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DanielToby

Types of wallet leather?

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Hi everyone, new guy here. Not for nothing, but I usually tend to do a large amount of research before I ask questions but this stumps me. 

Coach, Prada, Michael Kors, Louis Vuitton, they all seem to use a leather stiffness and thickness that's really slim for their card holders and such, I just can't figure out. I just got a ton of samples I ordered from Acadia Leather, most is a good thickness and it's still pretty soft and floppy. Does the edge finishing give it a little more stiffness overall?

I know those upscale brands get their stuff from this upscale tannery in France, I'm sure everything is custom to their clients specs.

So does anyone know where I might be able to get a very good quality American product that has such properties?

men-card-case.jpg

men-card-case-2.jpg

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Oh and chrome tan leather is usually very soft. It what they use for bags and such. The edges can't really be burnished they have to be painted with edge paint or edge kote or the like. And it's always predyed. Not sure if any of this helps.

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I haven't used it yet but you might try Wickett & Craig English Bridle leather. They'll split it down to whatever thickness you want for a fee. Maybe someone else can chime in about how stiff it is. It's American made.

 

http://wickett-craig.com/english-bridle-pricing/

Edited by thefanninator

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Pretty sure that those French hides they use are vegtan just alot different than say HO or WC veg we are all use to. I forget some of the names of those imported leathers (buttero leather comes to mind) but if you want to try US tanneries than a split down bridle/harness/regular veg or one of Horween leather selections would be your primary source. Horween makes some various combination tanned and vegtan leathers you could try. 

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20 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

I use 3 oz veg tan.

IMG_20170102_143906_299.jpg

Very nice products sir. This is the thickness I've been toying with. It seems the finish and type of tanning has a huge impact. High fashion items almost seem like they're made of super thin leather and then inserts for stiffness. Have you ever picked up a Coach wallet at your local mall? The leather is soft, but the construction is stiff, that's the part that gets me. I've also watched tons of videos on high end bags being constructed and the only inserts are typically in the handles and that's it.

16 hours ago, MADMAX22 said:

Pretty sure that those French hides they use are vegtan just alot different than say HO or WC veg we are all use to. I forget some of the names of those imported leathers (buttero leather comes to mind) but if you want to try US tanneries than a split down bridle/harness/regular veg or one of Horween leather selections would be your primary source. Horween makes some various combination tanned and vegtan leathers you could try. 

I would love to use Horween, but it seems it only comes in natural tan colors, I'm looking for exotic colors, blues, oranges, reds, etc.

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18 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

Oh and chrome tan leather is usually very soft. It what they use for bags and such. The edges can't really be burnished they have to be painted with edge paint or edge kote or the like. And it's always predyed. Not sure if any of this helps.

I noticed they use edge coat, I don't have a problem with that, it would save me the burnishing pain (I'm absolutely a failure at it lol).

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Seems really smooth, a pebbled type leather would be better.

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6 minutes ago, DanielToby said:

Seems really smooth, a pebbled type leather would be better.

Just have to keep looking till you find what you like. Wife has Coach,D &B Cath Kids on. And on and on.lol. Saddle soap or gum trag can be a game changer for burnishing. Also sanding the edge before burnishing. Matt.

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Ok, so all in all, what I'm looking to accomplish is the same type of material as the high end outfits use, but sourced in the USA. European style, American made I suppose is what I'm shooting for. Lightly pebbled/textured, nice bright colors (along with the standard black and brown). I have respect for the tan* spectrum of tanning, I understand it has it's place in the high end market as well, but it's very traditional and just not what I'm wanting to work with. I will be incorporating titanium and real carbon fiber "leather" (that's what the call it) into my designs. I'm going for super modern and super clean looks.

I do appreciate the help from all of you thus far! Maybe someone can help bring this in for me for exactly what I'm looking for. Right now as I said, I'm looking at using Acadia Leather https://www.acadialeather.com/ (anyone have any issues with them?) and maybe Waterhouse Leather (http://www.waterhouseleather.com/pebble_grain_cowhide.htm).

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Talk with Springfield leather.  Offer to send the photos that you shared here.  Talk to the owner, Kevin.  Something tells me those are chrome tanned and dry-milled.  Kevin is very friendly.

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1 minute ago, Tugadude said:

Talk with Springfield leather.  Offer to send the photos that you shared here.  Talk to the owner, Kevin.  Something tells me those are chrome tanned and dry-milled.  Kevin is very friendly.

Thank you Tugadude, I appreciate it. Are they high quality?

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Springfield certainly sells some high quality leathers

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Horween does have colored leathers, look at the Essex line I believe it is. Also try talking with the Hide House. They carry a ton of lines of leathers. 

Springfield doesnt carry anything you cant find somewhere else and usually at higher quality and a better price IMHO. Not to mention the fact lots of other places are more squared away as far as fulfilling orders and shipping. 

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That leather looks like it could be Shrunken calf skin.  I think you can get it a www.fineleatherworking.com

They have some wonderful leathers that should meet your requirements.

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Check with Rocky Mountain Supply.  They have some really nice French calf and goat that is veg tan, and light weights

Terry

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In Napa, CA is another supplier, Hide House, who actually is also a major warehouse/distributor to those very high-end designers that you have noted in your original post.  They can be found at The Hide House and if you are a licensed business operator you can apply for their wholesale/designer pricing program.  

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On 1/25/2017 at 3:28 PM, MADMAX22 said:

Horween does have colored leathers, look at the Essex line I believe it is. Also try talking with the Hide House. They carry a ton of lines of leathers. 

Springfield doesnt carry anything you cant find somewhere else and usually at higher quality and a better price IMHO. Not to mention the fact lots of other places are more squared away as far as fulfilling orders and shipping. 

I haven't seen the horween in bright colors like blue and oranges and such though...

17 hours ago, keplerts said:

That leather looks like it could be Shrunken calf skin.  I think you can get it a www.fineleatherworking.com

They have some wonderful leathers that should meet your requirements.

The bright colors I'm looking at are only available in goat in that's site.

13 hours ago, terrymac said:

Check with Rocky Mountain Supply.  They have some really nice French calf and goat that is veg tan, and light weights

Terry

Thank you will do.

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10 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

In Napa, CA is another supplier, Hide House, who actually is also a major warehouse/distributor to those very high-end designers that you have noted in your original post.  They can be found at The Hide House and if you are a licensed business operator you can apply for their wholesale/designer pricing program.  

I will also have a look at this, thank you much.

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2 hours ago, DanielToby said:

I haven't seen the horween in bright colors like blue and oranges and such though..

Well have you tried calling Horween (Tannery Row is the retail site) and inquiring, or shot an email? 

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On 1/28/2017 at 9:41 PM, MADMAX22 said:

Well have you tried calling Horween (Tannery Row is the retail site) and inquiring, or shot an email? 

No I haven't, thanks for the name, I'll get on it.

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On 1/29/2017 at 11:45 AM, darkmatter35 said:

Also ask Hide House for their catalog, has their hole line of leathers in it.

Looks like they have what I might want as far as weight and color, thanks! Sent them an email to see if I could buy some samples.

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i bought some horween seconds from Mavrickleathercompany.com beautiful stuff!! check them out they have various colors all the time and the 3-5oz I bought is very supple, and soft.. but when you sew it together it does gain a rigidity that bodes well for these. I just made a few and I am 100% sold on this leather for all wallets now.. 

IMG_8504.JPG

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