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COBRA class 26 sewing machine.

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It has been a long and nerve wracking struggle to choose my first leather sewing machine but I believe I have found the one I need in the Cobra class 26 model. My concern has been doing my best to make a good purchase the first time for light weight wallets, check books, journals, purses, briefcases and lots of holsters and knife sheaths no thicker than 15 oz combined thickness. I won't be making stirrups nor saddles nor anything real thick.

I live close to a great COBRA dealer and I feel this will be a real plus for me.

I'm looking for real life experience with this machine and pro's and con's of its use.

Thank you!

Sam:)

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No cons that I can think of. They are great machines and it is well suited for what you want to use it for.

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You mean the 26-18? I don't know you'll like it for  15 oz holsters.  That's gonna be upper half of that machine's thickness capacity (don't it top out at 3/8"?), and I think that maxes out at thread size 207 (and that's pushing).  

If you're sewing wallets, checkbooks 'n' such, probably okay for that - then just hand sew the holsters (they're short threads anyway).

Maybe the Cowboy 3200 is a better fit for you? If I had the space, I'd get one myself.. maybe after teh New Year ...

 

 

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While a Cobra 26 can sew 1/4 inch of veg-tan leather, it only does so with #138 thread (or possibly 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin). Either way, that thread is inadequate for securing a weapon in a working holster. The reason is that #138 thread has a breaking strength of 22 pounds per stitch. It is easy to put more stress on the stitches holding a holster together than 22 pounds, especially during a struggle, or panic situation. Ideally, each stitch should have twice the strength, calling for #277 thread.

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Now I am as confused as before I posted this thread:)

Apparently more research is needed!

Money is NOT the issue but I want the right machine if possible, with good technical support if needed.

So far, I have sewed with a Cobra class 3 and it worked very well and may work for what I need but the thinner stuff may not feed properly?????

A Janome HD3000 I demo'd at a dealer was absolutely worthless on all but the thinnest textiles:(

Oh well, life is about choices and I may be like Don Quixote dreaming 'The Impossible Dream.'

I live in Southwest Missouri, so dealers for industrial leather sewing machines are few and far between.

Thanks for the replies!

Sam:)

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Drive down to Springfield and have a look around them machines.

You wont find better sew machine technical knowledge anywhere on the planet, than right where your posting. 

You have made good choices, so keep it up. In that I think if you are considering sheaths as a typical thickness of leather. This should bump up the machine duty type. 

Doing small sized items in my opinion cannot be better done than on a flat bed. Yet many projects you will find getting up from one machine, to finish on another style. 

I think its a great time to say many cylinder arm machines have extra small cylinder size. This can be very smartly observed and a tip to understand in your designs. 

This capability being unmatched even in its same size class. Many times referred to upholstery class, typicaly threads 138 and under. In which you can see just looking around your stuff most small items are sewn with, as youve been noticing im sure. 

No matter your close to some big machines, take a ride and see what they say in person. And for sure keep an eye out for the online places. 

 

Good day

Floyd

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Thanks Floyd and may I ask what kind and model machine you use?

SLC is my favorite place and I buy lots of stuff from them and at 70 miles away, it's not to far to travel.

My nearest 'Cowboy' retailer is in DFW @ 350 miles!

So far, it's a toss up between the Class 26 and the class 3 or 4 Cobra's. All will feed and sew 3/32 to 5/8 for the 26 and up to 7/8 for the 3 and 4.

Sam:)

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4 hours ago, ComputerDoctor said:

Thanks Floyd and may I ask what kind and model machine you use?

SLC is my favorite place and I buy lots of stuff from them and at 70 miles away, it's not to far to travel.

My nearest 'Cowboy' retailer is in DFW @ 350 miles!

So far, it's a toss up between the Class 26 and the class 3 or 4 Cobra's. All will feed and sew 3/32 to 5/8 for the 26 and up to 7/8 for the 3 and 4.

