular. I know I need a lot of practice using the awl to get the angle dead on, but do you see any other issues I ahve to address? I also know that my line is not straight, I will have to practice on that.

From the look of it, some of the stitches seems a bit short on the backside (outside of the wallet). I did not notice this when practicing on a thinner piece of leather. Does 4 mm thickness require fewer stitches per inch?

This is my first project with pricking irons - until now I have used some very cheap chisels. I do think the angle of the holes are much neater, and I did not get so many ugly markings when using the awl as I was hammering the chisel through.

I am very pleased with any sort of feedback!

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Filip Blaauw - Norway
Website: blaauw.me · Instagram: filipbl

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Posted

I would say your work is very good.  Not just the stitching, but looks like you have done a nice job on the cutting and edge finishing too.

You can always find something to critique about hand stitching.  I think the thread size and SPI are fine for that wallet.  Only issue I would be concerned about is the wavy line in the last photo.  It obviously detracts from an otherwise pleasing row of stitching.

Also, you are getting a nice slant on both sides which is hard for some to accomplish.

Many here will be envious of your skills but I respect you wanting to do even better.  Keep practicing with the awl.  And make certain that you maintain even pressure when you pull your stitches tight.  Same thing every time with robotic precision is the key.

great job, keep the projects coming!

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Posted

Oh, one other thing you can experiment with is to use your wing dividers to mark a stitching line on both sides.  That will give you a reference for the exit holes.  This is a faint line, not a groove.  With time it will become unnecessary but you might give it a go to see if that helps.

Posted

It looks pretty great to me. Maybe tap the stitches down a little. That will make them present a little better. Follow Tug's advice above and you should be set.

Can I see some more pictures of this wallet. Does it have a space for bills?

Just when I think I have found the perfect wallet, someone shows up with a better design.

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

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Posted

Looks pretty darn good to me!  I do see a place or two near the bottom center of the lower picture where it looks like the thread may not have pulled into position.  That slant on both sides depends on the thread being in a specific position in the hole and in relation to the other strand.  Once in awhile, they just don't slide past each other right - and I think that's what happened there.

As far as I can tell from the picture, the awl is coming through very nearly the same place with the exception of the corner- which is why that looks a little off.  You likely dropped your hand for those holes, leading to an "uphill" angle and the holes a bit higher on the backside than on the front.  That can also be caused by the leather flopping over a little as you push the awl through.  A backer for thin leather, such as a wine bottle cork can be helpful for that situation. It isn't easy positioning that awl in three dimensions and takes practice.  

Good job!!

Bill

 

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Posted

Thanks guys, very kind words. I appreciate it, but I am at the very beginning of a learning curve, and want to get rid of bad habits from the very start.

Nice tip about a faint reference line on the back. I will try that. I did notice that the leather bulged a bit, so it was difficult to maintain an even angle, specially near the corners. I will experiment with a backer. The pictures shown are taken after I hammered the stitches, so this is as good as is gets for me at this time.

@bikermutt07It does have space for bills. The measurement for the bill pocket is 16 cm, so it should fit your dollar bills. I purchased the template from Ian Atkinson: https://www.etsy.com/listing/186830794/build-along-leather-pattern-2-coin-and and he shows how to make this variant with vertical pockets in this very helpful build-along video: https://youtu.be/pNXfMC0SqP4?t=1h6m46s

Here'a another picture of it. The bill pocket is barely visible at the right edge.

 

IMG_7770.JPG

Filip Blaauw - Norway
Website: blaauw.me · Instagram: filipbl

Posted

Thanks, you're off to a great start.

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

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Posted

Looks great! It just takes practise, but you are well on your way. Some good advice from those comments above. What kind and weight of leather is this? My only suggestion is like Bikermutt said give it a wack to tap the stitches down, that makes them look better.

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Posted

I am using goat leather, 1mm thick

Filip Blaauw - Norway
Website: blaauw.me · Instagram: filipbl

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