Making a Straight Stitch Groove

[HideCreekLeather]

I have two hides of thinner 4oz horween Essex that I just can not seem to get a straight and neat stitch groove on.  The leather stretches so much that I can't apply enough pressure with the stitching groover guide without the leather moving and creating a wavy stitch groove.  I'm not sure if I should be burnishing the edge slightly before marking the stitching line so there is less give/stretch to the edge? Should I try using a ruler to guide the grooving tool or get one of the divider/caliper style tools to make a stitching line.  I only have this problem with thin leather, anything over 6oz allows me to make a perfect stitching groove.  I would appreciate any advise. 

[alpha2]

I don't groove that stuff. It's too thin, doesn't need it, and like you say, it stretches. It's light enough the stitches recess a bit into the leather anyway of you put proper tension on the thread. 

I just put a slight line down with a dividers, unless it's in the middle of a piece, then I use an awl and straightedge.

[HideCreekLeather]

Thanks for the advice alpha2!  I was leaning towards that as I noticed many wallet makes using thinner leather didn't use stitch grooves, probably for the exact reasons you mentioned. As a follow up, who makes a solid divider that is good for leather marking?

[Mattsbagger]

1 hour ago, HideCreekLeather said:

Thanks for the advice alpha2!  I was leaning towards that as I noticed many wallet makes using thinner leather didn't use stitch grooves, probably for the exact reasons you mentioned. As a follow up, who makes a solid divider that is good for leather marking?

No need to get fancy. Go to Harbor Freight. They have a few different sizes. 

[Stetson912]

Dividers is the way to go. I seldom groove anything anymore. I find the stitching recesses enough for most things. And with leather that thin it would probably be more harm than good. Also, try a light touch at first, you can always go back over it but if you use a heavy hand it adds to the stretch factor in my experience. 

[480volt]

I don't groove for stitching at all, unless there is a reason the stitches must be recessed. 

[johnv474]

You can put tape on the opposite side so the leather doesn't stretch while cutting the groove.  You can use a ruler as a guide instead of using the edge of the leather, for your line to be very straight.  Lastly, you can sharpen/replace the groover blade.

[thekid77]

On 7/1/2017 at 10:13 AM, HideCreekLeather said:

I have two hides of thinner 4oz horween Essex that I just can not seem to get a straight and neat stitch groove on.  The leather stretches so much that I can't apply enough pressure with the stitching groover guide without the leather moving and creating a wavy stitch groove.  I'm not sure if I should be burnishing the edge slightly before marking the stitching line so there is less give/stretch to the edge? Should I try using a ruler to guide the grooving tool or get one of the divider/caliper style tools to make a stitching line.  I only have this problem with thin leather, anything over 6oz allows me to make a perfect stitching groove.  I would appreciate any advise. 

+++ to alpha, stetson, and 480....ditch the groover......I've been making belts and wallets for four years now and not one of them has had the stitching fail....I was happy to get rid of the groover after completely destroying quite a few projects and wasting tons of material with it.

To this day, I have never seen thread wear or fray that has been stitched without a groover......not to mention the groove tends to flatten out the neat twisted rope appearance of the saddle stitch....but each to their own

[480volt]

I don't groove for my stitching as I prefer the slanted, more European style look. I would however, groove or hammer down heavy stitching on the back of an unlined vambrace worn directly against the forearm. 

[johnv474]

Fraying of thread (and the need for a groove) is much less important on modern, small goods that don't get heavy use and are sewn with synthetic thread.  Synthetic thread frays much less easily than linen thread.  On a saddle that is sewn with linen thread, for example, fraying is much more of an issue.

If I want to slightly recess my threads I use either scratch awl, wing dividers, or bone folder to press in a slight 'groove' or depression. 

 

[immiketoo]

On 7/1/2017 at 8:26 PM, alpha2 said:

I don't groove that stuff. It's too thin, doesn't need it, and like you say, it stretches. It's light enough the stitches recess a bit into the leather anyway of you put proper tension on the thread. 

I just put a slight line down with a dividers, unless it's in the middle of a piece, then I use an awl and straightedge.

That^^^

[Tpc]

My friend showed me a cartridge belt he has had for 25 years. Wears in all weather's outside his coat. Lays down to shoot. The stitches are perfect. No grooves.