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It’s been too long. 

Unnecessarily durable pouch for my cousin. I should prob stick up on those squeeze things. 

 

 

18A68CBD-6653-45CA-9CA5-A2E69291FD4C.jpeg

Edited by Dun

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Next was adding a back to a thin phone case that would add a finger ring but also allow for wireless charging. I’m surprised it charges through the case + 7oz leather

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33AFC5C0-ED2B-41DA-BFB7-7423FB7F8184.jpeg

Edited by Dun

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Welcome back, Dun. I too am just now getting back to making. We'll relearn together.

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9 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

Welcome back, Dun. I too am just now getting back to making. We'll relearn together.

Nice. I need to spend some time reading this forum to catch up. Cabinetry been going okay for you?

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@Dun yeah. Most recent pictures are on the last page.

 

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2 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

@Dun yeah. Most recent pictures are on the last page.

 

Dang I would love a work space like that. I’m still spread out over an old coffee table

Is one machine for thin leather and another thick? I’m completely clueless when it comes to those

37DCA313-342B-4D2C-87E0-CFD39F2FB25E.jpeg

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Basically, yes. Don't be too jealous. The room is only 8x9.

 

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Version 2.0 of granpa’s House phone holster. Reinforced and lined with some plastic folder material to stiffen it

904A7576-D221-463A-B430-2D8A24A2F1FF.jpeg

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Not stitching the bottom, but folding it around means I could stuff the heck out of this wallet. I like the design but not happy with it just yet

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Any advice on getting cleaner back stitching? I thought I was just reversing my stitch angled pull motion but my back stitches are a mess

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Others here can stitch circles around me, but it looks to me as though there must be something you’re doing that’s not always the same from stitch to stitch - some little over/under difference or needle through the hole in different relation to the threads, etc. Those last 5 stitches have that nice diagonal look to them. I’d suggest punching a couple of long lines in some scrap and really going at it to get the look you want on both sides and then engrain that exact motion into your memory 100%.

 

I like the phone case, that’s a cool way to get a finger ring and still be able to slip the phone into a pocket.

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13 hours ago, Retswerb said:

Others here can stitch circles around me, but it looks to me as though there must be something you’re doing that’s not always the same from stitch to stitch - some little over/under difference or needle through the hole in different relation to the threads, etc. Those last 5 stitches have that nice diagonal look to them. I’d suggest punching a couple of long lines in some scrap and really going at it to get the look you want on both sides and then engrain that exact motion into your memory 100%.

 

I like the phone case, that’s a cool way to get a finger ring and still be able to slip the phone into a pocket.

I really should do more practice. I get turned around once I have to flip a flap or turn a corner that the muscle memory isn't building on it's own.

The phone case could of had a much shorter strap it turns out. It doesn't take much at all to create a curve big enough to accommodate a finger. I think a much better leatherworker could have made it 3 layers of very thin leather laminated, like a couple of watch straps next to each other vertically?

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I think the look of the black and brown wallet would be improved by going with a closer stitch spacing.  To me they are too long and too flat.  It is accentuated since the white thread contrasts starkly with the black and brown.

Regarding consistency, that is just it, you need to be consistent meaning pulling the threads the same tension along with maintaining proper needle priority.  Same motion over and over with the same amount of tug.  Sounds easy, but obviously it isn't.  We all struggle at times getting the back to look as good as the front.  Both Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson address that issue in their various youtube videos.  Check them out.

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On 1/31/2019 at 1:00 PM, Tugadude said:

I think the look of the black and brown wallet would be improved by going with a closer stitch spacing.  To me they are too long and too flat.  It is accentuated since the white thread contrasts starkly with the black and brown.

Regarding consistency, that is just it, you need to be consistent meaning pulling the threads the same tension along with maintaining proper needle priority.  Same motion over and over with the same amount of tug.  Sounds easy, but obviously it isn't.  We all struggle at times getting the back to look as good as the front.  Both Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson address that issue in their various youtube videos.  Check them out.

I know I’ve watched their videos before but I’ll have to do a refresher. 

The stitch spacing is easy enough to fix with a new tool purchase once I get some spare money to throw at it. I will have to re-research pricking iron options. It’s been a while

Along with the spacing, I’m assuming I’ll have to change my thread size as well? This has all been with 1mm thread. 

Edited by Dun

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1.0 mm thread is somewhat large for most small items.  My sweet spot seems to be 0.8mm for typical wallets, etc. and 0.6 for small items where I want a more refined look or to detract attention from the stitching.  On some stuff I want the stitching to be proud, on others I want the item to get the attention.  I like .6mm with around 9 spi and 0.8 at 7 spi.

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Just took a crappy pic of some items to show variation.  The chisels were 2.5 and 3.0 Tandy Craftool diamond type, the black ones.  The red thread is 1.0mm and the white is 0.6mm on the natural veg tan and 0.8mm on the razor cover.  I think the simulated alligator wallet ( my current daily wallet) is Tandy waxed awl thread, comes in a large spool and is three strand.  I actually like it and it is reasonably priced.  Bad pic, sorry for that, but hopefully helpful.image.jpeg.0ca6eda2d292cc53bf6d2c61c9ef0f69.jpeg

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This one I thought benefitted from accentuating the thread.  It is an iPad cover.  

image.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Tugadude said:

Just took a crappy pic of some items to show variation.  The chisels were 2.5 and 3.0 Tandy Craftool diamond type, the black ones.  The red thread is 1.0mm and the white is 0.6mm on the natural veg tan and 0.8mm on the razor cover.  I think the simulated alligator wallet ( my current daily wallet) is Tandy waxed awl thread, comes in a large spool and is three strand.  I actually like it and it is reasonably priced.  Bad pic, sorry for that, but hopefully helpful.image.jpeg.0ca6eda2d292cc53bf6d2c61c9ef0f69.jpeg

The card case on the top is .6mm thread?

 

This is the Tandy chisel I’ve been using, but only to prick the marks. Then I use this awl for actually piercing. Again seen with the 1mm thread

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I have the same make iron but the spacing is closer.  Actually I have one same size as yours and I have used it on turned bags where the stitching really isn't seen.  The card case is done in 0.8 if I remember correctly.

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I like the results from these.  If you want to buy wait until they go on sale or invest in the membership to get a discount.image.jpeg.f9d4d56300ef100067c4cf246720295f.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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Oh that far left one is .6, dang that’s tiny. I have another stitching iron with closer spi, but I didn’t like the holes it punched. I will give it a try as just stitch marking and punch with the awl. And get some more stitch practice that way

2 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

I like the results from these.  If you want to buy wait until they go on sale or invest in the membership to get a discount.image.jpeg.f9d4d56300ef100067c4cf246720295f.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Thanks! What thread size do you recommend for those chisel sizes? I’m still not good with spi/mm

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