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dikman

Table type for a cylinder arm machine?

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I have a Pfaff 335 which is mounted on a conventional table, which makes it look like there's a lot of wasted space. I've been looking at some of the minimalist-type tables that the Cowboy-type cylinder arms etc use and wondered what are the pros and cons of using this type of table? It would certainly have a smaller footprint and would be practical to fit wheels to and make it somewhat moveable. Could be an interesting project.

Do you folks who use these tables find they have any serious disadvantages?

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Im not sure on which descript :rolleyes: 

in a mobile table im only recalling the typical 4500 stands. On some other ones with top that has a center open design i can see them being easily mobile.  Myself struggle with to many seats and heights so try to keep my ocd pattern the same with machine setup. 

Floyd

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I am planning on building a similar small table as my 441 for my 153w so I can get it in operation. Ill make it a little more stable then  the 441 table though. There are two types of 441 tables I have scene, the one with the square post that bolts directly to the base and the one that has the welded angle base attachment. The direct bolt on one is a little rocky IMHO and if you got a wheel stuck or weren't careful Im pretty sure it could tip over when moving it. 

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I am too in the need of more space, so i am currently trying to build a custom iron stand similar to dikman's picture of a cowboy setup on my friend's metal workshop. I'd like to buy one initially, but no sewing machine store here has them on stock, some of them even barely know about table set up like that :lol:

Leather sewing machine business in Indonesia a bit slow i think, most of leather shops here are using "minimalist" set up and get "creative" trying to squeeze out more from their simple tools / machinery. 

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Madmax, I too thought that the single central support could be a little wobbly, unless it was made particularly thick! I have a spare set of legs from a table and was toying with the idea of using them to make a narrow version of a "standard" table. It wouldn't be quite as compact as the Cowboy table but should be more stable. Failing that, making one with four vertical posts, one in each corner, might be another option, although making something like that with adjustable height might be a bit of a problem.

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I have had the same concern about the support on some of those. Particularity the Cowboy CB-4500 because I'm going to make the trip over there very soon to purchase one. I've heard they are surprisingly sturdy despite the appearance.     

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This is what I currently have, and seems like a lot of wasted space (at least for what I do).

58d98f82c36b0_Pfaff4a.jpg.81ef35e4509aaf11ebe47ff0c1fea4a7.jpg

I guess the simplest option would be to cut the table back to the actual leg width. This will reduce the width by 14" to 32". Next option is cut and weld the two horizontal metal bars to reduce the width even further. Either way is going to be a lot less work than building a new table.

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1 hour ago, dikman said:

I guess the simplest option would be to cut the table back to the actual leg width. This will reduce the width by 14" to 32". Next option is cut and weld the two horizontal metal bars to reduce the width even further. Either way is going to be a lot less work than building a new table.

I did that for my 111w table since I am not making sails and stuff, it works pretty darn good. 

One thing I will do in the future is the same thing but put a removable extension piece so when I dont want an extra 2 feet I put it away on a shelf. 

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Snip: One thing I will do in the future is the same thing but put a removable extension piece so when I dont want an extra 2 feet I put it away on a shelf. 

Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing.

Tom

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1 hour ago, northmount said:

Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing.

Tom

+1

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I have a PFAFF 335. I use a table like this and a detachable flat bed accessory made by Uwe. Works well. I have the open space under the arm for making bags. When I need a flat bed the Uwe one attaches in seconds.

Chuck

table.jpeg

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2 hours ago, northmount said:

Snip: One thing I will do in the future is the same thing but put a removable extension piece so when I dont want an extra 2 feet I put it away on a shelf. 

Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing.

Tom

Or that, only issue is Im a bigger guy and my left leg sticks over where the drop leaf would normally hang on that style. 

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Once I got the idea into my head, I chopped the table! Took just under 2 hrs, so a fairly easy job.

58d9ea92a5a21_Pfaff5a.jpg.83d1ace819b0b5de2adf38b21894950e.jpg

Only downside is I lost my parts drawer, but I can live with that. I could put in a cutout, like in Chuck's photo above, and perhaps cut off a couple of inches or so from the back so it's not quite so deep, but at this stage I'm happy with just the smaller size. If I decide to keep it as is I might fit some beading around the edges, just to make it look neater (the front laminate was missing when I bought it).

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1 hour ago, dikman said:

Once I got the idea into my head, I chopped the table! Took just under 2 hrs, so a fairly easy job.

58d9ea92a5a21_Pfaff5a.jpg.83d1ace819b0b5de2adf38b21894950e.jpg

Only downside is I lost my parts drawer, but I can live with that. I could put in a cutout, like in Chuck's photo above, and perhaps cut off a couple of inches or so from the back so it's not quite so deep, but at this stage I'm happy with just the smaller size. If I decide to keep it as is I might fit some beading around the edges, just to make it look neater (the front laminate was missing when I bought it).

I did that with my flatbed, and was about to do the same with my Juki cylinder.    The thing about all that surface space is that I keep sweeping things off the table when sewing a belt or rifle scabbard.   I also considered cutting down the Juki table frame to make it even narrower, but that seemed an awful lot of metal cutting.

I then had a cunning plan.    I have just bought a folding workbench (rated at 200kg), and plan to remove the wooden surface from the workbench.   With the 'jaws' opened as far as possible, I'll bolt on the greatly cut down sewing machine tabletop.   That way the only major setup will be the footpedals, and I already have a good idea about how they will be fitted.

If it all works, yippeee!!   If not, I'll move to plan B (whatever that is).

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Sounds like a plan (I think), LD. Post some photos if it works. And yes, cutting and welding the bars to narrow the table seemed like too much trouble.

One problem I've found with having "normal" size tables is that I keep piling stuff on them when I'm not using them!!!!!!!!!

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7 minutes ago, dikman said:

Tne problem I've found with having "normal" size tables is that I keep piling stuff on them when I'm not using them!!!!!!!!!

That is sadly the fate of all flat surfaces

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Been busy making a table today, as I managed to get a big slab of granite for a new stamping surface.  

I've also added a very poor picture of my Juki cylinder arm table made from a fold up workbench.   No doubt some will think the pedals are in a weird position, but being a shortstop, they feel really good to use.

sorry about mess, just finished building stuff and not had time to clean up yet.

IMG_1614.JPG

IMG_1615.JPG

Edited by LumpenDoodle2

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Here's one with wheels that works with a bench stool standing or sitting.

 

IMG_4730.JPG.c558becab23956dc487bcda8447112a8.JPG

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LD, a pretty compact solution, all that weight should make it quite stable. Mess? What mess?;)

Evo, that is also an interesting stand. Great solutions, people, I love seeing what others come up with.

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The only problem I've had (if you can call it a problem), is if I'm winding a bobbin, and give it wellie, the stand will shake.   There again, at top speed, the original table shoogled a bit too.  

I can live with that, as it has gained me enough room in my minuscule workshop for a good sized storage unit (courtesy of Heart of House Tollerton kitchen trolly, with little baskets underneath for my webbing).

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This is what I currently have, and seems like a lot of wasted space (at least for what I do).

58d98f82c36b0_Pfaff4a.jpg.81ef35e4509aaf11ebe47ff0c1fea4a7.jpg

I guess the simplest option would be to cut the table back to the actual leg width. This will reduce the width by 14" to 32". Next option is cut and weld the two horizontal metal bars to reduce the width even further. Either way is going to be a lot less work than building a new table.

 

DSC_0059.JPG

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I do like that single pedestal stand.   I'm interested in how the motor will be mounted.

Oh, and I've added a picture of my finished table (I even hoovered special).

 

IMG_1616.JPG

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