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SIRENco

Looking for binder attachment for yamata fy335

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Hi everyone! I am new here, and this is my first post. I work mostly with waxed canvas but am thinking about exploring leather soon. Once buying some new tools will be in the budget. I have a business, making waxed canvas bags. I make backpacks, duffles, instrument cases, all kinds of stuff. I havent really found a better forum for talking about industrial machines so I hope youll accept me here even though I am not a leather worker (yet)

ANYWAY! I just bought a yamata fy335 walking foot cylinder bed machine. It came with the binder plate, but not attachment, and I am having a hard time locating the right one. I need just a single fold, and I need 2 sizes. one for 1.25'' and 1.5'' Was really hoping someone could help me out here. I bought one for a pfaff 335 thinking it would work because I think (?) my machine is its clone... and its the right KIND of binder but it doesnt push far enough towards the needle.. so when i sew it barely touches the edging

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14 hours ago, SIRENco said:

Hi everyone! I am new here, and this is my first post. I work mostly with waxed canvas but am thinking about exploring leather soon. Once buying some new tools will be in the budget. I have a business, making waxed canvas bags. I make backpacks, duffles, instrument cases, all kinds of stuff. I havent really found a better forum for talking about industrial machines so I hope youll accept me here even though I am not a leather worker (yet)

ANYWAY! I just bought a yamata fy335 walking foot cylinder bed machine. It came with the binder plate, but not attachment, and I am having a hard time locating the right one. I need just a single fold, and I need 2 sizes. one for 1.25'' and 1.5'' Was really hoping someone could help me out here. I bought one for a pfaff 335 thinking it would work because I think (?) my machine is its clone... and its the right KIND of binder but it doesnt push far enough towards the needle.. so when i sew it barely touches the edging

Years of seam binding ( flat beds ) , but it same with both Flat or Cylinder,  and with trying to get the binders Throat right in there tight in the sweet spot .
With ' all ' binding attachments I have ever used . I have always had to cut/notch the presser foot for getting the proper distance to the binders throat . cutting and shaping, Getting into seam binders you will get good at this pretty quick.
Also don't screw around with strait binders . Just get to it, with nice R-angle 90 Deg. attachment .

edit to add:
Is that 'Yamata' A ( 135x17 Needle ?  ) . Also let me know how it goes with that 335 copy . I got a complete table setup from an old cylinder bed head that I sold and it begging for something to bolt down on it . That Yamata will be a GTG .
.

Edited by nylonRigging

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Industrial sewing equipment is not universal fitting. I guess you have to modify the throat plate and maybe feed dog or the screw posts or the binder attachment or all - modifications are not unusual. Some pictures may help to evaluate your issue.

I had to modify my 108w20 a bit as well. I have chosen a different kind of binder attachment so I modified the binder bracket and the throat plate. Works perfect for me now.

 

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3 hours ago, BattleAx said:

Hi SIRENco, 

Try contacting Tennessee Attachment they make high Quilty binders and other items for sewing machines great company.

http://tennattachment.com/index.html

 

+ 1   TAC has done all my binders and they are terrific.  Contact them and they can get you setup with exactly what you need. 

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Thank you all so much for the info! Shortly after I posted this, I realized that if i just cut the adjustment slider hole a little longer it could work for me. I am glad I went ahead and got a 90 degree binder. All the videos I watched made  it seem like it was so simple and easy, but, it hasnt been, wish I would have come here sooner as forums have always been the most helpful tool. I will definitely check out TAC..

10 hours ago, nylonRigging said:

Years of seam binding ( flat beds ) , but it same with both Flat or Cylinder,  and with trying to get the binders Throat right in there tight in the sweet spot .
With ' all ' binding attachments I have ever used . I have always had to cut/notch the presser foot for getting the proper distance to the binders throat . cutting and shaping, Getting into seam binders you will get good at this pretty quick.
Also don't screw around with strait binders . Just get to it, with nice R-angle 90 Deg. attachment .

edit to add:
Is that 'Yamata' A ( 135x17 Needle ?  ) . Also let me know how it goes with that 335 copy . I got a complete table setup from an old cylinder bed head that I sold and it begging for something to bolt down on it . That Yamata will be a GTG .
.

