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2 hours ago, dikman said:

Gary, as Brian said if you buy an already-built one (look for reviews first to see what people think of it) then all you need to learn about is the slicer programme that converts to the G code needed to print. I use Slicer, it and Cura are probably the most widely used. This part of it isn't to hard to master. As for filament it's pretty cheap in the US, just start with your basic PLA.

It gets complicated if you start fiddling with the operating system!

Dikman, if I do get a printer I will keep things as simple as possible!  I don’t see myself trying to create programs - just thought it would be interesting to play around with a new gadget!

Gary

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Of course! It's always nice to have a new toy :lol:. I reckon you'll enjoy playing with one. There are many free files available on thingiverse for all sorts of things - some of them even useful.

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11 hours ago, Uwe said:

Even without getting into G-Code, there's still a fair amount of twiddling with the settings to get things to print right. 

I printed  batch of the links last night just to see if my printer was up to it and how they turned out. Turns out printer is up to the task, but the links connect somewhat loosely. The original photos look like the links connect quite solidly. On my links there's a tiny gap between the wall of the linking elements, allowing for play. They might still work, but I don't have any suitable zippers to test with. 

Nozzle size, layer thickness, filament material, fill, wall thickness, alignment of the planets, and other parameters may affect certain dimensions. That's not a problem if you print little Yoda figurines, but mechanical interconnecting parts require a little more precision. Like cutters, there may also be settings to print "on", "inside" or "outside" the line but the software driving my printer is not super fancy.  Alternatively, the CAD model may need to be tweaked to compensate for printer variations. I have a feeling that no two printers will produce truly identical parts, only parts that are quite close.

Here's a picture of my batch of links. I took just under six hours to print 27 links with PLA filament, 0.2mm layer thickness and 65% fill.

IMG_0990.jpg

Here's a picture of the sideways curvature play my connected links have::

IMG_0992.jpg

 

Hi Uwe, I have to be quick as dinner is ready. If it holds the zip firmly it will stay quite straight. If not increase you flow a little or as below. The compression on the zip working together should make it straight.

M190 S65.000000       That's my bed temperature
M109 S215.000000      This is the temperature I'm running the filament at. This is pretty hot but I like it to really connect well. Causes a little swell. Also I have the 1.75mm filament set at 1.74mm to offset variations in the filament thickness and that also increases the size a little but makes for good connection. Another note: I am running a .4mm nozzle.

; -- START GCODE --
;Sliced at: Sat 18-08-2018 13:00:48
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2mm
;                Walls: 0.8mm
;                Top and Bottom: 0.8mm
;                Fill: 30 percent
;Print speed: 45
;Print time: 28 minutes                     (That is for 3 pieces= 9.3mins each and is possibly why your holes look better than mine:dunno:
;Filament used: 1.747m 5.0g
;Filament cost: 0.19

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These guides look great. I could really do with one for the zips I use (YKK brass No5 is think).

@Uwe Do you know or suspect where the distortion is occuring -- is the body of each link warping? Or is it an excessive difference in the internal diameter of the pivot holes and the external diameter of the corresponding studs? If it's the latter perhaps you could replace the studs with holes and introduce some sort of pivot pin? Maybe even reaming the holes to dimension if they aren't parallel or out of round?

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6 hours ago, Matt S said:

@Uwe Do you know or suspect where the distortion is occuring -- is the body of each link warping? Or is it an excessive difference in the internal diameter of the pivot holes and the external diameter of the corresponding studs? If it's the latter perhaps you could replace the studs with holes and introduce some sort of pivot pin? Maybe even reaming the holes to dimension if they aren't parallel or out of round?

The sideways wiggle room is due to a gap/play between the walls where the parts connect. The part should be snug, but mine have play. The holes and pivot points are fine, actually.

I think I'll rustle up a link in Fusion 360 and see how the dimensions come out when printed. I feel the outer legs with the holes need to be stronger on my printed parts. The inner leg with the pivot points is plenty strong.

I have a YKK metal zipper from Tandy Leather that I was going to use to make some luggage. I'll try to make a link to fit that, just for practice and 3D printing fun.

 

Edited by Uwe

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Well here is the guide stl file for the YKK NO 5 nylon and as it turns out metal as well. No 5 YKK zip guide.stl

I must admit I cheated a bit here as after some measurements as maths I just scaled the No 3 guide up exactly to 1.5 and this is it.

If anyone wants to give me the exact measurements of the width of the teeth done up in mm of any other sizes I will do the stl files for them to test out as well.

Here firstly for those that are curious is my old humble but very busy printer. The large fan to the right is just to cool things quicker when the print is finished.The box in the far right bottom corner is the ring box prints which is what keeps the printer busy a lot.

DSC03713_resize.JPG

This shows the No 5 guide now finished and the orientation I so far recommend. I might try laying them in the Y direction and see if more holes improve any.

DSC03719_resize.JPG

I tested for sewing foot height on my little cylinder and the big cowboy and no problems but it may be a bit high for some machines......please let me know and by how much less if necessary. Note the height and width is about 1/2".

