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RecoveringA55hole

Satchel Design

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I want to attempt a more complex (to me) project.

I'm inspired by the Bexar bag.

https://www.bexargoods.com/collections/carry-bags-leather/products/leather-satchel-handmade-harness

However, I don't like the backpack straps and going to eliminate that. With that being said, does that consequently change the whole radius on the bottom of the bag?

Anyways, I would be grateful for any assistance or tips on pattern making! Seems like I'm struggling and over thinking this process. 

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I do not see why it should, from the photos the backpack straps go around the whole bag. Eliminate the straps and the bag remains unchanged.

Things to notice: they use the straps to secure the closing flap for the bag, you will have to come up with something. Also I do not see any extensions for the bag to be carried over a shoulder like a messenger bag or something - you will be left with carrying it by hand.

The starting tip I can give you is this: get hold of those thin foam sheets used by kids in school or thin felt often used in sawing crafts. Use it to model and prototype the bag before cutting any leather. If you find felt thick enough like the leather you are going to use that would be perfect. You can cut it, fold it, glue it, saw it - literally make the bag you want how you want. Felt is as cheap as 5$ for 12 sheets of 9"x12" at places like Walmart or or look for places that sell sawing materials for larger sizes.

Edited by LetterT

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If anyone is interested in putting together a CAD or PDF pattern based on that bag, I will pay your hourly or flat rate.

I want to subtract the backpack straps and add extension for a shoulder strap. I understand the sizes are going to be estimated, I just want to make sure I can house a 15" laptop.

 

I'm sure I could figure it out with trail and error but I would love to eliminate that process. Shoot me a message and method of payment if you are interested.

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I may have the pattern of a bag very similar to this in one of my ancient books.

The bag in the link has tabs and Ds on the gussets for a shoulder strap. Also; just move the Ds on the back from low down to higher up for a hip-hugger shoulder strap. Leave off the big O ring on the top of the flap. There would be no need to change any part of the rest

I reckon I could draw up a pattern for this in about 1 hour. But I ain't offering as I'm too busy with other stuff right now. Its a really basic simple classic design

Edit, to say. There are some elements of that bag I do not like.

1.  Riveting on the tabs & Ds on the gussets. Although rivets are strong I have found that riveting on in that way sooner or later leads to the tab ripping off, usually the rivets pulling thru the main gusset leather

2. None of the edges are beveled and smoothed. Something I always do. Beveling, smoothing and waxing/painting not only makes the bag nicer looking but it helps weather proof the bag; water can not soak in thru the raw edges

3. The use of the large O ring central top will put an undue stress on the centre of the top. Again sooner or later, the weight carried will cause the centre top to pull upwards. It would be better with the straps pulling on the outer support straps

4. The shortness and straight top edge of the gusset. This leaves a very large gap under the curve of the flap. This might be ok in dryer climates but in wetter [ie UK] and dustier environments it'll let in all sorts of things; rain, sand, dust, insects. To be more weather proof the gusset should have a taller semi-circular top for the flap to rest on.

This bag is nothing more than a slightly different version of the traditional British school satchel. Once sold for use by every school child in the UK it is now sold in fancy colours as a fashion bag. Even then the price is about a 1/4 the price of this one

Edited by fredk

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11 hours ago, LetterT said:

Also I do not see any extensions for the bag to be carried over a shoulder like a messenger bag or something - you will be left with carrying it by hand.

The shoulder straps are actually one long piece with a cow hitch through the top ring and snaps on the ends, unhook the snaps, pull through the cow hitch and you have a long strap which can be snapped onto the D rings on the gussets giving you a shoulder strap.

Agree with fredk that the strain on the top O-ring could be excessive when used as a backpack but a clever way of building in 2 carry systems without having to carry extraneous straps.

Perhaps moving the O-ring from the top of the bag to high up on the back with a doubling to spread the load would be a better option.

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Few beginner questions:

  1. I'm assuming the side bottom radius is the same as the gusset width VS putting a radius just on the corners?
  2. If i wanted the bag to be 5" deep, should the gussets be slightly larger in width to accommodate the natural radius from this stitching pattern?
  3. What is the easier way to stitch around that bottom radius? I was playing with some scrap leather last night it was a real challenge! Is it normal practice to trim up the edge of pieces that are stitched together or should a good pattern match up perfect?

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A. language; deep can be; top to bottom or front to back. Here I assume you mean front to back

1. it looks like a continuous radius on this bag, but you could do rounded corners for a flatter bottom on the bag

2. & 3. A common way to join the gusset to the body - as here - is to fold the edge of the gusset to meet the body. Skiving the edge helps it to fold. On a bag this size I'd go for 3/8 inch [10mm] all round. Thus to get 5 inch internal you need to add 5 + 3/8 + 3/8 = 5 3/4 inch wide gusset. You also need to add 3/4 inch to the length if you are after a certain internal size. eg; if you want 17 inch internal then you need at least 17 3/4 inch wide main body leather. One 3/8 needs to be taken into account on the height of the gusset. eg, you want 12 in deep, add 3/8 for the fold over at the bottom end = 12 3/8

But essentially you are still working with a gusset 5 in wide with a 5 in radius.

I always glue the skived edge of the gusset to the main body. By working carefully I can get the edges to line up pretty near perfectly. Once glued in place I make my stitching holes and sew up. One simple sewing down the front panel, round the bottom and up the rear panel.  BTW I only hand stitch

Also; I usually make the cardboard gusset templates [one with fold allowance, one without] first then measure around the edge of one to find out how much leather I need to go around it, then make my main body template with that measurement included. That way saves a lot of mental arithmetic, just read off a tape measure, :P

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