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Hey Everyone!

 

i've just moved home and am setting up my leatherwork studio again. i had a solid table in my last studio but its not mine. i need to buy one and i was wondering what kind of work bench or table you all use to do your leatherwork on? especially all the hammering and tooling.

pictures would be very helpfull and all comments/ advice welcome !

 

thanks for your time and advice with this,

s

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There are a lot of plans by Googling, or on Pinterest. I got my plans off of Pinterest, then adapted them to my height and size requirements. A good solid top is essential. I used MDF, well supported by 2x4's underneath. The desk is where I do my stamping, and it's not ideal, as it's not supported in the middle where I stamp. Ideally it would be supported right under the area where the stamping is done. It's going to have to do for now, I can't spend that much time standing and bending over the actual worktable to stamp. 

bench1.jpg

bench2.jpg

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I use a drafting table that I got for free. It is a 5 foot metal table with a wood adjustable top although I keep it flat. I can't find a manufacturer name but it looks like a Hamilton. I'm sure you could make your own table using the legs and a top as Earl Ash suggested if you don't want to purchase one already made. Good luck with your decision.

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I really think the metal leg assembly is a keeper. In that the adjustable legs option, not just height wise but non-level floors. I have concrete floor with low areas for drains and did build assemblies like this you have shown to address just these options and obstacles. 

I initally thought of your question and came to question of really! Needing both a nice seperate cutting area like Alpha made and then a carving & stamping area. 

What i thought is somehow building in some  “quiet” surface for stamping and the general snap or rivet and addressing noise. 

So the layering of particle board with in between a mat of soft rubber like a horse stall mat. This could be say done with sheet goods from the builders/hardware box store. Utilizing them metal leg assemblies show above i think would Rock!

have a great day!

Floyd

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thanks everyone for sharing,

 

what do you all think of these workbenches....

the first one is basic and i wonder would the top really take much hammering?

the second one looks more sturdy than the first one i think,

the third one looks about the best for my needs but opinions and advice are really appreciated !

@Earl Ash- i would do what you did with he legs but I'm assuming that is america?  it would be good for me to get something in ireland 

@alpha2- i love the look of your work bench, but i would imagine those casters would take some abuse really after a bit if hammering. and perhaps the wood too?

 

@brmax- what do you think of these three work benches i have my eye on? your advice sound great, i will definitely see if i can get a rubber mat for my bench.

 

thank you all very much!

 

 

 

 

work bench.tiff

workbench2.tiff

workbench 3.tiff

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2 hours ago, SonderingSusan said:

thanks everyone for sharing,

 

what do you all think of these workbenches....

the first one is basic and i wonder would the top really take much hammering?

the second one looks more sturdy than the first one i think,

the third one looks about the best for my needs but opinions and advice are really appreciated !

@Earl Ash- i would do what you did with he legs but I'm assuming that is america?  it would be good for me to get something in ireland 

@alpha2- i love the look of your work bench, but i would imagine those casters would take some abuse really after a bit if hammering. and perhaps the wood too?

 

@brmax- what do you think of these three work benches i have my eye on? your advice sound great, i will definitely see if i can get a rubber mat for my bench.

 

thank you all very much!

 

 

 

 

work bench.tiff

workbench2.tiff

workbench 3.tiff

My vote is for number 3. The first one is definitely out of the question because there is no place for your legs while sitting. Plus, number 3 looks sturdy and will last you a long time. I would put some kind of material on the top however that won't scratch up your leather.

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I don't hammer on the wood. There's always a piece of granite below the hammering. The casters are VERY heavy duty. The next size up was way overkill for the application.

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thanks @JMcC for the feed back. 

 

what do u think of the second work bench btw? its just located more conveinintly to me.

i think you are right the 3rd one is the best though, think i will go with it - thanks again its lovely to hear what other leather workers think.

hey @alpha2, well thats okay then, you could always do your hammering over the legs of the table? it looks great btw, wow , very cool you made it yourself , very impressive!

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Well due to further frustration of acquiring a HD table with no success I’ve decided to use the current scrap wood laying around to build a table frame, my woodwork skills are lousy but my current work space is irritating me Beyond belief.

 

803CE359-F23B-4F71-8D1C-5C4E66E1170D.jpegWill be shopping for a hard top tomorrow to complete phase 1.

Edited by Orangeleather

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I like them all!

The second is nice for a wall unit setup as it looks about 2’ feet depth. Im not sure its build material. The top i assume would be an additional item locally obtained. I’m suspecting it is a metal tube structure for the legs. Im not sure yet totally because price ? I could be partial here.

the first is nice in that it is assembled pretty easy and looks heavy duty, it has a lower shelf easily for use. I again think or assume the wood panel product needs obtained locally. What i do see as a need to address here is the thickness of the tops all of them, but here it has to be addressed so being smooth at edges or flush with metal. This one maybe offers the widest support? Or depth

The third is handy, but i might again assume the top or butcher block, style panel is obtained locally though with the price surely it comes with. So with respect I think i like the metalic legs/ stands from the global supplier that was posted above. I just think they are a better support and at 30euro each not to bad to build with vs the total 345$ for that other unit. That seems to steep.  Although still the need to obtain a top for some choices.