DSC03722_resize.JPG

DSC03723_resize.JPG

DSC03726_resize.JPG

DSC03727_resize.JPG

DSC03728_resize.JPG

DSC03729_resize.JPG

Here I have attached it to a No 5 YKK metal and it is a quite tight push.

DSC03733_resize.JPG

Note that the back dishes in a little but seems to lay down flat well enough to work alright.You may want to scale it up 1%.

DSC03734_resize.JPG

DSC03735_resize.JPG

I did a back check to make sure that it had not spread too far for the nylon and it was fine.

DSC03737_resize.JPG

DSC03738_resize.JPG

DSC03739_resize.JPG

DSC03740_resize.JPG

I think I might start a new post in the 3D section that has combination of links of other projects I've posted here over the last couple of years like these below. What do you think?:feedback:.

 

 

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Riri #6 is:

Zipper Teeth: 6mm

Tape Width: 15mm per side (32mm total zipper width)

 

Riri #4 is:

Zipper Teeth: 4mm

Tape Width: 12mm per side (26mm total zipper width)

Edited by thefanninator

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Brian, I reckon putting them all in one place (3D section) is a good idea. If you don't you'll soon have the Mods giving you a severe beating with a wet flannel!:lol:

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7 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

If anyone wants to give me the exact measurements of the width of the teeth done up in mm of any other sizes I will do the stl files for them to test out as well.

#5 zipper teeth are exactly 5mm across. This is the standard measurement system. A #4 is 4mm. A #10 is 10mm across, et al. However, the vertical height varies a bit as the size increases. It would be best to buy one zipper of each size and composition to ensure accurate 3D printing of your alignment parts.

I mostly use #5, #7 and #10 replacement zippers on jackets, boots and purses that come in for repair (the customer usually specifies the width, or else I replace the same size as original). Most are either brass or aluminum teeth. But, I also use the much taller and stronger Vislon hard plastic tooth zippers. The vertical profile is much taller than metal or plastic loop zippers. All are YKK brand.

IHTH

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Thought I'd print out the zipper feet, just to see how they worked. Came out fine, although there's a slight deformation at the top edge of the rounded bits sticking forward. Doesn't affect how they work though, and they're a nice snug fit when they snap together.

Pity I don't actually sew in any zips. :lol:

 

Zip1a.jpg

Zip2a.jpg

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2 hours ago, dikman said:

Thought I'd print out the zipper feet, just to see how they worked. Came out fine, although there's a slight deformation at the top edge of the rounded bits sticking forward. Doesn't affect how they work though, and they're a nice snug fit when they snap together.

Pity I don't actually sew in any zips. :lol:

 

Zip1a.jpg

Zip2a.jpg

Well done ....I wonder if your gap between nozzle and the plate might be a little wide. I have some zipping spare here if you want to try sometime.

DSC03755_resize.JPG

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21 hours ago, thefanninator said:

Riri #6 is:

Zipper Teeth: 6mm

Tape Width: 15mm per side (32mm total zipper width)

 

Riri #4 is:

Zipper Teeth: 4mm

Tape Width: 12mm per side (26mm total zipper width)

Can I ask if you have checked the width of the teeth with vernier callipers as in my pictures below. If so and that is correct I could do a few scaled size pieces and send 1 of each for you to let me know which ones fit best or you could send me a bit of each if you prefer. P.M. me the info if you like.

 

16 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

#5 zipper teeth are exactly 5mm across. This is the standard measurement system. A #4 is 4mm. A #10 is 10mm across, et al. However, the vertical height varies a bit as the size increases. It would be best to buy one zipper of each size and composition to ensure accurate 3D printing of your alignment parts.

I mostly use #5, #7 and #10 replacement zippers on jackets, boots and purses that come in for repair (the customer usually specifies the width, or else I replace the same size as original). Most are either brass or aluminum teeth. But, I also use the much taller and stronger Vislon hard plastic tooth zippers. The vertical profile is much taller than metal or plastic loop zippers. All are YKK brand.

IHTH

Hi Wizcrafts, I went and checked my measuring all over again and went online to double check again and a #5 YKK is not 5mm wide and I have put in a link from a couple of sites that give a closer idea to the measurements. Sailrit says #5 is 6.35mm - https://www.sailrite.com/Choosing-a-Replacement-Zipper-Slider

SBS Zipper has a bigger detail chart and confirms similar measurements to mine - http://www.sbs-zipper.com/blog/standard-zipper-sizeteeth-width-specification-charts/

I have an upholstery friend in town and I will try and get a few other size zippers from him as soon as I can and get back with the info.

Here is my measurements of #5 coil

DSC03741_resize.JPG

This is on the metal #5

DSC03750_resize.JPG

Here showing the guide measurement I've supplied the stl file for here.

DSC03752_resize.JPG

These work well enough for my use and I would suggest that if anyone finds theirs a little tight or loose they need only scale it up or down a percentage to get it right. I have not done any on the thicker plastic zippers yet and they would likely need a deeper depth of hole which would not work with scaling. If anyone wants to send me any zipper pieces to make a suitable stl file for let me know.

