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luxuryluke

Looking for cylinder arm for leatherbag making. Necchi 840-100

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8 hours ago, modanistil said:

Can you use tex 500 tread with it?

I don't know of any Tex 500 thread. The closest is v415, also known as Tex 400, or Government 6 cord linen. This size thread requires a Singer #27, or Metric #250 needle (2.5mm). My Cowboy CB4500 is rated for this size needle and thread. Other machines able to handle #415 thread are the Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, Juki TSC-441, Adler 205-370, Adler 969 ECO, Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, Landis 1 and 3, Number 9 Machine, Luberto Classic and some Artisan and Ferdinand Bull machines. Shoe sole stitches can also handle #415 thread. Think Landis 12 and Champion dual flywheel, curved needle and awl machines. Some of these machines are obsolete, but still show up for sale now and then. There are also some other machines I didn't mention.

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Here you go.

Thank you @Wizcrafts for that information.

 

Wanted to ask @luxuryluke if he can sew a 3,5 mm veg tan on a 1,4 veg tan with ease on this machine. I usually do that by hand.

 

This is just an example. I use this thread for hand sewing. Braided waxed tex 600.

Capture.JPG

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4 hours ago, modanistil said:

This is just an example. I use this thread for hand sewing. Braided waxed tex 600.

This thread is for hand sewing, not machine sewing. Machines require a twisted thread, with left, or Z twist being the most common for single needle machines. Their hooks travel clockwise relative to the scarf side of the needle. If you try sewing on these machines with right twist, or no twist thread, it will unravel. Furthermore, waxed thread should not be used in a standard closed eye needle machine. It will gum up the eye! Waxed thread should either be hand sewn or machine sewn on a barbed needle and awl machine (e.g., Campbell/Randall Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch, Landis 3).

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19 hours ago, modanistil said:

So woud it go with a tex 380? Amann serabraid as reference.Sorry not smart enough for this.

 

 

 

Thread Type Tex Size V number Government Size Yarn Construction (Denier x Ply)
Nylon T-70 69 E 210 X 3
T-90 92 F 210 X 4
T-135 138 FF 420 X 3
T-210 207 #3 630 X 3
T-270 277 #4 840 X 3
T-350 346 #5 840 X 4
T-400 415 #6 1260 X 3
T-600 554 #8 1680 X 3
T-700 693 #10 1890 X 3
     
Polyester         T-70 69 E 220 X 3
T-90 92 F 220 X 4
T-135 138 FF 420 X 3
T-210 207 #3 630 X 3
T-270 277 #4 840 X 3
T-350 346 #5 1100 X 3
T-400 415 #6 1300 X 3
T-600 554 #8 1300 X 4
T-700 693 #10 2000 X 3

 

I should have typed 138 instead of 134. 138 is the V number on the chart which is the same as Tex size 135(T-135)  You will see thread size, typed or mentioned, by the V number, by the Tex number or somewhere close, either way folks will know which size you are talking about. I just remember the V number sizes 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346 and 415 because I do not use and thread lower than 69 or higher than 415.

A good rule of thumb: The highest number of thread that most industrial sewing machines use, that has a presser foot lift of half inch or less is 138, there is several reasons for this from thread tension to needle size. A good example is if it looks like a Singer 111w, series (flatbed machine) or 153series (referenced as cylinder arm or  cylinderbed machine) then 138 is max. If you need to use 207 and up, you need a larger machine with a lift of 5/8 or highe, examples are if the machine looks like a Singer 45k series with 5/8" presser foot lift, a Juki 441 with 3 /4" presser foot lift and it's clones or an Adler 205-370 series an it's clone with each having 3/4" presser foot lift. 

 Of coarse there are many exceptions to the rule of what I mentioned, but what I gave you will give you a large head start, if I explained myself well.

Here is a link for what thread to use with what needle:

https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Edited by ryano
Chaged ticket to V @ 1:30pm

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I just noticed that there was a discrepancy between the thread chart that I posted my previous post and this chart. I have trust in Bob's chart so I corrected my previous post and changed the word ticket number to V number.

 

The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads.

Minimum Needle US/Metric Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket] Government Size Yds/Pound Break Strength Diameter
12/80 33 (T30) [Tkt 80] AA 13,800 1.8 lbs .0050" (.127mm)
14/90 46 (T45) [Tkt 60] B 9,600 7.5 lbs .0094" (.238mm)
16/100/ or 18/110 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] E 6,000 11 lbs .0115" (.292mm)
19/120 92 (T90) [Tkt 30] F 4,200 14.5 lbs .0133" (.337mm)
22/140 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] FF 3,000 22 lbs .0163" (.414mm)
23/160 207 (T210) [Tkt 15] 3 Cord 2,000 32 lbs .0200" (.508mm)
25/200 277 (T270) [Tkt 10] 4 Cord 1,500 45 lbs .0231" (.586mm)
26/220 346 (T350) [Tkt 8] 5 Cord 1,200 53 lbs .0258" (.655mm)
27/250 415 (T400) [Tkt 7] 6 Cord 1,050 72 lbs .0283" (.718mm)
30/330 554 (T600) [Tkt 5] 8 Cord 655 83 lbs .0326" (.828mm
Edited by ryano

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Thnks @ryano

 

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26 minutes ago, modanistil said:

Thnks @ryano

 

You are very welcome! I hope it I helped you out some.

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