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Dragonfly42

Edge punch?!?

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It's a half round punch probably. You can cut a round punch in half or I THINK Weaver sells half round punches.

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6 minutes ago, Mattsbagger said:

It's a half round punch probably. You can cut a round punch in half or I THINK Weaver sells half round punches.

Hmmmm I didn't think of that. I have the punch sets with the interchangeable tips so a sacrifice might be in order. Thank you!!

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You could always go to Harbor Freight and get a set of punches and cut them all in half and you would have a she set for different sizes. Cheap enough and do it with a grinder probably.

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2 minutes ago, Mattsbagger said:

You could always go to Harbor Freight and get a set of punches and cut them all in half and you would have a she set for different sizes. Cheap enough and do it with a grinder probably.

Even better idea! I have access to a high end bandsaw. Wife owns a hardware store :)

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27 minutes ago, Dragonfly42 said:

Even better idea! I have access to a high end bandsaw. Wife owns a hardware store :)

Some are pretty hard so may not cut even with a high end bandsaw.  I tried touching up a set on a lathe using a carbide tool.  No luck.

Tom

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18 minutes ago, northmount said:

Some are pretty hard so may not cut even with a high end bandsaw.  I tried touching up a set on a lathe using a carbide tool.  No luck.

Tom

I'm thinking harbor freight ones not the "best" steel.lol

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2 minutes ago, Mattsbagger said:

I'm thinking harbor freight ones not the "best" steel.lol

The ones I tried were pretty cheap too.  Princess Auto here in Canada. About $15 for a set of about 10 drive punches.  Really thick edges with a steep taper.

Tom

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I make them once in a while for people who don't have the equipment or know somebody who does. I start with the cheaper round punches and slowly grind half away, dipping often to keep them cool. Use a fresh clean coarse wheel and a light touch. The more you hog into the wheel the more friction you make, the more heat you make, and it really doesn't go all that much faster. It just burns up your punch. After that I start to take some of the bevel down to a flatter angle. The flatter bevel makes them punch cleaner with less undercutting. Normally a few passes on the wheel and then to my belts on the knife grinders to finish the bevel and remove grind and grit marks. I work through the grits to 1200 and then finish the edges in the slack belt section. I do the final buff on the edges with a soft wheel and compound.  Takes a little time but they do the job. Here are a couple I did a few weeks ago. Sometimes I will flatten the top of the shank if asked also. Some like that flat top vs. the slight dome. 

IMG_0003.JPG

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9 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

I make them once in a while for people who don't have the equipment or know somebody who does. I start with the cheaper round punches and slowly grind half away, dipping often to keep them cool. Use a fresh clean coarse wheel and a light touch. The more you hog into the wheel the more friction you make, the more heat you make, and it really doesn't go all that much faster. It just burns up your punch. After that I start to take some of the bevel down to a flatter angle. The flatter bevel makes them punch cleaner with less undercutting. Normally a few passes on the wheel and then to my belts on the knife grinders to finish the bevel and remove grind and grit marks. I work through the grits to 1200 and then finish the edges in the slack belt section. I do the final buff on the edges with a soft wheel and compound.  Takes a little time but they do the job. Here are a couple I did a few weeks ago. Sometimes I will flatten the top of the shank if asked also. Some like that flat top vs. the slight dome. 

IMG_0003.JPG

Wow! That's a lot more work than I was thinking!! Do you ever offer them for sale?

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Not to take away from all the cut punches (good idea by the way) but wouldn't something like that be done with a clicker die?

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Cradom, 

A clicker die to do that would be really expensive and not likely to pay for itself in many shops. It would take a pretty good die maker to get one right. Everybody I've been around doing these scalloped edges uses a single punch, one at a time. I have some straight scalloping chisels that cut several scallops at time, but they will only do straight lines -- chaps and bag work mostly - the curves on these straps require the single punches. The scallops on the chisels are usually smaller than these scallops too.  

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Bruce, those custom half punches are amazing. I have ready made ones and the corners tend to chip because of how thin the punch gets. Great work.

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