Edges - Alcohol/Oil dyes and Resolene/Sealers

[samNZJP]

Hello,

Went to a store today that had really nice wallet edges that were painted with an alcohol or oil dye instead of edge paint. They looked really good so I want to try to replicate it. Does anyone have any recommendations, maybe Fiebings, for a dye to use on edges? I'm really confused about the difference between alcohol/oil as well as this pro dye Fiebings has. Also, how do I seal the leather after it is all done? Resolene? Are there any other products? Is Tokonole the same? So confused...

Regards,

Sam

Edited September 2, 2018 by samNZJP

[bikermutt07]

I can help with the dye confusion....

I emailed Fiebings a couple of years ago about it.

Pro oil dye and pro dye are the exact same thing.

The are just phasing out the pro oil name.

So, that's a little bit less confusing.

I have used several of their standard colors as well and have no complaints. I don't know what the difference really is between dye and pro dye other than the dye generally needs more buffing. It kind of leaves somewhat of a metallic haze on the surface. Color evenness has always been good.

I haven't used any water based dyes, stains, or paints.

I started with pro (oil) dye and just never looked back, except when I couldn't find the color I wanted. Then I used the standard color dyes.

[chrisash]

Hi

Try this video about Pro Dye

 

[Stetson912]

It's a bit of a misnomer. The pigments in the pro (oil) dye are oil based pigments or so I've been told. It is still a spirit based dye. The other dyes have pigments that may/ are not be oil based. 

Feibings is great. Angelus is another good brand. Both will do well. But I recommend diluting the Angelus as it is very pigment heavy. They even make a "clear" dye that is meant for just that. 

Sealing your edges: resolene is good. Dilute 50/50 with water and apply. I imagine tan kote would work too. Wyosheen probably would work also. And I've  used plain ole beeswax and buffed it in real good. The acrylic based sealers like resolene and Angelus acrylic finish  leave a shinier edge whereas beeswax tends to be more flat. I'm.not familiar with tokanole so I can't attest to that.

[battlemunky]

I think real edges look better than painted edges most often. I've seen really nice painted edges but I've seen a lot more really nice real edges.I think that a similar amount of work goes into both of them in order to get them nice so the paint is just adding another ingredient/treatment. Its a to each their own kinda thing.

I have gotten to where I trim and sand my edges and then slick them with water (using a cocobolo or antler  as a slicker), then gum trag (I think tokonole is really similar to gum trag), and then buff with some denim, t-shirt, or canvas, whatever is laying around, and then I'll dye them with whatever color of Fiebings Pro dye I feel is right for the piece. If you step up through a few grits of sandpaper and get the edge nice and smooth, it almost takes care of itself. Then I'll use some beeswax to seal it.

I only have a little of the not Pro Dye left and because of that Weaver video have begun to phase it out and am going strictly with Pro dye.

[Tugadude]

Tokonole comes in clear and pigmented versions so it can be used to add color to edges.  My experience with beeswax is that it can be sticky if over-applied.  Blending in some paraffin might help.  Resolene or Mop-N-Glo works good if you want glossy edges.

[samNZJP]

Thanks for your answers,

 

gum trag, resolene and tokonole all the same?

 

Sam

Edited September 3, 2018 by samNZJP

[Stetson912]

Noope. Gum trag and I think tokanole are used for burnishing instead of water and soap like a lot of people do. 

Resolene is an acrylic based finish/sealant. Angelus has an acrylic finish too that's similar, and I believe tan kote is acrylic based too. Mop n glo (as I'm a recent convert) is also an acrylic based sealer.

[battlemunky]

Super not the same @samNZJP.

• Use sanding as your prep before slicking; try and get the edges as close to where you want them with sandpaper (150 grit, 300 grit, 600 grit is probably good, 1,000 grit with almost slick it on its own)
• Then use gum trag/tokonole/water as your slicking agent/agents.
  • these are similar to one another
• Then dye your edges.
• Then use resolene/mop & glo/tan kote/etc as your last step to seal the edge after the slicking is done.
  • these are similar to one another

Also, I made the assumption that you are doing most of the work by hand as well. I have no idea how well the stuff I've said will work with machines. I only do the really rough sanding with a belt sander, the rest is by hand. Should be similar but machines can generate some heat which is a variable I haven't messed with yet.

[samNZJP]

Thanks,

yeah same as you, only machines for sanding.burnishing with a machine seems to create dark patches on the edges.

sam