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catskin

Clicker, Have you heard of it?

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I got a look at a clicker press yesterday  Here is what it says on the plates.  

            sold by

  Bogle - Greenwell

  machine corporation

 Leather Working machinery

Dies + supplies

 Phone 214-262-8652

 3100 E. Main St.  Grand Prairie  Texas

 

 the other plate says

  Type  36 L

 serial No 380  2324

motor V     220/440

 connected  V 220/ 60Hz

  made in Italy

 

 I am wondering if any of you have or are familiar with this type of clicker.

I understand that it is wired for 220 volt and hooking it up should not be a problem.

It has been sitting outside covered with a tarp so will it likely be damaged from moisture.

I did not find any rating on it as to tons. The table is about 20 by 30 inches. ( this is a guess ) the whole machine measures about 26 by 52, this I measured within an inch or 2.   Can anyone give me any more information on these machines?  For example is this company still in business? Does anyone have parts if needed?   Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

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From the lack of replies I tend to assume these clickers are either very rare or were no good and so now are obsolete. There might be or have been a name on then that I missed seeing but if somebody had or has one they likely would have noticed the MADE in ITALY on it.

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Check with Campbell Randall - they might have an idea. They carry some brands from Italy.

 

https://www.campbell-randall.com

Edited by thefanninator

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1 hour ago, thefanninator said:

Check with Campbell Randall - they might have an idea. They carry some brands from Italy.

 

https://www.campbell-randall.com

Thank you I will check with them. I am considering buying this clicker and was wondering if anybody knew anything about it.  Am I right thinking an older machine made in Italy might be better made then some of the older Chinese stuff/

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N star, Thanks for your reply,  No it has the table wider from front to back then from side to side. And the head is just a few  (about 2 inch's ) smaller then the table.  And the body ( lower frame ) is the same width as the table. It has 2 red buttons on the head that I think activate it. The head is the same color as the body.  If I end up buying it I might find a name on it some place. I really did not have much time to look it over good.  At the time I was not real interested in buying it was more interested in trying to help the lady get it usable for herself. but now she thinks she wants to sell it.

Does anyone know if Bogle- Greenwell is still in business/  I read that Rea passed away and that his widow offered the business for sale.  I went to the website and sent a message but got no reply and all the links to parts and catalog show a message can't be found.

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Maybe when I get it completely uncovered I will find a name on it and that could help. It might also share the same brand of electric and hydraulic parts with other brands.  I am hoping I can get it for a price that reflects the fact that it is not a common brand.  Hard to run back and forth to check things since it is 140 miles away.

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You are right about parts availability!!! Unless it is hydraulic parts I think I might be able to adapt parts. I've been fixing things some said couldn't be done off and on for 50 years.

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I know nothing about them but Bogle-Greenwell is still in Texas and still in business. The website has the current phone number, it looks like the area code has changed and the number you posted is now the fax number.

http://bogle-greenwell.com/

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2 hours ago, Ken G said:

I know nothing about them but Bogle-Greenwell is still in Texas and still in business. The website has the current phone number, it looks like the area code has changed and the number you posted is now the fax number.

http://bogle-greenwell.com/

I have been to that site but nothing seems to work.  Catalog comes up can't be found.  Contact gets no response.  Just wondered if they sold after Rea died?

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Not closed

Rhea's son is trying to get the company back up and running.  Shop Talk had a little article on Boggle-Greenwell a few moths ago after Rhea passed on.

glenn

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I spoke to someone a year or so ago at Bogle-Greenwell about my sewing machine, it was an older gentleman.  He was not able to help much, it seems they don't do much servicing, or didn't at the time.  It appeared as tho they mostly rebranded imported machines, and I was able to determine a close enough match to other machines to get parts.  Perhaps someone there can help you with that.  A photo would go a long ways towards someone here recognizing the machine...

YinTx

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I have a couple of pictures but not being very good with computers Have not been able to get them posted yet.

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Make sure it is single phase 220volt. Unless your shop has 3phase power, then it would not matter. I would make sure before purchase since a phase converter would eat up a good deal in a heartbeat. If you can see a motor, it should have a data plate on it stating "ph" for phase. It will read PH1 or PH3.

At least that's how I understand it. I'm not an electrician but did a stint working on 3ph high voltage underground lines back in the day. Now all I know about electricity is "you don't want to get it on you." But I digress....

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Axeman Yes you are right. I looked on the plate on the outside of the body it reads as posted in my first post here.  That makes me believe it is wired for 220v 1 phase.  Is there such a thing as 220v 3 phase?

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Yes, there is a LOW 3 Phase that is 203v. with a HIGH that is 230v. Depending on your load those voltages will vary, especially when a motor starts from a dead stop. Also, 440v 3 Phase, you don't want to go there for your equipment. lol

 

Ferg

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Tanks for all your responses. It looks like the deal is going to go ahead.   I will just have to wait and see when I get it home. what it will take to get it going.

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If it was ever set up at the location you are buying it at. Just ask the owner if it is 3ph or single. He/she should know. If it is a SUPER buy it shouldnt matter. You can get it going one way or another. just takes money and know how. 

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On 30/01/2017 at 4:17 AM, catskin said:

Thank you I will check with them. I am considering buying this clicker and was wondering if anybody knew anything about it.  Am I right thinking an older machine made in Italy might be better made then some of the older Chinese stuff/

In the UK Italian made items have a very poor reputation for their electrics.

I've not had a single item made in Italy which I've not had to re-wire up - from new.