I guess have to ask to better help is it a wall unit that best suits your shop at this bench or table work area. 

Floyd

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My main workbench is 8' long by 2' deep. It's big enough for general assembly and cutting out from butts or backs -- but it's not deep enough for laying out an entire shoulder or side. It's perfect for strap work. Got most of my tools along the wall behind it and it's not too deep that I can't grab a tool without reaching. Height is the same as my kitchen worktop, 90cm. These dimensions work fine for both me at 5'11" and my girlfriend at 5'2". I'd really love a 4x8' layout table but I can't justify the space in my workshop.

I looked at several different sources of pre-made and flat-pack benches. I wasn't going to get any change out of £200. Then I went down the DIY store and bought ten 2x3s, a pack of attic flooring and a bucket of screws for under £60. An afternoon later I had a very solid bench and I'm no carpenter. I used a £20 cordless drill, a £10 saw and a T-square, all of which I had already.

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hey @brmax

 

the second unit comes with the metal top on the table - and its 200euro 

I've just moved my studio, and the space it would fit would be in the centre of the room. i would go for the legs from global, but i think they are only based in the USA and it would take some time for it to arrive and maybe a nice bit extra to ship making it not such  good deal. 

 

the third work bench comes with everything you see in the picture. and , it is expensive / but if it worked well i would be happy with it. and its not much more than the one in the second picture really ? 

 

 

 

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hey @Matt S

 

your products look really good on etsy . nicely done !  would you have a picture of your workbench by any chance?

it sounds legit.

Edited by SonderingSusan

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Susan,

If you have a space on a wall, you can build a very sturdy workbench by screwing a horizontal beam to the wall (2x4" by however long you wish to make the table).  Screw the beam to the wall at the height you want, then make a table top frame out of 2x4" lumber and top it with plywood or whatever material you wish to use.  Just make certain the top is at least 1.5" thick.  Working on the floor, make a couple of support legs from 4x4" lumber and lag bolt them to the underside of the table top in the two corners.  Cut the legs so they are the proper height that when the top is set onto the wall beam, the legs will support the underside of the top.  Now have someone help you flip the table right side up and set the rear edge on top of the wall beam, bolt the top to the beam, build a shelf underneath the table to strengthen it and provide storage space.

This sounds more complicated than it is to build and I will post a few pictures tonight when I return home.  It makes an extremely sturdy bench top and the cost is minimal.  Only caveat is you must have some blank wall space to attach the bench/table top.

Gary

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what does everyone think of this bench?

its 195 euro/ compared to the others?

 

all opinions welcome ! 

@brmax?

wb5.tiff

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I love wood, its been a way of relaxing in the many little things i built through the years. In respect to all the wood craftsman and many my own relatives. I myself went a bit more towards an industrialist so in all my hot air, respectfully I go for the Red.  

I think in its assembly you would be much happier, and possibly it comes with the lower secondary bracing. 

Some want many or certain shop furnishings resembling their ideas. This drives their decisions, also the work.  And I want to see and appreciate the craft in everyones work, so try to give my opinion to help them best. This from an old wrench that likes boats, leather and my retirement work, Canvas!

good luck

Floyd

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1 hour ago, Matt S said:

My main workbench is 8' long by 2' deep. It's big enough for general assembly and cutting out from butts or backs -- but it's not deep enough for laying out an entire shoulder or side. It's perfect for strap work. Got most of my tools along the wall behind it and it's not too deep that I can't grab a tool without reaching. Height is the same as my kitchen worktop, 90cm. These dimensions work fine for both me at 5'11" and my girlfriend at 5'2". I'd really love a 4x8' layout table but I can't justify the space in my workshop.

I looked at several different sources of pre-made and flat-pack benches. I wasn't going to get any change out of £200. Then I went down the DIY store and bought ten 2x3s, a pack of attic flooring and a bucket of screws for under £60. An afternoon later I had a very solid bench and I'm no carpenter. I used a £20 cordless drill, a £10 saw and a T-square, all of which I had already.

I took the Pinterest plans for a 4x8 table, and cut two feet off the end, for a 4x6. All I could fit in my room. I wish I had the full 8' length, but have found a way to get past it. You do what you can, and fake the rest!

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2 hours ago, SonderingSusan said:

what does everyone think of this bench?

its 195 euro/ compared to the others?

 

all opinions welcome ! 

@brmax?

wb5.tiff

I think that looks alright but I would put the front support back half way between the two ends in order to have better leg room while sitting.Brian

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Phase 2

1x 4x4ft x 18mm sheet half'd & joined together for strength, just need a protection agent but I don't want marine varnish.

@SonderingSusan nice bench you have there.

20180111_120116~2.jpg

Edited by Orangeleather

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Phase 2



1x 4x4ft x 18mm sheet half'd & joined together for strength, just need a protection agent but I don't want marine varnish.