Brian

 

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Spare zipping??? Looks like you've got enough to run a zip from here to the moon! I have a few zips that I recovered from a tent I scrapped and it fits the large guide nicely, I just don't make anything that needs zips. Still, I might as well run off a few more, just in case.

As for the nozzle clearance yep, I'll have to check it as when I set it last the weather was quite hot and now it's cold. In fact it's so cold in the shed where I have the printer that when I turned it on a couple of days ago the display was garbled and it said it was too cold to run!!!

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1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

Can I ask if you have checked the width of the teeth with vernier callipers as in my pictures below. If so and that is correct I could do a few scaled size pieces and send 1 of each for you to let me know which ones fit best or you could send me a bit of each if you prefer. P.M. me the info if you like.

I have not. I can later today.

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On 8/23/2018 at 4:55 AM, RockyAussie said:

Can I ask if you have checked the width of the teeth with vernier callipers as in my pictures below. If so and that is correct I could do a few scaled size pieces and send 1 of each for you to let me know which ones fit best or you could send me a bit of each if you prefer. P.M. me the info if you like.

As best as I can measure, yes.

zipper.jpg

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6 hours ago, thefanninator said:

As best as I can measure, yes.

zipper.jpg

WOW that is very close to the stated 6mm.Spot on with my measurement above. I think the No 5 link should work well but I will do up one on 99% and 101% as well and try them out. PM me  a place to send I will try and get you some somehow to try out.

Note: On the No 5 stl here I made for the nylon coil .....it works great but I found after a couple of days and little shrink back it is now not tight enough for the metal No 5 to hold it tightly. Fine for glue line up but not for straight to the sewing machine. I have been measuring for a few days now and so far no more shrinkage but means I will have to try one for the metal at a lesser percentage. I will let you know sometime later this week.

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After spending several days testing, printing and exploring different slicing software (SLIC3R and Simplify3D) to produce G-Code, I managed to solve some key problems I had with my original 3D printer control software. My parts are now strong and precise. Unfortunately they still won't hold my YKK metal zipper. I dialed the dimensions to 1/10th of a millimeter, but no luck - either too loose or can't press the zipper in. Perhaps my parts are too rigid now.

I had created a slight variation on the original design in my CAD program so that I could control dimensions of the part and the STL file precisely.

I'm not a zipper expert and the zipper display at my local fabric store was quite overwhelming, and they don't even carry YKK or Riri zippers. My local Tandy Leather was locking the doors as I was pulling up - I think it was because they were closing anyways.

In my experience, a single STL file can produce dozens of slightly different parts, depending on which printer, which slicing software, and which print settings you use. I couldn't even get my parts to work properly for one single zipper in three days, let alone for a dizzying array of zippers available commercially. It sure looks pretty in my Fusion 360 CAD software:

Screen Shot 2018-08-27 at 12.04.51 AM.png

So, kudos to @RockyAussie for inventing the part and actually making it work for his zippers, and thanks for giving me a shout-out.

Alas, making a product that is suitable for sale is not as simple as it seemed at first. I'm not convinced that I can produce this part in a quality that folks would consistently be happy with, so I decided I won't try to sell them.

I'm attaching the STL file (Zipper Guide low profile 8.6mm.stl) of the modified part I used (sized for my 8.6mm YKK metal zipper) If somebody can make it work for them, go for it.

IMG_1003.jpg

 

 

Edited by Uwe

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That pile looks like something for a model railway.:lol:

Thanks for providing the file, what is the nominal slot width in your version?

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My part has a 8.6mm wide slot in the CAD model and my printed version ended up within 1/100th of a millimeter.

Screen Shot 2018-08-27 at 9.17.29 AM.png

 

Here's a public link to my Fusion 360 CAD file, in case anybody wants to inspect it or tinker with it: https://a360.co/2PeQpnd (this turns out to be a very cool browser interface for viewing the part. below is a screenshot on my Chrome browser)

Screen Shot 2018-08-27 at 9.32.47 AM.png

Edited by Uwe

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Uwe;

I have all kinds of zippers in my shop. You are welcome to come up to Burton and measure all you want. I have plastic, molded plastic, aluminum and brass tooth zippers. Most are YKK, but I have a few other brands in stock. The location is on my website: www.rw-leatherworks.com

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Here is a link to a video I just finished showing one method by my very talented wife  using the zipper guide for making up care bags for crocodile bags I just completed.

For those that have been patiently waiting for some of these ...I have finally got them done to a  reasonable quality and have have checked with the postage costs. I will endeavour to  get them out this week. The postage to UK and USA is around $25AU and should take about 10 business days although inter country postage may take a bit longer:dunno:. Forgot to mention within Australia cost is about $11 express and they will go as well.

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Are these still an available option to purchase and ship to the US?

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2 minutes ago, Dun said:

Are these still an available option to purchase and ship to the US?

Yes can do if you want. Let me know what zip sizes you are using/wanting and I will get you some costs sorted out.

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Hi Brian, Thank you for the zipper-fitters you sent me. I only had one zip, and the 4mm fitted it like a frog in a sock! Well done.

Ohh yeah, the thread tree threading tool also works great. I made a minor modification, I drilled a hole in the handle so It can hang up where I know it will be when I need it. 

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