Thus I'd advise you to check the electricals over very carefully

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1 hour ago, Axeman said:

If it was ever set up at the location you are buying it at. Just ask the owner if it is 3ph or single. He/she should know. If it is a SUPER buy it shouldnt matter. You can get it going one way or another. just takes money and know how. 

The problem is that the person I am buying from never used it, knows nothing about it.  She bought out a shop and it was part of the deal but she never used it.  So I am mostly on my own.  It will not be the first time I   Stuck my neck out so to speak!!!!!

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I got this press home now and my problem is that the seller has not found the book. And I can't seem to get any responses from Bogle Greenwell or anywhere else about buying a book. If any of you have a book or books that pretain to the set up and use of this press I would gladly pay for you to copy and send them to me. Right now I have trouble figuring out which wires are to be live and which is the ground. there are 4 wires I found which is the ground to the frame It is black with a yellow stripe the others are black, blue and brown.  How can I tell which 2 connect to the energized wires.

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9 minutes ago, catskin said:

I got this press home now and my problem is that the seller has not found the book. And I can't seem to get any responses from Bogle Greenwell or anywhere else about buying a book. If any of you have a book or books that pretain to the set up and use of this press I would gladly pay for you to copy and send them to me. Right now I have trouble figuring out which wires are to be live and which is the ground. there are 4 wires I found which is the ground to the frame It is black with a yellow stripe the others are black, blue and brown.  How can I tell which 2 connect to the energized wires.

What is the info on the motor nameplate?  Would help to know if it is three phase or not.  Sounds like the cordset is using European wire colours.  What kind of plug was on the end, or is it supposedly setup to be wired directly into a box?

Tom

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1 hour ago, northmount said:

What is the info on the motor nameplate?  Would help to know if it is three phase or not.  Sounds like the cordset is using European wire colours.  What kind of plug was on the end, or is it supposedly setup to be wired directly into a box?

Tom

I have not seem the name plate on the motor since it is mounted inside directly to the pump.  As noted in the first post it looks like it is 220 single phase.  There is no plug on it. And the wire colors are not what I usually see here in Canada.  Here they would likely be black (live ) red (live ) white ( ground ) green ( grounded to frame ) this one on this machine is black with a yellow stripe.  So the wire colors are likely European style. Would there be a way of testing with a multi meter with the switch on and off to tell witch wires are to be the live 2?  I think I got a pdf attached that will show the wiring but how do I know by the letters what color the wires are?

F36.pdf

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4 hours ago, catskin said:

I have not seem the name plate on the motor since it is mounted inside directly to the pump.  As noted in the first post it looks like it is 220 single phase.  There is no plug on it. And the wire colors are not what I usually see here in Canada.  Here they would likely be black (live ) red (live ) white ( ground ) green ( grounded to frame ) this one on this machine is black with a yellow stripe.  So the wire colors are likely European style. Would there be a way of testing with a multi meter with the switch on and off to tell witch wires are to be the live 2?  I think I got a pdf attached that will show the wiring but how do I know by the letters what color the wires are?

F36.pdf

The diagram on page 13 of the pdf is for a three phase motor.  Item 1 is a manual switch.  Item 2 is a thermal overload breaker. When you hook up a 3 phase motor, you hook each of the phase connections to the 3 phase supply.  Then do a bump test to see if the motor rotation is correct.  If it is not, then you reverse any 2 of the 3 connections to change the direction of rotation.  You can prove the continuity with a multimeter set on resistance (ohms).  Resistance will be less than 500 ohms.  Turn switch 1 on.  Test the resistance across the wires.  Clip one lead from your multimeter to one of the wires and keep it on that wire.  Test the resistance to the other 2 wires.  If there is continuity in both of these tests, and the resistance values are relatively the same, you have a 3 phase motor.

Tom

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Here is what I found,  Being rather busy today I did not get to opening the plate to see the motor to read the phase.  But when I used the meter on the 3 wires between the black and blue it showed continuity. between black and brown none and between blue and brown none.  So since the plate on the outside says connected V  220/ 60 Hz  I do believe that it is most likely 220 single phase.  And that likely the 2 wires ( black and blue ) that show continuity are likely the 2 that I will need to energize for it to run. The book that the PDF was made from  showed 3 phase wiring. It is not the book that belongs to THIS press.  Any other help will be greatly appreciated.  I DO NOT want to hook it up wrong and burn up the circuit board.

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On 2017-02-20 at 5:09 PM, catskin said:

Here is what I found,  Being rather busy today I did not get to opening the plate to see the motor to read the phase.  But when I used the meter on the 3 wires between the black and blue it showed continuity. between black and brown none and between blue and brown none.  So since the plate on the outside says connected V  220/ 60 Hz  I do believe that it is most likely 220 single phase.  And that likely the 2 wires ( black and blue ) that show continuity are likely the 2 that I will need to energize for it to run. The book that the PDF was made from  showed 3 phase wiring. It is not the book that belongs to THIS press.  Any other help will be greatly appreciated.  I DO NOT want to hook it up wrong and burn up the circuit board.

What was the resistance (ohms) between the black and blue?  I assume you had the power switch turned on?  If so, the only choice is black and blue for 220 VAC.  From the 3 phase circuit diagram, it appears the hydraulic pump runs continuously and that the push buttons (item 9) and possibly microswitch 8 on the handle activates the solenoid (10) to switch the hydraulic valve to provide force to actuate the clicker ram.    Switch 8 is the end switch to stop the ram at end of stroke.

On your home/shop wiring, the 3 conductors from the breaker panel are typically red, white and black plus bare ground.  White is neutral and is not needed for 220 VAC.  Red is 110, white is 0, black is 110.  So the voltage between black and red is 220 VAC. 

Tom

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