sizing tooling patterns

[Joshstrange]

I would like to start off saying that i am not an artist with pencil and paper.  I cannot draw to save my life. So for a lot of my tooling patterns I rely on printing them off the internet and using tracing film to transfer to leather.  The problem that I am running into is that I can resize the image in Microsoft paint to make it fit on my template but it takes several try's as you cant see what size it will be until it comes out of the printer, or at least I don't know how i'm not really a tech person.  is there a program that I can scan my template into, size the image to the space I have to work with and print it out and it will print the template that is the same size as my acrylic template and the image will be ready to transfer over to the leather with tracing film.  I have heard of Inkscape and have played with it a little, it's a  little overwhelming.  I was curious if anybody else has done this and can tell me how they do it or point me in the direction of a tutorial.  Thanks guys and gals for your help.

[fredk]

For this I use a Desk Top Publishing programme ~ aka DTP

With this I can import any image into a box on a page. I can resize the image box, in direct proportion  ~ that is, if the image is A by 3A,  I can resize it to 2A by 6A, etc, or I can stretch the box, to A by 6A, or 3A by 3A etc. I can rotate the image box, add other image boxes on top or underneath the first one. I can draw simple geometric shapes within the image box or alter its shape from square, round, oval,  star etc. I can add writing to the image box. If I download an image from the internet I save it to a file then drag it into the image box on the DTP page for manipulation

To scan an image I use a printer/scanner/copier. I scan the image into a basic photograph editing programme. I clean it up then save it to a file to then drag it into the DTP page

The artwork for this stamp was all done on the DTP,  using several overlaying boxes; eg each letter of LAZY~D is in a separate box, each rotated, the oval frame is a separate box. It was drawn up at about 15cm across. When it was done it was exported as a JPEG image and sent to the stamp maker for a brass stamp 3cm across.

hth

[VYO]

I use Affinity Photo and Affinity Designer for this purpose. They aren't free, about $50 each. There are probably other programs that are free that could do it like as you mentioned Inkscape. I scan my drawing into Affinity Photo, save it, open it in Affinity Designer and use the pen tool to trace the scan. Then I resize the tracing to match the actual template that I scanned (by measuring the actual drawing). I have a project I need to modify by doing this so I'll try to remember to take screenshots as I work on it. Probably won't be until sometime this weekend.

[DJole]

you might give Inkscape a try. It's free:
https://inkscape.org/
Inkscape is professional quality vector graphics software which runs on Linux, Mac OS X and Windows desktop computers.

[Stewart]

I use Print Master. There is a free version. It has grid marks on the sides and can set blue guide lines

that you can import an image into and size it. Also has preprogrammed shapes that you can resize.

Texting can be done in a text box or  Highline feature that is sizeable.

 

[JLSleather]

If all you want to do is scale, why not just do that in the printer? Should be a setting... if it's 10" across and you want it 7" across, should be able to just print it at 70%

 

[mdawson]

Hi Josh

As you working with MS Paint presumably you’re using bit mapped images such as jpeg, bmp etc.

A simple way to get a precise size would be to place the picture into a word processor such as MS Word, Libre Office (free), Open Office (free) and use the picture tools to resize the image to the actual dimensions in mm or inches, then print without scaling.

If you’re unsure how to do this I can put together a how to for you but unfortunately not until Tuesday, if that would help, let me know.

Mark

[Smartee]

if you're using Paint - you can set the rulers  and will be able to tell how wide or tall the image will be.  use it all the time for cake stuff

[VYO]

This is an order I have to replace a nylon pocket holster with a leather one and to add a belt clip so the holster can be worn concealed inside the pants. He also wanted to be sure that the side bulge under the grip was retained because it holds the gun straight when he wants to put it in his pocket and not wear it on the belt.

Scan your image into software. Save the image and open it in a vector editing software. I use Affinity Designer but Inkscape will work as well.

Look for the “pen” tool.

Import/Open the scan in the software. Use the pen tool to trace the outlines of the scanned image. When you left click a pen tool it places a small box to mark points on the line being drawn. Left clicking and dragging creates a round point signified by a round point marker. Once the lines are finished you can go back and move the drag the handles on the round point markers to adjust the curves. Left clicking on a point allows you to move the point. Creating a point marker, holding the shift key, then moving the mouse to another location will create a straight line.

I wrote dimensions I wanted to be sure of on my initial drawing. After tracing the image with the pen tool, resize the tracing to match the dimensions you need.

This is a fold over holster so I need to create the other side. Copy and paste the line drawing created and then transform it to reverse horizontal and drag the copy to the right. Then close the open sections top and bottom if you have to add space. I added 3/4” for part of the depth of the gun.

I over-layed a scaled photo of the gun and added a possible stitch line.

After checking measurements of the drawing, print the template, cut it out, and fit it around the gun. If it works as you expect the template is ready to use. I usually transfer the paper template to thin cardboard or thick card stock and then trace around the template edge on the leather and cut it out.

For me, the advantage of learning how to use the pen tool in vector editing software is that I can also design leather projects in the software, print them, cut them out, and test them in paper form. If I mess up with the paper, I already have a ready drawn template I can print out over and over. If I decide I want an acrylic template made I already have the drawing ready to send to the manufacturer.

