DanDSilva Report post Posted August 18, 2018 Hello. I'd like to make an all-leather Greek fisherman-style cap. So to keep it simple, I figure the crown would be made of chrome-tanned garment leather and the visor would be molded from some lightweight veg-tan I have on hand, and dyed black to match the rest of the cap with some Fiebing's which I also have (I'm going to try to buy the garment leather already dyed). My questions being: Is the design overall going to do okay in the rain as long as I let it dry overnight or longer when I get home? Is there a finish I can put on the visor so it'll remain at least a bit flexible, won't soften and deform in the rain, and the dye won't rub off? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted August 18, 2018 Seal the dye with several coats of diluted Resolene. Then apply several coats of Snow Proof paste. Even apply some soft bees wax and buff it in. Then it will be rain-shower resistant, but not totally rain proof, it will never be that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanDSilva Report post Posted August 19, 2018 Well, I'm not really concerned about completely waterproofing it, so long as it holds its shape and the dye doesn't run. What is Resolene like to work with? I take it that if you can add conditioners afterward, it must leave the surface permeable rather than forming a solid surface film. Does it tend to stiffen the leather? How does it compare to Leather Sheen? Should've mentioned before: I currently have Sof Sole Leather Lube, Wright leather conditioner with mink oil, and some old Kiwi Wet-Pruf that's dried up to the point that it has a texture like beeswax. Would any of these be useful, or should I get Snow Proof instead? I also have a block of pure beeswax. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanDSilva Report post Posted May 28, 2021 (edited) So, what I've found over the last few years is that these visors don't really need molding as long as the inner edge is just concave enough. When it's stitched into place, it'll assume a downward curl naturally. Here's an early attempt: This one has a less concave inner edge, so it curls down more: As far as the finish goes, I think just an oily/waxy water-resistant finish that's still flexible is preferable to a hard acrylic finish that might crack when creased. The first one is made with some Crazy Crow blacksmith side leather; the second is just light/midweight veg-tan with oil, Sno Seal and conditioner. Edited May 28, 2021 by DanDSilva Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
afssfA Report post Posted June 4, 2021 As far as the finish goes, I think just an oily/waxy water-resistant finish that's still flexible is preferable to a hard acrylic finish that might crack when creased. The first one is made with some Crazy Crow blacksmith side leather; the second is just light/midweight veg-tan with oil, Sno Seal and conditioner. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted June 4, 2021 anything for waterproofing leather shoes or boots will work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert03241 Report post Posted June 9, 2021 this will do the trickhttps://www.amazon.com/Marlow-White-Clear-Military-Police/dp/B0725BR2F3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=hat+rain+cover&qid=1623221322&sr=8-5 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted June 9, 2021 30 minutes ago, Bert03241 said: this will do the trickhttps://www.amazon.com/Marlow-White-Clear-Military-Police/dp/B0725BR2F3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=hat+rain+cover&qid=1623221322&sr=8-5 a bluddy plastic bag! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
