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Who's making quality mauls these days?

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To piggyback on this topic, (hope I'm not hijacking it!), I'd like to know what the difference is with using a round versus tapered or flat head maul is? Specifically, the round and tapered. I see that the Craftool Pro flat maul by Tandy is half of the weight. I've been using an older rawhide flathead maul. My stamping experience is mostly with Sheridan style but I would like to do some more Basketweave work as well. If you only had one, which would be the best?

Edited by Lakejumper

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I have a large selection of hammers, mallets, mauls. They all have their own places.

 

The larger stamps like basket weave certainly can benefit from a heavier implement, that's why I am happy with the Tandy Tapered 2lbd maul. But for more delicate carving/tooling, & with thinner leather I have a couple or three much lighter rawhide mallets. 

As for the tapered maul, for me, the taper allows you to hold the handle more naturally, plus the actual swing, of the tool,  is less, as the wider top of the taper allows for a shorter swing. More like a tapping, than swinging. 

 

Which one is the best? It mostly depends all on what you are doing at the time...

 

Yes, you can certainly use a heavier maul with less force, for lighter carving,  but it's difficult to swing a light maul or mallet with much force. You need to use the correct tool for the job, that's where a piece of scrap leather can be used, to trial your tools, and hitting implements.

Chas 

Edited by ChasCS

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13 hours ago, ContactCement said:

I recently made this PVC Pipe Leather Maul.  Here's how.

I  used hard maple turned it to a perfect cylinder with a slight waste wood taper on the working end and a shoulder the thickness of the PVC pipe. Flatten and fine tune its diameter with fine sandpaper and a hard sanding block using the wood lathe. Check the diameter as you go using cheap digital calipers in several places  Do not make it too loose. If it slips on by hand you have made it too small. Make sure its a snug fit. But not so tight it damages the PVC. The Two part epoxy used will act as a temporary lubricant work fast. Use a mallet larger than the handle diameter and a hard flat surface to contact the PVC pipe then drive the wood into the pipe. Now let the epoxy harden and cure. Place the whole mallet back in the lathe and trim both the wood and PVC pipe even.  The PVC maul was tool light all alone so I pounded a lead bar round on my anvil. Next I drove the lead through a 1 1/4 hole in hardwood to shape it. Finally I drilled a 1 1/4" hole into the maul then drove the lead into the mallet. Yes the lead hit bottom out and mushroomed a little. No big deal.  This is a nice diameter and weight. This PVC plastic is in my opinion very tough 280 psi and currently is not leaving dandruff and it has not cracked or split. I have not noticed indentations so far in the surface of the PVC maul.  No its not the celebrity brand name with an exotic wood handle and metal turned in a metal lathe.  The stamps and tooling leather frankly don't care who made it or what brand it is. Keep in mind not all plastics are the same and the picky stamps do not tolerate every type of plastic. Some black plastics dent easily and others will either chip or flake or split. I don't know how long mine will last but its dirt cheap and it works good enough for me as of now.  Buyer beware I purchased a name brand stamp set and a magnet will not even stick to them. Yes you guessed it the basket weave stamp broke. Cash in the trash.  While I can still edit. The overall length is 8" and the PVC pipe length trimmed in the lathe glued to the wood is 3 1/4"  Nothing magical about these measurements. The diameter doesn't block my view like a larger diameter wood maul with similar weight. This is my first functional PVC proto type leather maul. A harder denser wood and a little more length may increase the weight a little. The lead really added weight fast and cheap. The outer PVC diameter is approximately 2 3/8"   Also friends or handymen even stores may simply give you the cut off plastic pipe scraps too short to use for plumbing. My final closing thought about brand name mauls.  Are they throw away? Do they last forever? Are they even warranted?  I have never seen a replacement striking sleeve for the super expensive fancy machined metals turned on a metal lathe. If your leather craft projects sell for big money and allow for cash in the trash that your choice and fine by me. I can barely afford to purchase stamps and leather. Have fun everyone.

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You did a good job on that. Very nice.

It should serve you very well. Thanks for sharing it.

 

Chas

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I  have not tested this one yet for durability for use with leather stamps. Woodcraft has a Wood River smaller 14 oz chisel mallet. For $19.99 and a 90 day warranty it may be worth looking into. I'll probably get one from the local store and beat on those picky ill tempered leather stamps. I think the plating plugs the stamp design and can make a leather crafter think their current maul or mallet is ineffective or defective. There are some copies of it the wood river chisel mallet online for less and I doubt any are warranted. A I always say some off brands may be cash in the trash. Besides if it fails I may get a chunk of plastic and turn a replacement outer sleeve. Either way it not a huge financial loss. t*ndy charges $12.99 to ship their poly maul making it a bit pricy even when on sale. I don't have the Midas touch nor am I wealthy.  https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wr-chisel-mallet-14oz?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C576328b569702d31fb000993

Edited by ContactCement

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That is not an appropriate mallet for leather carving. It's made primarily for wood carving, where you are hitting mostly wooden handled chisels. The metal handle will not absorb the force of the head hitting the metal leather carving tools like an appropriate leather carving maul with stacked leather handle. The return policy will certainly be handy for you, if you are unhappy with it.  ;-)

I understand your sentiment about affordability, but it would be advisable to save up and purchase a quality mallet or maul, that you will enjoy using. Something that will compliment your tool set and carving, for many years to come.

Too bad shipping can be so expensive. Sometimes you can find similar or the same items, on Amazon that include free shipping. 

Chas

Edited by ChasCS

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Chas, Thank you for the info on the maul versus mallet. I also found some more info on this forum.

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55 minutes ago, Lakejumper said:

Chas, Thank you for the info on the maul versus mallet. I also found some more info on this forum.

You will always be much happier, if using the appropriate tool for the specific job at hand. 

There are those mallets which have two different interchangeable faces for hitting with, that are relatively cheap.

 

Chas

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Clay Miller makes some great mauls at good prices. 

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This website has reasonable prices. http://www.wrising.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7  I  personally chose to purchase the 2 lb rawhide maul with defect and the 1 lb hammer style poly mallet-white. I am very satisfied and happy with both products shipped to me. I purchased my 2 items for the price of a single  "name brand" or popular celebrity maul.  The poly hammer was on sale over the holidays.

 

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