Sam:)

You may not know this, but, the Cobra 441 machines have optional flat, slotted throat plates for use with soft or flimsy materials. You need to remove the feed dog to install that plate, so the machines becomes double feed. But, it is cheaper than a second dedicated walking foot machine, until you really need one. There is also a flat bed table attachment for the Cobra Class 4.

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Thanks Wiz, I appreciate it:)

Sam

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14 hours ago, ComputerDoctor said:

Now I am as confused as before I posted this thread:)

Apparently more research is needed!

...but I want the right machine if possible,...

It sounds like you’re sorting through a lot of information and gaining a better appreciation for the capabilities and limitations of various machines.

The downside to trying to find an all around machine is that it’s not great at either extreme and no one machine can do it all.  Even trying to use a machine at the ends of its capabilities often requires more than a few minutes of readjustment or replacing feed dogs, needle plates, presser feet, etc...  

The bright side is you almost can’t go wrong.  No matter what your first machine is, after a few months you’ll know exactly where it comes up short and what the next machine should be. 

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Sam, your sure welcome!

As Wiz is describing the use of different plates for flat work. Its real good information on this use for many lite projects as mentioned, great tips. 

I now try to work with canvas as much as possible so I have slowly geared up for that. As Im retired from heavy equipment and Ag mechanical service. These machines and a bit of enjoyment, im calling it work now days. 

I was able to pick up a nice used cobra class 4. This was a year or so back, and from a fella in Illinois. With this addition I considered myself ready to sew some big stitches. 

What I can say is, some machines are easily going to work your projects better. These may seem like they are all the same level, but as you hear others respectfully. The projects in their thickness and temper really benefit by different machine sizes.

 

Have a Good day

Floyd 

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Thank you my Friends! I really appreciate your advice and opinions:)

Sam

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21 hours ago, DonInReno said:

The downside to trying to find an all around machine is that it’s not great at either extreme and no one machine can do it all.

So true and I learned this the hard way. I purchased a Cobra class 4 and it works beautifully (to say the least!! its amazing) on medium to thick material but when I took the time to dumb down my machine for lighter weight stuff, it never worked like I wanted it to. Someone on here had said something along the lines of "you are trying to use a sledgehammer to crack a nut".

It was those words that got me looking for another machine to cover the thin(ish) to medium range of leather. Thats when I purchased a Juki 341 clone which is extremely similar to the Cobra Class 26. Although I had a few minor run-ins with my machine, I couldn't be happier with the two machine setup I have now. My two cents is to buy the machine that will cover the majority of the work you do first, and then a second to follow.

On 2018-10-08 at 8:50 PM, Wizcrafts said:

While a Cobra 26 can sew 1/4 inch of veg-tan leather, it only does so with #138 thread (or possibly 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin). Either way, that thread is inadequate for securing a weapon in a working holster. The reason is that #138 thread has a breaking strength of 22 pounds per stitch. It is easy to put more stress on the stitches holding a holster together than 22 pounds, especially during a struggle, or panic situation. Ideally, each stitch should have twice the strength, calling for #277 thread.

This is very, very useful information if knife sheaths are going to be made most often!

Edited by HardenGoods

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I was not implying that a Cobra 26 is limited to a quarter inch thickness. I was just agreeing that it could sew the 15-16 ounces the members wanted to sew. Later information suggests that the machine can tension #207 thread. This makes it a very good intermediate duty machine.

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Good morning!  Bringing this back up again. 

I'm finally looking for a machine that I can use on my boot top and saddle blanket/canvas with leather gusset purses.  Will also be sewing some used belts together.  I'm thinking this machine will fit the bill?  I don't see myself ever going over the 3/8" on anything.  I've researched these machines till I'm second guessing myself.  I've never used a cylinder arm machine but am pretty sure that's what I want - I can always spring for the flat bed attachment as well. 

After a few trips to the local shoe repair shop to have them do some sewing for me - I think I need to make the jump!  Unfortunately, I can't find anyone locally that has anything that I can even sit and try out.  Recommendations?

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Does anyone know what the cylinder arm diameter is at the needle?

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