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plasmaguy

Singer table modifications

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This is my first table purchase in hopes of mounting the good 'old Consew 206.

This table had a Singer serger installed so the cut out needs to be filled up. My plans are to useseveral layers of 3/4" AC plywood to make an insert to level everything out.

The hinges are broken off. Does the insert need to be removable or fixed?

This is my first rodeo. I appreciate all the information.

Tom

IMG_20180413_173455.jpg

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I'd make a new top.  2 layers of 3/4" plywood or MDF with Arborite or other laminate on top.  Much less problem than filling the space.  Allows you to place motor and machine where it fits best for you.   Rout out a ledge for the machine to sit in.

Hinges on a flatbed are handy but not necessary, but are nice to have. 

Tom

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I totaly agree with Northmount, if you have plenty of the a/c plywood and handy with some routing go for it. No doubt nix the old top in any case, sorry but i think you would be better in the long run. 

If im thinking correct the hinges are replaceable on many machine heads. These i believe can be upgraded in newer styles if wanted.

I’m sure several can and would gladly help with tips here on the outline, or rather the recessed routing it requires. 

Good day

Floyd

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2 hours ago, Northmount said:

I'd make a new top.  2 layers of 3/4" plywood or MDF with Arborite or other laminate on top.  Much less problem than filling the space.  Allows you to place motor and machine where it fits best for you.   Rout out a ledge for the machine to sit in.

Hinges on a flatbed are handy but not necessary, but are nice to have. 

Tom

 

1 hour ago, brmax said:

I totaly agree with Northmount, if you have plenty of the a/c plywood and handy with some routing go for it. No doubt nix the old top in any case, sorry but i think you would be better in the long run. 

If im thinking correct the hinges are replaceable on many machine heads. These i believe can be upgraded in newer styles if wanted.

I’m sure several can and would gladly help with tips here on the outline, or rather the recessed routing it requires. 

Good day

Floyd

Tom and Floyd,

This is what I love about this forum. Going the new route never entered my mind. I do have enough plywood to make a new top and scratch the fill-in method.

Thank you both !!!!

Tom

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I'm voting for a new table-top made from Plywood. I personally have little confidence in MDF for structural elements.

The Consew 206RB is just a re-badged Seiko and Seiko is nice enough to include table top dimension drawings in their manuals. Here's one from the Seiko STH-8BLD-3 manual:

Screen Shot 2018-04-13 at 9.29.43 PM.png

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Just now, Uwe said:

I'm voting for a new table-top made from Plywood. I personally have little confidence in MDF for structural elements.

The Consew 206RB is just a re-badged Seiko and Seiko is nice enough to include table top dimension drawings in their manuals. Here's one from the Seiko STH-8BLD-3 manual:

Screen Shot 2018-04-13 at 9.29.43 PM.png

Hello Uwe,

Thank you sir for the excellent drawing.

Tom

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Also check out this thread for examples on what you can achieve with a manual router, skill and patience.

 

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