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DanielToby

Leather paint?

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Hey people!

What do you all use for leather PAINT, not stain. I was thinking of adding some designs to my wallet designs and wondering if there is a good, wear resilient leather paint, something probably comparable to plastisol screen printing inks?

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33 minutes ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

Angelus paint in multiple thinned coats. 

^ this

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We've used the acrylics from Hobby Lobby with no issues.  I have a key fob that my wife painted a dragon on using the $1 a bottle stuff. I've carried it in my pocket daily for 2 years and  it still looks good.

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I have used acrylic paint, no specific brand preferred (my artist wife has a bunch of various paint colors and brands available). I prefer dyes, but when you need white, you have to use paint for it. 
I haven't had any issues with flaking or peeling, but the painted pieces aren't wallets that would rub constantly on cloth. 
I have some wear on a rapier hanger which has gold paint on parts of  it, but that's to be expected since it is part of a sword belt that is worn while rapier fencing.
Have a good flexible sealant over the acrylic, and that will help. 

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Wow, my wife the art teacher has tons of quality acrylics.

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On 2/1/2017 at 3:37 PM, JerseyFirefighter said:

Angelus paint in multiple thinned coats. 

 

23 hours ago, Colt W Knight said:

^ this

I've seen those, making sure it's the good stuff before I pull the trigger on ordering them, thanks!

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21 hours ago, TomG said:

We've used the acrylics from Hobby Lobby with no issues.  I have a key fob that my wife painted a dragon on using the $1 a bottle stuff. I've carried it in my pocket daily for 2 years and  it still looks good.

 

21 hours ago, DJole said:

I have used acrylic paint, no specific brand preferred (my artist wife has a bunch of various paint colors and brands available). I prefer dyes, but when you need white, you have to use paint for it. 
I haven't had any issues with flaking or peeling, but the painted pieces aren't wallets that would rub constantly on cloth. 
I have some wear on a rapier hanger which has gold paint on parts of  it, but that's to be expected since it is part of a sword belt that is worn while rapier fencing.
Have a good flexible sealant over the acrylic, and that will help. 

Interesting, I'll have to put some through the paces I suppose, I have so good stuff from my painting days not that long ago, I'll try it. Thanks!

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I've used common Liquitex acrylics (available in almost any craft or art supply store) with good results.  My wife once made a wallet for herself with a carved and painted butterfly on the front.  It's been through the washing machine twice and the paint is still holding up very well, not showing much wear and is completely useable.

Bob

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Even cheap 1$ a bottle stuff available at walmart will work on leather. Its just more time consuming and requires some extra steps.

For example,

VanFlowersStrap2A_zps8f2db16c.jpg

I used cheaper/craftsstore brand acrylics for a while, and when I used them I would have thin it with water and apply lots of thin coats to get adhesion and solid colors. Angelus on the other hand, I can use straight from the bottle, apply 1-2 coats and be done. The bottles have brushes built into the cap, and colors cover better, adhere nicely, and look more vibrant, IMHO.

Took me a lot more work to get the results I wanted from craft store acrylic. Thats why I prefer Angelus. A bottle goes a long way in the leather craft world, so the cost isn't a big issue to me. I also really like using Angelus in my airbrush. I get great coverage with thin airbrush coats. I use it to recolor boots, leather hats, leather jackets, etc. and the color doesn't crack or flake off.

Just like painting anything, THIN coats is the way to go.

 

Edited by Colt W Knight

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On ‎2‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 2:29 PM, Bob Blea said:

I've used common Liquitex acrylics (available in almost any craft or art supply store) with good results.  My wife once made a wallet for herself with a carved and painted butterfly on the front.  It's been through the washing machine twice and the paint is still holding up very well, not showing much wear and is completely useable.

Bob

Thank you!

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I use Golden brand heavy body acrylic paints.    Thinned to the consistency of condensed milk.. I paint 3 coats leaving each coat to dry for a few hours or more.  Finish off with a good quality acrylic sealer.   

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I use both Angelus and Eco-Flo paints, and then Liquitex acrylics as-needed. Multiple thin layers as others have said, just like painting canvas or any other application, but I also rarely use the color as-is. No trouble mixing colors between brands. All of the above are acrylics and can be thinned with just water. 

I prefer to finish with Saddle-Lac, but if especially you're using a brush-on top coat, you'll want to give yourself AT LEAST 48-72 hours of dry time before the topcoat. 

Marked-6529.jpg?format=1500w

Marked-6527.jpg

Edited by Beret

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Thanks for the info!    Yes I brush on the top coat and really don't like using Resolene.    Cut 50/50 w water or even 60/40.     It can be hit n miss.  

Shud try something else.  Saddle lac does it need to be cut first?   Do you spray your top coats or brush.    Thx

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9 hours ago, BJP said:

Thanks for the info!    Yes I brush on the top coat and really don't like using Resolene.    Cut 50/50 w water or even 60/40.     It can be hit n miss.  

Shud try something else.  Saddle lac does it need to be cut first?   Do you spray your top coats or brush.    Thx

I use aerosol saddle-lac sprayed as-is, in a number of VERY light mistings instead of one or two heavier coats. That way I can keep the finish more even and matte and extend the longevity of the topcoat.

I've found through experience that brushing on a resolene top coat really runs the risk of affecting my paint and antiquing, even after a lengthy and adequate dry time. I won't go that route anymore, even though I prefer the matte level of a resolene based finish. 

Edited by Beret

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Beret... Do you use an air brush filled with saddle lac or does saddle lac come in a spray can type aerosol?  ... Thanks so much.  

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On 2/1/2017 at 3:37 PM, JerseyFirefighter said:

Angelus paint in multiple thinned coats. 

@byggyns what are you using to thin your Angelus paints? All of the larger sizes (above 1 oz) of their 2 thin product seem to be sold out and I'm wondering if there's another product I could use while waiting for 2 thin to come back in stock.

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10 hours ago, strathmoredesigns said:

@byggyns what are you using to thin your Angelus paints? All of the larger sizes (above 1 oz) of their 2 thin product seem to be sold out and I'm wondering if there's another product I could use while waiting for 2 thin to come back in stock.

Angelus is an acrylic - You can just thin with water. 

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I like to use distilled water for any thinning of water based paints & dyes. That way you always get a consistent result, regardless of what minerals and chemicals are in your tap water.

I'm a fountain pen collector & I always use distilled water for ink dilution and mixing. Some chemicals in the water can cause unintended chemical reactions with the ink, which can damage fountain pens. So, I apply the same principle to dyes and paints.

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I wondered about the purity of the water, thanks for that tip!

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I really like using the Angelus 2-thin thinner when I am airbrushing Angelus on something like a coat, cowboy boots, or a purse. Seems to flow  out of the gun better(probably has a retarder to keep it from drying to quickly)

. For simply coloring or hand painting, I use distilled water. 

 

Edited by Colt W Knight

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On 3/6/2017 at 9:14 PM, Colt W Knight said:

I really like using the Angelus 2-thin thinner when I am airbrushing Angelus on something like a coat, cowboy boots, or a purse. Seems to flow  out of the gun better(probably has a retarder to keep it from drying to quickly)

. For simply coloring or hand painting, I use distilled water. 

 

I've got some 2-thin on the way. I'm excited to try it with my Angelus paints in my airbrush. Have you ever airbrushed Angelus brand dyes? If so, did you cut them and with what?

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No, I have only airbrushed Fiebings oil and conventional dyes. I have sprayed them full strength and thinned at various levels with alcohol. They spray no problem withere my Iwata brush, but clog in my cheapo brushes. 

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Good to know. I might give it a go, I have an Iwata as well.

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