Before I jump in the deep end...

[kaneda2033]

Hello all! I am here to ask for help narrowing down my choice of leather sewing machine.

Please allow me to explain my needs, and also offer the disclaimer that I definitely don't know all of what I'm talking about. My first passion is music, which means I have a lot of time for my second passion, which is leather. I'll make anything anyone asks me to, as long as it is within my abilities. I want to be able to easily make all sorts of garments, everything from pants and shirts to full bodysuits. I already do a lot of saddle stitch for making pet supplies, straps for cameras, wallets, and anything like that. I've even had friends ask me to make leather intimate stuff like corsets and the only reason I said not right now is I don't have a machine for putting together bigger projects like that, and no way am I hand sewing large, complex patterns and designs. 

I know that a good leatherworker likely will have more than one machine. However, as this is going to be my first real machine, I feel like I should be getting the one that can do the most all around work. I've been researching, asking questions, contacting manufacturers for a long time and have finally narrowed it down to basically one or two models over a few different manufacturers. I also know that everyone might have a different opinion but that most of these machines are on the same level and can't really go wrong with most of them...but still, I like to see what others say. 

The main piece of advice I have gotten so far is a flatbed compound walking foot machine for light to medium weight material. I mainly use garment leathers and thickness isn't usually much more than a few layers of chap leather, but wouldn't mind being able to sew through thicker, sturdier leather as well. Maybe 2-2.5 oz at most? Here is what I am looking at so far (my price limit is ideally $1500, but I'm reasonably flexible)...

Artisan 1797 AB LTHR

Consew 206 RB-5 

Techsew 1460 OR 1660 (Does anyone know if the 1660 Pro is worth the extra money?)

I want to be able to do some things with shape at some point, but know I probably need a cylinder arm machine for that. I have looked at the Artisan 335 B for that option, and briefly spoke to Jerry at Artisan about that machine...would that be a viable option for that "first machine a leather worker should have" because it has the "flatbed worktable" option, which is just a smaller table that sits on the larger table? I already assume I am going to basically get a no on that question. I have been told numerous times to start with a flatbed compound etc....

If there are any other machines that I should be looking at based on what I listed above, I am more than open to suggestions. Also, feel free to ask any more questions that might help decide. Thank you everyone in advance. It kind of seems like all any of the machines I have on my final list are fine choices, but I'd like to hear other people's experiences with any of them. Thanks again!

Aaron

 

Edited May 26, 2017 by kaneda2033

[bikermutt07]

I am not a sewing machine guy yet. But I have done some research myself. The 206 RB is a work horse for thinner goods. However, doing clothing you may want to look at the cowboy 227r or the newer 341 cylinder arm machines. The 341 is the same machine as the 227 but runs a larger bobbin. 

You are correct about most people running more than one machine.

I am planning on one of the above machines coupled with a cowboy 4500 for thicker stuff.

Most smaller machines run up to about 5\16 thickness and most large machines are good for 1\2 to 3\4 thickness.

Some even run something like a cowboy 3200 to fill the gap in the middle.

I'm not familiar with all the machines you mentioned , but the experts love these kinds of threads. They will chime in before much time has passed.

Good luck.

[brmax]

You have done some great homework and made some good machine choices, i can only add and seriously believe this here reducer pulley setup will be as well a good investment in goodtimes.

Good day

Floyd

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=hightex+box+type+speed+reducer+ht-sp03&client=safari&channel=iphone_bm&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjYyNSBs43UAhWm24MKHX6TA-sQ_AUICigC&biw=375&bih=559#imgrc=T1fNfQqQ0uxbVM:

 

[JLSleather]

I had the consew.. solid machine that stitched pretty well (and quick!).  But I don't really know how a guy would do an inseam with a flatbed

 

[Techsew Ron]

7 hours ago, kaneda2033 said:

The main piece of advice I have gotten so far is a flatbed compound walking foot machine for light to medium weight material. I mainly use garment leathers and thickness isn't usually much more than a few layers of chap leather, but wouldn't mind being able to sew through thicker, sturdier leather as well. Maybe 2-2.5 oz at most? Here is what I am looking at so far (my price limit is ideally $1500, but I'm reasonably flexible)...

If you're mainly using garment leather/chap leather around 2-2.5oz, the machines you mentioned will all be appropriate for your needs. As someone previously mentioned adding a speed reducer will certainly help if you want extremely slow sewing speed beyond what a servo motor can reduce to. A cylinder walking foot machine would also be good for you as it would add some versatility in being able to sew into hard to reach areas.

Ron

[Yetibelle]

Have you looked or thought about a rolling-foot post bed machine?  They would be good for 3D work. 

 

[JLSleather]

50 minutes ago, Yetibelle said:

Have you looked or thought about a rolling-foot post bed machine?  They would be good for 3D work. 

 

Yeah, see that's what I'm thinkin'.. you mention pants, bodysuits, shirts.. I'm thinkin' post machine, or maybe patcher...

[mikesc]

I'm thinking ..that going from

I already do a lot of saddle stitch for making pet supplies, straps for cameras, wallets, and anything like that.

to

easily make all sorts of garments, everything from pants and shirts to full bodysuits...corsets

and thinking the only thing that you need to succeed in making the latter group is a machine
I'm thinking..
"don't try to run before you are sure you can walk"
Designing / making the patterns / grading the patterns / pattern cutting / making the items / fitting ( and if necessary "adjusting" the items ) etc ..is a whole world of talent and experience away from dog collars, camera straps and wallets..it requires far more "miles under your belt" in talent / experience and probably expensive mistakes..

That said..for that range of garments..you need a triple feed compound action cylinder machine ( yes you could work with a "post bed" and roller foot but a triple action cylinder would be better, get a post bed later ) , get one that can be fitted with a flat bed "conversion" that can stitch up to 12mm ( half inch )..if you want to make stuff that is thicker , you'll need a 441 or a clone of a 441..

Ron might be able to tweak one of his new 3850s so it would sew from two layers of 1.5 mm up to it's usual top end size..or you are going to have to get at least two machines, if you want to go any thicker than 9 or 10 mm total ..most if not all of the garments that you mentioned are in chrome tan ( soft ) very unlikely that you'd need to sew thicker than 9mm, unless you are thinking of making heavy duty restraints and heavy BDSM gear..in which case, you want a machine specially for that..

The hardest thing in making good, well fitting , quality leather garments is designing the patterns, knowing how to grade them, knowing how to lay and cut them depending on the skins/hides that you buy, and the actual sewing of leather garments is not at all like the sewing of textile garments..

[kaneda2033]

Well, it's true that the nature of my post sounds as if I think it's an easy walk through the park going from hand stitching to working with a machine whilst learning pattern making and grading. So, please bare in mind this is why I come here for the sage wisdom of experienced leather workers. By no means do I think I can just get a sweet machine and breeze on in here assuming I can make a world of leather...

In all humility and gratitude, I am here to learn.

...I still want a machine though.

Edited May 27, 2017 by kaneda2033

[brmax]

Welcome !

Your in the right place.

 

have a good day

Floyd