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GregS

Wide Double Cap Rivets

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So I used these for the first time today.  I used Tandy rivets and needed both medium and large sized.  Looks like the only difference between these is the post length.  Am I right to assume that the caps on the medium and on the large are identical?  Just thinking about organization.  If they are the same, I'll keep the caps together.

Another question is what's the best way to remove them without damaging the leather?  I attached some leather in the wrong order and had to get the rivets off.  I ended up prying them enough to get the cap off then used cutters to cut the shaft.  But if this wasn't on a project for me, it could have been a problem.

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You have to keep the shaft about 1mm protruding out of the leather. Cutting the post down has been difficult for me in the past. Now I just hold them in my needle nose pliers and grind them down with my Dremel.

If the post is too long the caps will drift when you set them.

The only way I have taken them apart is carefully prying up the corner and using snips to cut the cap in half. 

Usually, you can rub out any rough spots with a modeling spoon. Or regular spoon.

I have moved on to buckle guy rivets and setters. They are a nice step forward in my hardware game.

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I have heard the easiest way to remove rivets, is to use a centre punch in the middle of the rivet on one side, then remove with long nose pliers. Is that right @Howard696?

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That can work a bit but then you need to pull out the remains through a small hole, usually damaging the hole and enlarging it. Thus needing a bigger head rivet to replace it.

I prefer electric-wire side-cutters. End cutters will work as well. With single sided rivets I use needle nose pliers to get two sides of the base up a bit then wriggle the side-cutters under until I can cut the post with them, then the front/top just drops away. On double headed rivets, its the same procedure,  but its always on the reverse of the item, if there is one and it can be got to. Sometimes the cap on the rivet base will pop off as well, leaving the base as per a single headed rivet.

 

10 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

You have to keep the shaft about 1mm protruding out of the leather. Cutting the post down has been difficult for me in the past. Now I just hold them in my needle nose pliers and grind them down with my Dremel.

If the post is too long the caps will drift when you set them.

I prefer about 3mm of the post above the leather. Its a fine judgement, too little and the head won't hold, too  long and the post will bend and the head will drift to one side.

Another thing to remember is the hole in the leather thru which the post has to go. It should be exact, or a tiny wee bit too small. It will hold the rivet just where you want it and help give a tight joint. Too large a hole and it allows the post to drift and widen before the post mushrooms out in the head, leading to a joint just not as tight - still tight but just not as good . eg a rivet with a post diameter 3mm should go thru a hole 3mm or 2.5mm,  or even 3.18 mm [1/8 inch] at most but not 3.5mm or even 4mm 

I sometimes cut the post down by sliding it on a scratch awl then lightly cutting around it with the side-cutters, if it doesn't cut off the bit it at least weakens it so a few wiggles and it breaks off. But I just keep a very large range and large quantity of my commonly used rivets. They can be bought in bulk cheaper than Tandy sell just a few for.

edited for shpelings

Edited by fredk

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@fredk has forgotten more about leather than I will ever know. I think I was thinking about a snap post protruding thru the cap or socket when I said 1mm (which may also be wrong?).

Sorry for the misinformation.

Thanks for the comment about the right fitting hole. I usually make them snug, but hadn't given much thought as to why they needed to be snug.

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3 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

@fredk has forgotten more about leather than I will ever know. . . 

Thank you for the compliment friend, but not really so. I just comment on things I have experience of

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