Roller feed vs walking foot

[tomsmith85717]

I am looking to buy my first leather sewing machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts.  So here is where I am going to ask for help.

What is the difference between roller feed , active roller feeds (techsew 830) and walking feet (techsew 860) for my applications

I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 so I am familiar with how a walking foot operates, I am more curious what are the advantages and disadvantages of both. I will say I really like the idea of being able to see my needle as it plunges into the leather.

I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot.

I know that no one machine will do everything I want to do but I want a fairly versatile machine to start with and then pick up a 227R or similar cylinder arm medium duty machine that's capable of running 207 or better thread.

I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me.

 

Thanks I need all the help I can get.

[Techsew Ron]

4 hours ago, tomsmith85717 said:

I am looking to buy my first leather sewing machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts.  So here is where I am going to ask for help.

What is the difference between roller feed , active roller feeds (techsew 830) and walking feet (techsew 860) for my applications

I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 so I am familiar with how a walking foot operates, I am more curious what are the advantages and disadvantages of both. I will say I really like the idea of being able to see my needle as it plunges into the leather.

I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot.

I know that no one machine will do everything I want to do but I want a fairly versatile machine to start with and then pick up a 227R or similar cylinder arm medium duty machine that's capable of running 207 or better thread.

I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me.

 

Thanks I need all the help I can get.

Hi Tom, advantage of a machine like the Techsew 830 is the ability to sew right along the edge with increased visibility due to the proximity of the needle to the roller foot. For sewing 2-3 layers of 6-8oz leather you're better off with a walking foot machine. A roller feed machine like the 830 is great for soft leather and is commonly used for shoe and boot production, however it does not quite have the feeding power of a walking foot machine and you'll be limited if you want to venture into belts and thicker leather. Walking foot machines can also use larger thread sizes and are much more versatile (especially cylinder arm machines).

If you're concerned about sewing straight lines with a walking foot machine you can always use an edge guide with a left toe zipper foot for better visibility and edge sewing.

cheers!
Ron

 

[Gregspitz]

I have both from Techsew and they are both great machines...but of course Ron is correct the feeding for your purposes will be better with a walking foot..

I have the 2750PRO and for my money it is the most versatile for my uses. Get a speed reducer you will not be sorry..just my humble opinion

Remember "buy the seller"..and the follow up support from Techsew is fantastic!

Good Luck

[dikman]

One of the advantages of a walking foot is no slippage of layers if using multiple layers, with a roller foot you could get slipping/bunching. I've also found that it's fairly easy to get needle deflection and breaking (not nice!) when using a roller foot if the leather is too thick or moves in any way while sewing. As for seeing the needle where it enters the leather, yep, I know what you mean. I bought an inner foot that is slotted so I can see where I'm sewing, not perfect but acceptable.

[tomsmith85717]

I think I might look at the cylinder arm machines first and then pick up a roller feed later... but keep the advice coming I want all I can get before I pull the trigger on a machine.

[dikman]

I'm not sure how you'll go with a small cylinder arm that can handle heavy thread, hopefully others with more experience can provide suitable models to look for. I think the 227r can handle up to 207, but my Pfaff 335 can only handle up to 138.

[tomsmith85717]

138 is strong enough to do most of what i am looking at doing but 207 would be nicer.

[Wizcrafts]

40 minutes ago, tomsmith85717 said:

138 is strong enough to do most of what i am looking at doing but 207 would be nicer.

There are a few walking foot machines that can handle #207 thread and even fewer cylinder arm machines. Many of those machines will prefer to have #138 in the bobbin.

A lot depends on the thread itself. Despite the marked size designations, there seems to be a lot of variance in thread diameter, based on my own experience. Some #207 (aka: T210) thread I have is smaller or larger than other spools. Some of the black thread is tough and springy, while others are softer. All of this plays into what a given machine can deal with.

Because of these thread based variables, it is best to look for a sewing machine that is definitely built with heavier thread in mind. This leaves out all of the upholstery class walking foot machines. The might sew with #207, but it is a crap shoot.

There is one machine that comes to mind that is fully capable of tensioning #207 thread (up to #346) and can be equipped with either a flat or roller foot. That is the Cowboy CB2500. It is a heavy duty bottom feed cylinder arm machine that is a clone of the old Singer 45k series. The bobbins a cylindrical, the parts are massive and it sews up to 7/16 inch out of the box. Check it out.

 

[Techsew Ron]

On 7/20/2017 at 2:11 PM, Gregspitz said:

I have both from Techsew and they are both great machines...but of course Ron is correct the feeding for your purposes will be better with a walking foot..

I have the 2750PRO and for my money it is the most versatile for my uses. Get a speed reducer you will not be sorry..just my humble opinion

Remember "buy the seller"..and the follow up support from Techsew is fantastic!

Good Luck

thanks Greg! 

