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MikeG

Machine sewing close to raised edge

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Because of arthritis and other hand issues, I am somewhat limited to machine sewing.  I would like to get the stitch line closer to the raised portion of molded pouches.  Anyone have suggestions?  Or is this going to be the best I can do using a machine?  Thanks!!

altoids case 1.jpgaltoids case 2.jpg

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What machine do you have Mike? I would look at a zipper foot, you can get very close with one of them. I once made one from a standard smooth bottom walking foot set by cutting off the left toe of the outer foot.

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Thanks, Matt.

For better or worse, I have a No. 9 stitcher.  A beast of a machine, but probably not for this type of work.  I have considered trying to come up with another foot, but there is nothing standard that I know of to fit it.  I can find very little info on this machine.  I have talked to the manufacturer-they are extremely nice, but all parts appear to be handmade (expensive and long lead time). It might be more economical long term to trade machines.

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This is not a perfect answer, but could you sew them and them and then wet form again?  You may have to alter your original mold to accommodate a shim/spacer you insert after.

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1 hour ago, MikeG said:

Thanks, Matt.

For better or worse, I have a No. 9 stitcher.  A beast of a machine, but probably not for this type of work.  I have considered trying to come up with another foot, but there is nothing standard that I know of to fit it.  I can find very little info on this machine.  I have talked to the manufacturer-they are extremely nice, but all parts appear to be handmade (expensive and long lead time). It might be more economical long term to trade machines.

Is that the Tony Luberto one where you can move the foot side to side?

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1 hour ago, johnv474 said:

This is not a perfect answer, but could you sew them and them and then wet form again?  You may have to alter your original mold to accommodate a shim/spacer you insert after.

+1

i think this is a wiser idea than getting a new machine. - that is if you only have to do a few products on wet mold.. 

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2 hours ago, Matt S said:

Is that the Tony Luberto one where you can move the foot side to side?

Unfortunately, my model predates that one.  I checked with him and it would be cost prohibitive (for me) to modify it.  It would have to be shipped to him to make the mods.

3 hours ago, johnv474 said:

This is not a perfect answer, but could you sew them and them and then wet form again?  You may have to alter your original mold to accommodate a shim/spacer you insert after.

Thanks, John.  That is an interesting idea that had not occurred to me.  I may give it a try.  One of the great things about this forum is getting ideas that you had not considered yourself.

 

 

Edited by MikeG
update

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3 hours ago, MikeG said:

Thanks, Matt.

For better or worse, I have a No. 9 stitcher.  A beast of a machine, but probably not for this type of work.  I have considered trying to come up with another foot, but there is nothing standard that I know of to fit it.  I can find very little info on this machine.  I have talked to the manufacturer-they are extremely nice, but all parts appear to be handmade (expensive and long lead time). It might be more economical long term to trade machines.

Generally I have been able to get cheap standard feet and just grind them down until they suit the job I want it to do . Sometimes if I have to I just make them from scratch but that can take 3 hours or more sometimes. I don't know this machine type so some pics could help.

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12 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Generally I have been able to get cheap standard feet and just grind them down until they suit the job I want it to do . Sometimes if I have to I just make them from scratch but that can take 3 hours or more sometimes. I don't know this machine type so some pics could help.

It's basically a recently produced Pearson no6 with a cylinder arm. Big thing for harness work etc. and no reverse.

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14 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Generally I have been able to get cheap standard feet and just grind them down until they suit the job I want it to do . Sometimes if I have to I just make them from scratch but that can take 3 hours or more sometimes. I don't know this machine type so some pics could help.

Thanks - that is probably the best overall solution. I really was just wondering if I was missing something or doing something wrong.  it is certainly not beyond my capability to make a new foot,  I just need to get out there and do it.  Appreciating all the responses and encouragement.  Love this forum!

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The reason why there is little information out there and no aftermarket support is that the whole production run of ASE #9s was about 400 units, followed by 60 Classics made by Tony Luberto. I recently acquired a #9 and assumed I'd just machine a left and right toe foot out of solid at some point. Wouldn't have to be elaborate as it's just a jump foot. Moderator Art has a #9, if he has the left and right toe feet, maybe he would post a photo. 

IMG_0651.JPG

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I had a #9 machine, I kept the # 6 and sold the #9...  It did not run as good as the pearson.

 I had all attachments for it. Left and right feet as well as the standard toe. So could sew close to the side without any problem. I can not remember the set up of attaching the feet but i would think it would be pretty easy to get one made up. Take the foot you have to a machine shop in town and ask them to make up one. In calgary,there is a machinist that i have used and can make up all parts for machines i have needed in past.

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14 minutes ago, leathersmyth said:

 

I had a #9 machine, I kept the # 6 and sold the #9...  It did not run as good as the pearson.

 

I've never had the opportunity to talk to someone who had had both a #9 and a Pearson. What advantages does the Pearson have?

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Now that I'm home, this is a front view of the standard foot. Looks like it would be straightforward to machine a new mounting plate to shift the foot to the left or right.

IMG_0662.JPG

IMG_0651.JPG

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6 hours ago, MikeG said:

Thanks - that is probably the best overall solution. I really was just wondering if I was missing something or doing something wrong.  it is certainly not beyond my capability to make a new foot,  I just need to get out there and do it.  Appreciating all the responses and encouragement.  Love this forum!

Just a word of caution, when removing or making a foot right or left be sure to leave a bit in the middle behind the needle and remove back more if needed. If you remove too much you will find the needle can want to climb up the side a bit and leave needle marks on the side. I made that mistake before. I took back one a bit too far for stitching the rope filled round handles and had a lot of trouble keeping it from climbing up the rope. Rope type handle in picture below and note the trimming happens after the stitching . Regards Brian

DSC06995_resize.jpg

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The ideas on different feet make total sense now.  Brian, thanks for the tip to keep from making needle marks.  I totally would have missed that.  Since it is a jump foot machine, I still might have an issue with the foot climbing up the edge.  I will keep that in mind and do a follow up on this thread once I have made up some alternate feet.

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    Pearson is a much smoother machine, #9 sounds like a tractor when running, Way louder, more"jerky" than the pearson. The only limitation of the #6 is the shuttle system if you want to sew things that need to drop down when sewing by the needle. Which is why had picked up the #9. The machining was not as nice as it could of been. I think #9 is not a "bad" machine but because of the more "clunk" as sewing ,i think the parts will wear out due to the stress put on them when running. If the machining and design could of been slightly tweaked,then i think it would be a awesome machine to run.....

 Sold the 9 and got a bull instead. Much smoother running than the #9.

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