It IS a 135x17 needle. Ill let ya know how it goes, excited to get to it and try it out. I am making banjo bags that are completely stuffed with 3/4 closed cell foam so its quite awkward sewing.

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6 hours ago, SIRENco said:

Thank you all so much for the info! Shortly after I posted this, I realized that if i just cut the adjustment slider hole a little longer it could work for me. I am glad I went ahead and got a 90 degree binder. All the videos I watched made  it seem like it was so simple and easy, but, it hasnt been, wish I would have come here sooner as forums have always been the most helpful tool. I will definitely check out TAC..

It IS a 135x17 needle. Ill let ya know how it goes, excited to get to it and try it out. I am making banjo bags that are completely stuffed with 3/4 closed cell foam so its quite awkward sewing.

I have had a lot of binders and finding one's that are keeper is a struggle sometimes . & Leather is not my forte,  . also, ( I am a needle feed guy ) and that my favorite way to bind seam . I really love old double-needle flat-beds like old 112 /212and the newer juki LH3528 line . but I excel in many years Binding heavy denier cordura's and fabric, with Type-lll and Bias tapes, and I always still learning little fine details . I only have two machines setup right now at stations for both outside and inside seam bind .

I have customs binders and some I soldered myself . I solder better than a blind chimpanzee, but I am FAR from soldering like a skilled jeweler .
Tenn. attach. Co. makes good systems and there solder work is great 'rugged' for the long run . But You pay-$ for them also . There binding systems tend to run on a 'raised feed dog' because there Binders (sit a tiny taller) are big and soldered beefy on the head/throat for years and miles of tape  . but they have the Dogs prefabbed. and ready if you want.

Binding seams, both sewing with, and the set-up and adjusting for the tracking and stitch QC are an art in it's own right .
Also.. Anytime you buy a custom binder, that does not mean it is just screw it down and start sewing  . there are a lot of little thing that you will be learning about setting it up and also you going to get good at trimming and shaping your presser foot for different jobs with different binders.
Binding is a whole system . Binder, Presser feet, Dogs/feeding and then there is the binding materials your choosing to run threw your Binder and machine , and they all have to flow together for your QC .
.

edit to add:

LOL.... I just read that you are also dealing with getting binder and binding using heavy foam padding ...LOL . You are really putting yourself thew the learning curve, and binding around different foams are a whole pile of knowledge that you never quit learning how to do.

.

Edited by nylonRigging

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1 hour ago, nylonRigging said:

I have had a lot of binders and finding one's that are keeper is a struggle sometimes . & Leather is not my forte,  . also, ( I am a needle feed guy ) and that my favorite way to bind seam . I really love old double-needle flat-beds like old 112 /212and the newer juki LH3528 line . but I excel in many years Binding heavy denier cordura's and fabric, with Type-lll and Bias tapes, and I always still learning little fine details . I only have two machines setup right now at stations for both outside and inside seam bind .

I have customs binders and some I soldered myself . I solder better than a blind chimpanzee, but I am FAR from soldering like a skilled jeweler .
Tenn. attach. Co. makes good systems and there solder work is great 'rugged' for the long run . But You pay-$ for them also . There binding systems tend to run on a 'raised feed dog' because there Binders (sit a tiny taller) are big and soldered beefy on the head/throat for years and miles of tape  . but they have the Dogs prefabbed. and ready if you want.

Binding seams, both sewing with, and the set-up and adjusting for the tracking and stitch QC are an art in it's own right .
Also.. Anytime you buy a custom binder, that does not mean it is just screw it down and start sewing  . there are a lot of little thing that you will be learning about setting it up and also you going to get good at trimming and shaping your presser foot for different jobs with different binders.
Binding is a whole system . Binder, Presser feet, Dogs/feeding and then there is the binding materials your choosing to run threw your Binder and machine , and they all have to flow together for your QC .
.

edit to add:

LOL.... I just read that you are also dealing with getting binder and binding using heavy foam padding ...LOL . You are really putting yourself thew the learning curve, and binding around different foams are a whole pile of knowledge that you never quit learning how to do.

.

WELL  i certainly love to challenge myself, haha. the foam will not be in the binded seam. but its a very large and bulky item! id be interested in seeing some photos of modified binders just to get an idea of what everyone has had to do...

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Can i ask what binder you ended up getting?  I also have a yamata 335 and I’m looking for a 1” single fold binder. 

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