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This is from Hidehandler, aka Dave Howell, of Nashville, Tenn. Used with permission, all rights reserved.

Johanna

I have seen that process told in Stholmans books. And have been using it for years. I didnt know that point of not using Neat Lac on Oiled leathers cuz it will crack. Learn something new every day.

Thanks for making that Dave and thanks Johanna for posting.

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I really hope I'm not sticking my foot in my mouth, here. Dyeing veg tan to a true black isn't and shouldn't be rocket science. I've seen several discussions about it and "rub off" is the major concern. I've never had that problem and I can't be that lucky [all the time] so maybe I'm doing something right. Okay, now that I'm out on the end of the limb . . . .

First off, Daubers are too slow and unreliable for a complete coverage. I recommend cutting a Wool Applicator from Sheep Shealing. A 3" diameter applicator works good for large areas and a 2" dia. one works well for the small ones. Be sure to cut the wool down to about 3/8" or 1/2" in length to prevent the "dribble effect."

Apply the Oil Dye (recommended) in two coats and let dry. As suggested, control it to keep it off the backside. Once dry, apply a coat of Resolene with a damp sponge and leave it set for about 30 minutes to an hour. This seals the dye and allows the leather to be used without cracking the finish. Also, rub off is out of the picture. As you can see in the photo, the leather is very black and she is wearing white clothes.

Just my 2 cents.

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I p/u some cheap ss pans/trays from a local discount place.

i just pour the black dye into the pan and dunk/soak the leather for a couple of minutes. when my head clears :o i remove it and let it drip to get the excess off.

the only time i use a dauber is on small parts less the 6" square or so.

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True black? ... or blue black ... Hidehandler? ... where is Dave anyway? The Nashville Rebel could cheer everyone up ... it's too quiet over here ... lol!

Edited by Johanna

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Two coats dark blue....

Two coats black....

vigorously rub off any loose residue with cotton rag....

apply two coats of neutral shoe polish in small circular motions by hand (to heat up).... brush with clean shoe brush.

avoid getting dyes on the backside where they may contact clothes...

However, no cowboys wore white pants when hanging around at the saloon....... so for show something like acrylic paint....may be needed ....

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... and label that clean shoe brush "black" because it will be black from then on, or you'll have something blackish that you don't want. I already done that, you don't need to test it ... lol

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Absolutely... we have brushes labeled ' nuetral, brown, black ' ....and at least once a year my father would get out the dishpan and wash all the brushes... they can last decades if treated right... Greg

".. and label that clean shoe brush "black" because it will be black from then on,"---Bill

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I'm no expert on black dye, but I get no rub-off with Fiebing's oil dye. I don't do anything special. Just clean my leather and apply a coat of black. Let it dry 24 hrs. and buff, then apply a second coat and buff again after another 24 hrs. I tried that voodoo blue / black with the Institutional dye, USMC Black and Black Pro dye and they all rub off. It works with the black oil dye but I found it's an added step that does nothing that I can actually see or find beneficial - nothing tangible. Poor ol' Dave won't retire this year because I'm only buying black dye - no blue dyes - especially no royal blues ... sorry Dave - don't cash in your 401K just yet ... lol

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The reason people who have worked in places that sell black dye for use on leather tell people to use some other dark color in addition to black is that regularly over the years people come into the store saying " I used the black dye and my project has Iridescent blue tones " like a water puddle will show when oil is on its surface.

The construction of your sentence makes it sound like someone suggested this in order to minimize rub off of the black.. but that is completely seperate from the true black color using the blue/black is suggested for.

Since I don't ' oil ' most of my projects... I prefer to use the lighter spirit carrier in regular black dye ( as compared to Black Pro Dye, etc ) and then use neutral shoe polish or carnauba cream for long term conditioning....

Buffing any loose residuals off before applying some clear finish is always good procedure.

Institutional dye is for places like prisons or schools... where the users can not be trusted to follow the safety rules.... It is generally considered inferior to regular dye formulations... Greg

I tried that voodoo blue / black with the Institutional dye, USMC Black and Black Pro dye and they all rub off. It works with the black oil dye but I found it's an added step that does nothing that I can actually see or find beneficial -

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I'm no expert on black dye, but I get no rub-off with Fiebing's oil dye. I don't do anything special. Just clean my leather and apply a coat of black. Let it dry 24 hrs. and buff, then apply a second coat and buff again after another 24 hrs. I tried that voodoo blue / black with the Institutional dye, USMC Black and Black Pro dye and they all rub off. It works with the black oil dye but I found it's an added step that does nothing that I can actually see or find beneficial - nothing tangible. Poor ol' Dave won't retire this year because I'm only buying black dye - no blue dyes - especially no royal blues ... sorry Dave - don't cash in your 401K just yet ... lol

Ahh, you said the Magic Word . . . Oil Dye! Even with a light coat of Neats Foot, it stays put.

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Place some Fine grade steel wool and jam as much as you can into a jar, then pour in white vinegar to completely cover the steel wool. Put on an airtight lid and let sit for a few days. The steel wool dissolves and the mixture gets darker and darker. Every time you put on a new application, its darker. You don't have to wait long between coats. You should shake it every few day's.

Barra

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