Jump to content
gandgphi

Making A Leather Belt

Recommended Posts

Hi all I recently made my very first belt but did not quite love the end result so I am going to make another. These are the steps that I believe I must do in order to make a belt. Critique and insight very welcome

  • Using a Tandy belt blank I measured out where the center hole that fits me goes
  • I punch the center hole and two holes on each side about 1" on center
  • I make another mark and cut about 4" away from the outermost hole
  • Used #3 beveler to shave the front and back of each edge of the belt
  • Dampen the belt and apply the eco flow leather dye until the desired color is reached on both sides and edges
  • Wait a few hours for belt to dry
  • Buff the belt
  • Moisten the edges of the belt about a foot at a time and then burnish using a wood slicker
  • Apply finish (leather balm with atom wax) and buff belt
  • Attach buckle

What I didn't like about the first belt I made is that the back of the belt was fairly rough and fuzzy. Is there anything I can do to make this better? Also, it seemed like some of the dye came off once I applied the finisher as there are visibly lighter areas where the original leather color shows a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can use gum tragacanth on the rough side and it will help the fibers lay down.  I have the issue with dye coming out with leather balm too.  What I have researched and found is go heavy on the first the coat.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, nolimitmp25 said:

You can use gum tragacanth on the rough side and it will help the fibers lay down.  I have the issue with dye coming out with leather balm too.  What I have researched and found is go heavy on the first the coat.

 

Gun trag goes on after dyeing correct? And when you say go heavy on the first coat you are talking about the dyeing and not the leather balm right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll be amazed at how much the back side will smooth out with gum trag, or even water, with a good rubbing with a wood slicker, or better yet a glass burnisher. I've noticed that glass burnisher works better in one direction than another. Something about the grain.  It takes a LOT of dye to do the backside if you haven't smoothed it out beforehand. The absorption rate is amazing when it's rough. So, yes, you also save on dye! I try to let my dye job dry for 24 hours if at all possible, then buff. If that's not practical, at least overnight. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You need a lot of elbo grease to get all of the pigment off the belt. When you think it is about right, get a clean cloth and do it again. If you would like a nice even color try dip dyeing. If you want to go brown  try Weavers dark neets foot oil. They also sell a brown dye that you can  add to the oil . You can go from very light to dark.The best part about the oil dye is no bleeding. Do a quick wipe and you are done. You can use any finish you like. I think they have a video.

jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...