[JeannieH]

On 7/20/2017 at 6:55 PM, dikman said:

One of the advantages of a walking foot is no slippage of layers if using multiple layers, with a roller foot you could get slipping/bunching. I've also found that it's fairly easy to get needle deflection and breaking (not nice!) when using a roller foot if the leather is too thick or moves in any way while sewing. As for seeing the needle where it enters the leather, yep, I know what you mean. I bought an inner foot that is slotted so I can see where I'm sewing, not perfect but acceptable.

Hi. Where did you get the slotted inner foot from?i could use it! Can a roller foot attachment be put on a cylinder arm walking foot somehow?

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, JeannieH said:

Hi. Where did you get the slotted inner foot from?i could use it! Can a roller foot attachment be put on a cylinder arm walking foot somehow?

I bought a slotted inner foot and a short left toe presser foot set for my Singer 139w109 walking foot machine from Leather Machines Company (aka: Cobra).

[dikman]

I bought mine from somewhere in China via ebay 'cos finding parts like this in Oz isn't as easy as you folks in the US have it!

As for fitting a roller foot to a walking foot, I suppose it could be done but I'd have to ask why, because of the alternating feet I can't see that it would be of any benefit.

[Darren Brosowski]

On 2/16/2018 at 5:56 PM, dikman said:

I bought mine from somewhere in China via ebay 'cos finding parts like this in Oz isn't as easy as you folks in the US have it!

As for fitting a roller foot to a walking foot, I suppose it could be done but I'd have to ask why, because of the alternating feet I can't see that it would be of any benefit.

I keep quite a few odd parts up in Goulburn NSW and in some cases have been stocking special feet before anyone else.

That is a question that comes up every now and then with the 132k6 where people want to sew lighter leather. To make it a roller foot you have to remove the outer presser bar. Like you, I am not sure that there is any real benefit.

 

 

 

[JeannieH]

On 2/16/2018 at 1:56 AM, dikman said:

I bought mine from somewhere in China via ebay 'cos finding parts like this in Oz isn't as easy as you folks in the US have it!

As for fitting a roller foot to a walking foot, I suppose it could be done but I'd have to ask why, because of the alternating feet I can't see that it would be of any benefit.

Well I see how designer handbags stitches are very close to the edge. I can only get as close as the inner walking foot lines up with my edge guide..or with the right outside of the inner foot lined up with the edge. I’ve been searching for a solution or foot to get close like it seems the roller foot allows you to get.

[radrider]

10 minutes ago, JeannieH said:

Well I see how designer handbags stitches are very close to the edge. I can only get as close as the inner walking foot lines up with my edge guide..or with the right outside of the inner foot lined up with the edge. I’ve been searching for a solution or foot to get close like it seems the roller foot allows you to get.

have you tried right / left zipper feet?

[JeannieH]

Yes I only sew with an outer foot that has the right toe removed..but I still can’t get close as I want sometimes.

[radrider]

3 minutes ago, JeannieH said:

Yes I only sew with an outer foot that has the right toe removed..but I still can’t get close as I want sometimes.

I think you need to get out the Dremel and do some sculpting ;P

Also depending on what machine you use, there are feet available that have little guides built into them.

Edited February 18, 2018 by radrider

[JeannieH]

Lol yes it seems I need to get the dremel out! Ok I will keep looking!

[dikman]

Sounds like you need another machine , one designed to use a roller foot.

[JeannieH]

Lol I agree. I just bought a skiving machine so looks like I need to save up now for a roller feed post bed.....before that though I need a fileteuse ugh. Anyone ever bought the set up leathercraftpattern.com has? It comes with 7 tips..two handles..and the transformer...all for 440. 

[AdamPCain]

2 hours ago, JeannieH said:

Lol I agree. I just bought a skiving machine so looks like I need to save up now for a roller feed post bed.....before that though I need a fileteuse ugh. Anyone ever bought the set up leathercraftpattern.com has? It comes with 7 tips..two handles..and the transformer...all for 440. 

I have been looking at that myself for the price and what you get looks great, let me know what you find out about it.  The same machine is on ebay and I contacted the seller but information wasn't great due to the difference in language.

[JeannieH]

Ok I sure will. They are on holiday right now. I emailed them and they said they will be back working the first of March. I will let you know if I get it. Campbell Randall has a device for 225. It just looks like a soldering iron. But it must work.  Also, http://elfitakorea.blogspot.ae/?m=1 has a nice one for I think 238 usd. Check that one out as well. It looks like the other one but the tips are not heated like the expensive ones. But, I’m sure it works great.

[AdamPCain]

2 hours ago, JeannieH said:

Ok I sure will. They are on holiday right now. I emailed them and they said they will be back working the first of March. I will let you know if I get it. Campbell Randall has a device for 225. It just looks like a soldering iron. But it must work.  Also, http://elfitakorea.blogspot.ae/?m=1 has a nice one for I think 238 usd. Check that one out as well. It looks like the other one but the tips are not heated like the expensive ones. But, I’m sure it works great.

Thanks