So? how do you Gusset!

[RKCrowe]

I recently made a bag with gussets of different lengths, on each side of the middle divide. Two things occurred: 1) though I measured several times one of the gussets, the wider one, ended up too long at the top. 2) I had to fight to get the gussets around the bottom curves transition to the sides. One gusset about 3.5cm, the other 8cm wide.  Both from 3-5 oz. veg hide.

the finished bag, now referred to as the "prototype " for the "real" bag to be made, the slimmer gusset side was a pocket for my iPad, the iPad sat above the top of the pocket I'm sure due to the bottom corners ending away from the edge, pushing the iPad up. The other side, was better but the gusset tops finished higher up the bag and had to be trimmed.

So, if you please; How do you measure your gussets, considering the corners radius?  If you require a thicker leather for a gusset, do you skive the edges? The length of the gusset or just the corner area?  Are multi-piece gussets easier to get around the corner than a single piece gusset?  And    What techniques do you employ to get the gusset in place and ready for stitching?

 

Thank you

Rkcrowe

[Stetson912]

Do you have any of stohlmans case making books? I'd recommend them. 

It really depends on the project, you could take a strap of leather you are using for the gusset and wrap it around the main panel of the bag to measure it. 

I would use a fabric tape and measure around the panel and then make a single gusset a little longer to trim later. 

A three piece gusset is might be easier. You could attach one side at a time and then you can stitch the sides to the bottom after. 

Skiving thick leather would help you bend over the edges 90degrees to attach to the bag face, in this case I would do the whole length of the gusset. As for the corners, if it's a real sharp corner you can't use a single gusset, but for round gentle corners you just have to stick it out and bend it around and try and keep it in place before stitching it. I recommend binder clips or contact cement or basting tape. Hope it helps. 

[JackWack]

On 3/22/2017 at 9:51 AM, RKCrowe said:

I recently made a bag with gussets of different lengths, on each side of the middle divide. Two things occurred: 1) though I measured several times one of the gussets, the wider one, ended up too long at the top. 2) I had to fight to get the gussets around the bottom curves transition to the sides. One gusset about 3.5cm, the other 8cm wide.  Both from 3-5 oz. veg hide.

the finished bag, now referred to as the "prototype " for the "real" bag to be made, the slimmer gusset side was a pocket for my iPad, the iPad sat above the top of the pocket I'm sure due to the bottom corners ending away from the edge, pushing the iPad up. The other side, was better but the gusset tops finished higher up the bag and had to be trimmed.

So, if you please; How do you measure your gussets, considering the corners radius?  If you require a thicker leather for a gusset, do you skive the edges? The length of the gusset or just the corner area?  Are multi-piece gussets easier to get around the corner than a single piece gusset?  And    What techniques do you employ to get the gusset in place and ready for stitching?

 

Thank you

Rkcrowe

Hey Crowe lemme tell you something: Gussets SUCK!  Haha!  There are a lot of different techniques, they all have their pluses and minuses, tradeoffs if you get me.  Being an experienced leather crafter is knowing when to use each technique to maximize a benefit, and limit a liability, but end of day, gussets are a pain in the butt, no way around it.  What ever you do, I'd suggest cut the gussets larger, score the flesh side where they should line up, and work to that position, but understand that when the rubber hits the road, or the leather hits contact cement, things are going to get a little squirrely, and you'll likely have to adjust.

 

Sorry I don't have the time, or the depth of experience to explain each technique, but I'd do as Stetson told you, find some printed resources and study them, try test projects, away from actual finished pieces, so you can gain some experience on the little details that make all the difference.  Also, there are seemingly endless ways to skin a cat (or a cow for that matter), no single resource will contain every technique, so just keep learning.  Leather work is very simple and very complex, you can have five tools that do the same thing, but are slightly better at an aspect of that thing so find use in particular cases, and you'll have one tool that will be used in five completely different applications!  It is madness in the leatherworld, I'm finding. 

 

I really wish there was a solid, structured, and free leatherworking class/series on YouTube.  But I haven't found it, but I have learned a lot from tutorials, but also promotional brand videos you can catch little details, little tricks and hacks that a particular house/shop has employed to solve little issues.  For example, was just watching a promo video for a high end bag maker, and noticed in the back of this shot, the walking foot of the sewing machine had a fine calf wrap to diminish the footprint on softer leathers.  I've never seen anyone talk about that as a solution, but just caught it in the background.  As I learn more, tutorials and other leather based vids on youtube will open up, I'll catch more details because I've confronted similar issues.  I've watch certain videos literally 10+ times over a year, and learned new things from each watching, catching things that I missed because I hadn't experienced a particular issue.

 

And one more time, don't neglect those print resources.  Some things have changed totally in the leather world, like cnc robo leather cutters, but in many ways, tools that were made and designed 200 years ago are the most elegant and perfect solution to achieving an effect in leather, so the printed material about those tools and the application of those tools to leather work is still very much relevant.

 

Sorry couldn't be more helpful, but I'm literally speed typing and I'm searching for info on a problem I'm facing!

 

And don't forget, gussets suck!

[Tugadude]

Yes, measure well but leave a little extra length as Stetson912 suggested.  Personally, I rarely glue gussets but prefer binder clips.  Works perfectly for me.  I also pre-punch my stitching holes.  Not had any issues with them lining up.  

[Huginn]

Hi guys. 

I seem to not have any issues with measuring the gussets. i do the math and measure with tailor's tape. My issue is attaching the gusset and adding the wholes. 

Tuga, could you be more detailed in how you pre punch the holes?

[Grumpymann]

I can't help with the length issue but I do have a trick I have used or years and it rarely lets me down when it comes to lining up the front and the back equally. In the patterns I have drawn a line dividing the piece in half and in quarters. I transfer those marks to every piece in a discrete place. I divide the Gusset in half making a mark and I sew one side starting from the midline (Center of the piece doing only the LEFT side) I sew up one side and THEN the other. This allows me to make any lateral adjustments to the pattern (such as the placements of attachments like pockets or rings) and or the stitch line.

But as far as length I have one of those flexible rulers measure add an inch and cut back what I do not use. BUT this is really useless because I end up trimming different lengths on even sides any way. So ... just estimate add 3 to 4 inches and trim it back.

[RKCrowe]

Thank you for the help. I did go back to my printed materials, Al Stohlman and Valerie Michael. They advise gouging, dampening and pre-forming the gusset. Also, Valerie indicates to use a 3-piece gusset for more square corners and one piece gusset for round bags.

 There is always a little gem to find in the printed material!

thanks again to everyone.

Richard

 

[RKCrowe]

Hey Jackwack,

I agree, but..." person who can do gusset, can do anything!"

[Tugadude]

For a simple, single gusset I make sure it is a little longer than necessary to begin.  I then use my chisel to pre-punch holes on both sides of the gusset, lapping one tooth over the edge for judging spacing. I do the same on the front and back panels.  I typically put a needle through the first holes temporarily and then use small binder clips down the edges.  I then stitch all around to the other side and then trim off the excess gusset.  Works good for me, is quick and saves glue mess.  Keep in mind I typically max out at 5-6 oz. leather on my bags, so flexibility isn't a huge issue.