LK-1900A-HS

[R8R]

Well I held off buying an Adler 669 and then a Mauser 335 fell in my lap. And then this machine fell in my lap too. I have a lap full of machines.

I will prob have questions.

LK-1900A-HS. Set up for a 22 needle. Works perfectly so far. Damn these things are fast.

I don't know what brand the table is, but it's the nicest sewing table I've ever seen.

 

 

[chrisash]

Thats mighty impressive

[Wizcrafts]

I used to use a Singer bartacker at a part time sewing job I had in the early 1990s. The machine made the most awesome CLANG at the end of each cycle, which lasted about 1 second! It is very difficult to remove items that have been bartacked on.

[R8R]

So the table is a TSS. Height and tilt adjustable (up to standing height) with a channel in back to route cables and daisy chain multiple machines together. Pretty sweet.

[R8R]

3 hours ago, R8R said:

So the table is a TSS. Height and tilt adjustable (up to standing height) with a channel in back to route cables and daisy chain multiple machines together. Pretty sweet.

Maybe not. This is the exact same base...

https://www.sewperfecttables.com/sewing-table-dream.shtml

 

Hmm.

[DonInReno]

At two new machines a week that’s....um....multiply little number by number of Friday’s.....Yep you’re on track to have 100 machines by this time next year!

That is a nice table. A lot of nylon strapping just doesn’t look correct without a nice stout bar tack - good score!

[Sonydaze]

I have had one of these machines for about 10 years. It works great for sewing on buckles and can replace riveting in many applications.

One thing I have found is that they like to sew fast rather than slow...dial up the speed!  

I run #92 nylon thread on top and #69 in the bobbin through a size 20 (125) needle

[R8R]

3 hours ago, Sonydaze said:

I have had one of these machines for about 10 years. It works great for sewing on buckles and can replace riveting in many applications.

One thing I have found is that they like to sew fast rather than slow...dial up the speed!  

I run #92 nylon thread on top and #69 in the bobbin through a size 20 (125) needle

Do you use it for straight bartacking or have you adapted it for other patterns like box x, etc?

[Sonydaze]

I bought it used, it came with a custom foot for sewing labels on...it sewed a rectangle.

I use it most of the time for a straight bartack. (example  1" straps use pattern 17 with X:185 & Y:100)

You can get software to create programs for it (or you dealer may be able to make them). My understanding is that it can be programmed to sew just about any pattern in a 20mm x 40mm area. 

You need to make sure the feet on it are compatible with the pattern you want to run.

If you don't have a manual, I have a pdf... somewhere.   PM me with your email, but please note your machine is newer and may have some differences.

[R8R]

5 hours ago, Sonydaze said:

I bought it used, it came with a custom foot for sewing labels on...it sewed a rectangle.

I use it most of the time for a straight bartack. (example  1" straps use pattern 17 with X:185 & Y:100)

You can get software to create programs for it (or you dealer may be able to make them). My understanding is that it can be programmed to sew just about any pattern in a 20mm x 40mm area. 

You need to make sure the feet on it are compatible with the pattern you want to run.

If you don't have a manual, I have a pdf... somewhere.   PM me with your email, but please note your machine is newer and may have some differences.

Thanks but I already have the manual, the latest edition of the parts list, and the engineer's manual!

When I get a used machine it goes through a thorough clean / inspect / restore phase before I put it to use. That way if I want to sell it later it's good to go with little fuss. It's in overall great shape, just needs a cleaning and a few typical wear items replaced (table hinges are a bit tweaked, needs new table bumpers, etc) and any deferred maintenance (basically just greasing)

The hook needs a little polishing. That's the only issue I've found that affects the stitches and if the bit of rough end on the point doesn't polish out I can just get a new one.

For the feed plates and clamps I'll give Camatron a call or one of the other places that does custom clamps. I'd like to get it doing .75" box x's and a few other things. The big thing was the bartacks though...I can maybe fake 1 out of 10 that look even remotely decent with my zig zag machine. I just don't have that kind of jedi skill to make them look right by hand.

[gottaknow]

On 10/21/2018 at 10:53 AM, Wizcrafts said:

I used to use a Singer bartacker at a part time sewing job I had in the early 1990s. The machine made the most awesome CLANG at the end of each cycle, which lasted about 1 second! It is very difficult to remove items that have been bartacked on.

That clang at the end was the stop motion on Singer 269 class. Music to a mechanics ear. 

[Wizcrafts]

6 minutes ago, gottaknow said:

That clang at the end was the stop motion on Singer 269 class. Music to a mechanics ear. 

That is the model I sewed on.

[gottaknow]

The 1900 series has morphed over the years. Decent machine heads and inexpensive parts. Brother has however left them in the dust when it comes to their software. I have a highly modified 1900 for webbing applications and it never misses a beat. 

Regards, Eric 

[R8R]

7 minutes ago, gottaknow said:

The 1900 series has morphed over the years. Decent machine heads and inexpensive parts. Brother has however left them in the dust when it comes to their software. I have a highly modified 1900 for webbing applications and it never misses a beat. 

Regards, Eric 

This was cheap and they threw in boxes and boxes of thread, webbing, zippers, etc. Couldn't pass it up. 

Do you know if later control panels can be retrofitted to this machine? IP410, IP420, etc?

[R8R]

16 hours ago, gottaknow said:

Brother has however left them in the dust when it comes to their software.

Ya think?

 

[R8R]

So I thought this machine was sewing fine but I kept getting weird skips, loose stitches and occasional birds nests (which can be VERY challenging to free up in a machine like this!), especially on heavier items and multiple layers. Slowing the machine down helped a bit but there was still some phantoms that did not want to leave.

 

After a super thorough clean and lube, and an even more thorough inspection and inventory of issues, I ordered a slew of minor parts and dug in with the engineer's manual. Turns out on a machine like this even small deviations from adjustment specs can have big impacts. Much more so than a plain mechanical machine.

 

Today installed a new hook, new check spring, new tension disks, new bed hinges and rubber (the old hinges were bent bad) and a few other missing screws and such and the oddly missing eye shield. Never a good idea to run a machine this fast without one. I already broke one needle last week and it shot across the shop like a bullet.

 

Took the plunge and adjusted the timing from scratch. Turns out it was sewing ok, and "timed", but not timed exactly right to the 135x17 needle system, and the shuttle driver was adjusted WAY outboard and hitting the needle! Reset the needle bar, driver and adjusted the shuttle carriage. The adjustments on this thing are cool, very easy to time it and set the needle/hook gap.

 

Replacing the tension disks and check spring was way more challenging than anticipated, and required some exact setup so the tension adjustments would respond correctly from the control panel.

 

NOW it sews great. Can sew much faster and I'm not getting any weird lock ups or tension issues.

 

Still have to repair the bottom corner of the machine where the hinge pin is. Prob JB Weld will do the trick. The hinge holds on fine and it tilts fine but I'm a completist. (is that a word?)

 

Happy sewing.