You could mix up some polyester resin ( don't need "food grade" ) with catalyst and give it two coats of that, work fast and you'll not be needing to thin the coats with anything..sand after the first one has "cured" ( although it doesn't "lift grain" as much as marine varnish .. go ever the second one ( when it has "cured" ) with a scotch pad..if you add pigment ( for polyester resin ) to the resin you can get any colour that you can get pigments to mix to.

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17 hours ago, garypl said:

Susan,

If you have a space on a wall, you can build a very sturdy workbench by screwing a horizontal beam to the wall (2x4" by however long you wish to make the table).  Screw the beam to the wall at the height you want, then make a table top frame out of 2x4" lumber and top it with plywood or whatever material you wish to use.  Just make certain the top is at least 1.5" thick.  Working on the floor, make a couple of support legs from 4x4" lumber and lag bolt them to the underside of the table top in the two corners.  Cut the legs so they are the proper height that when the top is set onto the wall beam, the legs will support the underside of the top.  Now have someone help you flip the table right side up and set the rear edge on top of the wall beam, bolt the top to the beam, build a shelf underneath the table to strengthen it and provide storage space.

This sounds more complicated than it is to build and I will post a few pictures tonight when I return home.  It makes an extremely sturdy bench top and the cost is minimal.  Only caveat is you must have some blank wall space to attach the bench/table top.

Gary

Here are some photos - I use this bench for reloading, but it is solid as a rock and would also work well for leatherworking.

16AA71F2-CAC2-4C7E-9BCA-1F418CB1C750.jpeg.8062aff2035d5ab2b768a7a6bd7e144e.jpeg

2DE63579-2256-494E-AE3F-A4A2D21B8188.jpeg.68a996a7e853be0ea284a233f7945b0d.jpeg

5D419A7F-69FB-426F-8016-555FACE78CA3.jpeg.4952906f002b90b037523acf9e7e4b0f.jpeg

DB8FE97D-84C9-4404-899A-B0042FDCFECB.jpeg.0b89d0d5fcb58737fdf3ebdf2e3e5426.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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29 minutes ago, mikesc said:

 


You could mix up some polyester resin ( don't need "food grade" ) with catalyst and give it two coats of that, work fast and you'll not be needing to thin the coats with anything..sand after the first one has "cured" ( although it doesn't "lift grain" as much as marine varnish .. go ever the second one ( when it has "cured" ) with a scotch pad..if you add pigment ( for polyester resin ) to the resin you can get any colour that you can get pigments to mix to.

Thanks Mike, 

Would that mixture harden the wood surface more or mainly give it the long life protection?

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It would do both..polyester will harden the surface ( and it penetrates well so will harden the top "ply" and maybe the one under it depending on the thickness of each "ply" ) the protection is that it is pretty impervious to most things ( although it will stain a bit with some dyes )..although it can be diluted with acetone ( which is a pretty aggressive solvent ) before curing.. once it has "cured" ( catalysed ) the chemical make up changes and the resulting structure and chemical composition of the molecules is much more resilient, even to acetone..

Think of the decks and hulls and superstructure and the lockers on deck etc of fishing boats..they are pretty impervious to sea water , oil, petrol ( gasoline for the "left side of pondians" ) and most chemicals..and the abrasion resistance is improved.There used to be a place in Dudley ( and another I think it was in Stockton , Teeside ) that sold the plywood that was polyester resin impregnated and faced ( dark brown and red in colour ) that made up some of the old British Railways wagons ( not the really old ones from when I was a kid, but the ones that came in in the 70s ) when they took the wagons out of service you could buy entire sheets of the plywood for scrap..there is a similar place in France in Nancy and another in Strasbourg )..There is a name for this kind of plywood, ( but I can't remember it *) it is probably available commercially now anyway..but would be stupidly expensive..and for what you need , you can impregnate it yourself.

Just a couple of things..don't be tempted to add more catalyst than it says ( usually less than 3% by volume ) ..it will appear to be doing nothing, and then start to cure very fast and you'll have a solid tin of the stuff and a solid brush too ..and don't sleep in the room that the thing is curing in, the "outgassing" smell is a mix of gases / vapours in "the styrene family" ..and is bad for you..as in very bad for you..best do it outside ..or wear a mask or have the room well ventilated while you are working ( windows open etc ) ..you can close the windows and leave the room 'til next day when you are done with each coat..when you go back in..open the windows and let the gas and vapours dissipate before continuing work..a bit of "background" heat in the room will speed up the "curing rate"..

*Anyone who remembers what it ( or similar ) is called where they are ( wherever they are ) ?

Edited by mikesc

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17 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I think that looks alright but I would put the front support back half way between the two ends in order to have better leg room while sitting.Brian

 

 

20 hours ago, SonderingSusan said:

what does everyone think of this bench?

its 195 euro/ compared to the others?

 

all opinions welcome ! 

@brmax?

wb5.tiff

I agree with Rocky, the table looks solid but as is, there isn't room for your legs while sitting. Move the front brace back and it would work well I think.

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