Rune

Motorcycle seat finnish?

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Hello! New to this forum tonight :-)

My small brain is aching after watching dying and finishing-videos on youtube. I find it hard to get straight answers, so I make an attempt here.

I have just finished my first seat. (Se Picture). First i used acrylic antique leatherstain(Fiebings), then supershene (Eco-flo). Is this enough for a motorcycleseat in use in sun,rain and even in snow sometimes? Can or should I use some leather wax on top of supershene?

Rune

seat.jpg

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I finish my seats with resolene then use kiwi nuetral.  Give kiwi a try.  

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Thanks! Can I use resolene on both ackrylic and oil-dye?

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I only use oil dye... so i can just speak for its success with that. But i dont see why it wouldnt.  Do a search on forum bout resolene and im sure someone will have already addressed that topic. Good luck

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Thanks! I am using oil-dye too. :-)

 

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I have tried many different finishes for seats. My personal bikes all sit outside under motorcycle covers and I've had more than one seat rot away by trying different products to finish / protect the seats. I've had the most success with the following combination. I thoroughly coat the leather with neatsfoot oil two or three times before I tool the piece. Coating both sides of the leather. I let the neatsfoot oil dry completely then tool the seat. After all tooling and dyeing are complete I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish to finish the seat. Then I use Kiwi mink oil to condition after the seat has been on the bike for awhile. I try to apply mink oil often maybe every 6 weeks or so.  After the mink oil is absorbed hit it with neutral shoe polish and it'll be nice and shiny like a new penny. 

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Thanks for the answer, Horseshoe :-)

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I use only Fiebings spirit dye applied with an airbrush. Followed by Fiebings antiquing paste. When dry for 2-3 days I use Fiebings Leather Balm with atom wax. Buff when dry. 

Edited by David
You can see my seats at www.theobaldleather.com

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Davids back!!!!

Sorry for the excitement,  learned most, if not all, of what i know of start to finish seat building from davids contributions on this site.  

Glad to see you're making seats again.

 

Edited by jaydela180
Typo

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On 10/14/2017 at 11:51 AM, David said:

I use only Fiebings spirit dye applied with an airbrush. Followed by Fiebings antiquing paste. When dry for 2-3 days I use Fiebings Leather Balm with atom wax. Buff when dry. 

Now I'm baffled.  I had heard time and again not to use Leather Balm with atom wax on tooled items, because the tooling will fill up with white chalky wax that is hard to get out.  I like leather balm, but haven't used it on tooling because of these comments.  How are you doing it without the issue?  Thanks!

YinTx

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On ‎11‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 10:59 PM, YinTx said:

Now I'm baffled.  I had heard time and again not to use Leather Balm with atom wax on tooled items, because the tooling will fill up with white chalky wax that is hard to get out.  I like leather balm, but haven't used it on tooling because of these comments.  How are you doing it without the issue?  Thanks!

YinTx

I love the stuff:lol: I use it on just about 90% of my work. If you follow the directions, then yes it will cake up. Weaver leather supply has a great video by Chuck Dorsett. I love his method and found I have a better result  by using it. Hope this helps:rockon:

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On 11/23/2017 at 11:59 PM, YinTx said:

Now I'm baffled.  I had heard time and again not to use Leather Balm with atom wax on tooled items, because the tooling will fill up with white chalky wax that is hard to get out.  I like leather balm, but haven't used it on tooling because of these comments.  How are you doing it without the issue?  Thanks!

YinTx

I use Atom Wax on tooled pieces and have not had any problems with white residue.  I apply several light coats and ensure there are no heavy deposits.  If tooling is deep I use a shoe shine brush to buff it - works great!

Gary

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Thanks, I'll give it a try, since I like the look I get when I use it on un-tooled leather.

YinTx

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