Folding Bridle leather for gusset

[Loriner68]

Dear all

I'm new to the forum, and would like to ask advice about how to make a sharp 90 degree fold/bend

for edges of a gusset. I'm replicating an old leather tool case made in 3.0mm veg tan bridle leather.

I want the edges turned up at 90 degrees fold, so that it holds it's shape and the gusset remains stiff.

I've done a test by running a groove 10mm in from the edge, then wetting it and gently bending until it's a right 

angle. But the bridle leather isn't natural un-dyed hide, but is dyed through, and a bit waxy, so the water

isn't really penetrating the leather. 

It's an old technique, but I'm not sure how to get a good result. A saddler suggested using natural or raw hide

to wet mould it, then apply dyes, oils and waxes,  after it dries stiff. But then another suggested it can be done

with dyed through hides, just have to be patient with it and keep working the edges until you get the shape right.

can anyone with experience in doing this advise what I can do?

thanks

Martin

[AndersenLeather]

If the gusset you try to make is the same as this one I don't think that you need to wet it at all.

andersenleather.blogspot.com/2017/02/3-piece-gusset.html

 

 

Edited July 21, 2017 by jonasbo

[Matt S]

I find that some bridle leather can need working underwater to wet them properly. Warm (but not hot) water helps too. Rather than folding gently, establish your fold line and then hammer it down flat (the direction you want it to fold) and allow to dry naturally under a weight. Experiment with an offcut first.

[Rockoboy]

12 hours ago, Matt S said:

I find that some bridle leather can need working underwater to wet them properly. Warm (but not hot) water helps too. Rather than folding gently, establish your fold line and then hammer it down flat (the direction you want it to fold) and allow to dry naturally under a weight. Experiment with an offcut first.

I do what Matt S has said, but I also sometimes clamp vegtan between 2 pieces of angle iron or between an angle iron and a piece of wood clamped into the angle. Let it dry overnight and it is fine.

I have no experience with bridle leather. Maybe the bridle leather is to close to chrome tan leather, with a lot of wax and oils to protect it from moisture.

The main difficulty is getting a really square corner. Depending on the thickness of the vegtan and the distance from the edge, sometimes my corners have a radius of 5mm or more.

Edited July 22, 2017 by Rockoboy
more information

[Loriner68]

3 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

3 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

i have no experience with bridle leather. Maybe the bridle leather is to close to chrome tan leather, with a lot of wax and oils to protect it from moisture.

Brian, bridle or at least English bridle can be quite waxy, with a bit of oil, so can be resistant to water penetration. But as you say and Matt S say, best to experiment and find a less waxy hide. English bridle can vary a great deal depending on the tannery. 

I'll definitely try clamping in an angle iron. Good idea. 

I'll also try giving a lot of over-hang, bend and clamp, then when dry trim the edge to 10mm. I want a fairly crisp square corner, so cutting in a groove on the flesh side might work.

Also, Jonasbo: impressive work in that photo blog. I'll have to study it a bit to see if it's similar to what I'm trying to do.

Thanks to all.

cheers

martin

 

[Loriner68]

Jonasbo,

what is the leather you've used for your case? Is it the 3.2mm Italian double shoulder? and is it dyed through or natural?

From the photos it doesn't look too waxy. More water absorbent? 

many thanks

[AndersenLeather]

2 hours ago, Loriner68 said:

Jonasbo,

what is the leather you've used for your case? Is it the 3.2mm Italian double shoulder? and is it dyed through or natural?

From the photos it doesn't look too waxy. More water absorbent? 

many thanks

I used a 3,2 mm italian double bend. It is not a bridle but a normal veg tan completely undyed.

It is not at all waxy but very water absorbent.  

[Loriner68]

Thanks Jonasbro,

I wanted to ask one last question. I had a close look at the gusset you made, and the groove process. It looks very sound, 

and solid. Two photos in succession show the cut then the groove. It's then folded back to create a square bend. Do you think

from  the way you worked it that it would work if you bend it outwards. I'm guessing you'd need to be careful and adjust the depth

of the initial cut then removing excess leather ( with groover) to ensure it gives a square bend. And stays in place once dried.

cheers

Martin

[AndersenLeather]

2 hours ago, Loriner68 said:

Thanks Jonasbro,

I wanted to ask one last question. I had a close look at the gusset you made, and the groove process. It looks very sound, 

and solid. Two photos in succession show the cut then the groove. It's then folded back to create a square bend. Do you think

from  the way you worked it that it would work if you bend it outwards. I'm guessing you'd need to be careful and adjust the depth

of the initial cut then removing excess leather ( with groover) to ensure it gives a square bend. And stays in place once dried.

cheers

Martin

I'm not sure I understand your question completely. 

Most of the bends are made by cutting a single slit around halfway through the leather. These slits only works when you bend the leather outwards (bending so that the grain side of the leather comes closer together)

Only two bends was made using a groover. This was where the bend had to be inwards (bending so that the flesh side of the leather comes closer together)

Also I did not wet the leather at all. 

[Loriner68]

Another question...I looked at your April 2015 post on the shoulder bag. Where did you get the hide from?

It's a beautiful rich tan. The Italian double shoulders and bends available here in Australia have changed 

dramatically in colour over the past 3-4 years. They used to be a vibrant and deep saddle tan, which is what

it's formally called for this market, but the colour now is more like a medium brown. Virtually no red or orange in it.

It's a great shame, and the merchants here don't really care..they just get what they get, no questions. 

It's out there, still being made, but can't seem to get here. Maybe it's my poor research skills.

[Loriner68]

thanks for the answer...I wasn't be clear. The cut would have to be on the flesh side, so the grain sides come closer together.

Beautiful work by the way.

[AndersenLeather]

15 hours ago, Loriner68 said:

Another question...I looked at your April 2015 post on the shoulder bag. Where did you get the hide from?

It's a beautiful rich tan. The Italian double shoulders and bends available here in Australia have changed 

dramatically in colour over the past 3-4 years. They used to be a vibrant and deep saddle tan, which is what

it's formally called for this market, but the colour now is more like a medium brown. Virtually no red or orange in it.

It's a great shame, and the merchants here don't really care..they just get what they get, no questions. 

It's out there, still being made, but can't seem to get here. Maybe it's my poor research skills.

I dyed the leather myself. 

[Loriner68]

Would you be willing or interested in dying a hide in this colour for me? What do you charge for it?

Edited July 25, 2017 by Loriner68
poor spelling