Others have mentioned DTP software. Sounds pretty easy too. I've never done this with DTP software so I don't have anything to add to those comments.

I'll put up an image of the finished product when I have it done. I'm out of belt clips which I've ordered but they won't be here until next week.

Hopefully this will help. I'm sure there are many ways to do this but this is the easiest way for me. If I haven't explained everything clearly let me know and I'll try to be more clear.

[Stewart]

 

 Thank You  VYO.  That broke the learning block I had of Inkscape.

 

[Joshstrange]

On 1/25/2019 at 12:16 PM, mdawson said:

Hi Josh

As you working with MS Paint presumably you’re using bit mapped images such as jpeg, bmp etc.

A simple way to get a precise size would be to place the picture into a word processor such as MS Word, Libre Office (free), Open Office (free) and use the picture tools to resize the image to the actual dimensions in mm or inches, then print without scaling.

If you’re unsure how to do this I can put together a how to for you but unfortunately not until Tuesday, if that would help, let me know.

Mark

I never thought of that I will try that

[Joshstrange]

Thanks for the reply's.  I sat down in front of inkscape and i think I figured it out for the current project it did take 6 hours but got it done.  someday I may try one of the non free programs but right now my secretary AKA the wife wont let me spend anymore money on this hobby.  I'm glad this forum exists, so much info.  thanks again.

[Handstitched]

On 1/25/2019 at 10:07 AM, Joshstrange said:

I cannot draw to save my life.

I second that Joshstrange . But over the years, I have become quite adept  at modifying patterns to fit particular projects or jobs. Either that or lose money. 

For example, a  tooled bag with acorns & oak leaves etc.  Sometimes  I would pick an acorn from this pattern, and oak leaf from another to make up a design that I like. The pattern becomes a ' bitsa' ( bits 'a this and bits a'  that) We call breeds of dogs  that here in Oz . But its the end result that counts.  I think that over time, you will become  quite good with a pencil and paper, have confidence, you might even surprise yourself    

Also , I do use the photo copier at our local Shire office to enlarge or reduce a pattern , very handy. 

HS

[VYO]

Here's the completed pocket/clip on holster for a Ruger 38. I did it with 2-3oz veg tan doubled up for the holster and 8 oz veg tan for the clip holder. Pics came out a little blurry for some reason.

 

 

[Joshstrange]

On 2/6/2019 at 2:32 PM, VYO said:

Here's the completed pocket/clip on holster for a Ruger 38. I did it with 2-3oz veg tan doubled up for the holster and 8 oz veg tan for the clip holder. Pics came out a little blurry for some reason.

 

 

That came out very nice is there a reason that you used such light leather.  I have used 4-6 oz leather to make holsters but they seem to wear quicker and not look as good than a 9-10 oz. holster, but I have never made an in the pocket holster just out side the waistband pancake style holsters.  

[VYO]

28 minutes ago, Joshstrange said:

That came out very nice is there a reason that you used such light leather.

Thank you.

Yes, a total of 6 ounces seemed more reasonable to me to fit in a front pocket comfortably than using a heavier leather with a liner. The customer was accustomed to a nylon holster and I didn't feel that a heavier leather would be very comfortable in a front pocket carry. Also the paddle has a little bit of give when sitting. I wasn't sure a heavier leather would easily give or at least not dig into a leg when sitting. It's the first pocket carry I've made. Also since this is a conceal carry holster worn inside the pants I felt it wouldn't get as much wear and tear as a holster worn outside the belt. I could be totally wrong on that, time will tell.

He was very pleased when he tried it on his belt and placed it in his pocket. Time will tell how well it holds up. I'll ask him in six months or so to send a photo to see how it's holding up. I'm sure he'll let me know if something goes wrong with it before then.

Edited February 8, 2019 by VYO

[VYO]

On 1/26/2019 at 5:36 AM, Stewart said:

 

 Thank You  VYO.  That broke the learning block I had of Inkscape.

 

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

[Joshstrange]

1 minute ago, VYO said:

Thank you.

Yes, a total of 6 ounces seemed more reasonable to me to fit in a front pocket comfortably than using a heavier leather with a liner. The customer was accustomed to a nylon holster and I didn't feel that a heavier leather would be very comfortable in a front pocket carry. Also the paddle has a little bit of give when sitting. I wasn't sure a heavier leather would easily give or at least not dig into a leg when sitting. It's the first pocket carry I've made.

He was very pleased when he tried it on his belt and placed it in his pocket. Time will tell how well it holds up. I'll ask him in six months or so to send a photo to see how it's holding up. I'm sure he'll let me know if something goes wrong with it before then.

 I figured it was for the front pocket carry.  I made a holster for myself and used 6-7 oz because i didn't want to wait 2 days for the heavier stuff to get in and it was just a small "purse gun" anyways.  It works just fine, I have carried it every day for about a year and it still has good retention, it just looks like its 10 years old, granted i'm not easy on it either.  If that's what the guy wants that's what he will get.  The thicker leather just seems to hold up better to abuse.

[VYO]

Just now, Joshstrange said:

The thicker leather just seems to hold up better to abuse.

Agree with you there for sure.