Help with my Durkopp 239 please.

[toxo]

I'm splashing about in deep water here guys. Trying to fix my 239 125. I'm told it needs a new hook but I'm not so sure.

I'm a complete newbie at this. I've had the machine for a while but only recently tried to resurrect it. I'm an ex engineer and like being constructive and I'm itching to play with this machine. Retired now so this is  purely a hobby.

There's no side to side play on the stem but there is about 1/16th to maybe an 1/8th play in the twisty movement. Is this acceptable or not?

There is play in the bobbin holder but I'm not sure the bobbin holder is the right one. I can't see how you would get the thread under the spring tensioner without taking the carrier out because the end of the tensioner is bent in a hole. (see pic) Am I missing something here?

It still has a clutch motor on it but if I can get it working I'll consider a servo motor.

Been looking around the net and if anyone can help it'll be you guys. Any help you can give me will be very much appreciated.

[Matt S]

Hi Toxo, welcome to the site.

That hook looks a little blunt/broken but it could work. If it's just for a hobby best thing would be to see how it goes. I don't know what the availability of hooks for your machine might be but some are very expensive and a replacement might exceed the value of your machine.

Your bobbin case is supposed to have a little slop in the carrier/driver -- that's how the needle thread passes round the case! Case-carrier fit may seem loose but they have a very specific loose fit -- a single piece of thread will often jam them up solid if it enters at the wrong place or time.

There's often a non-obvious knack to threading up bobbins. On a well deigns machine like a Durkopp  you certainly won't need to remove the bobbin case to to thread it! Just imagine the machine operators in a sewing factory doing that every few minutes. Looks like if you drop the bobbin in place and pull the thread down into the slot and to the left it should snap in underneath the spring. Joggling the balance wheel backwards a tad might help too. There'll probably be a rather narrow position window when the parts align just enough so you have sufficient clearance to pull the thread under the bobbin tension spring. Then trim the tail to 2" before turning over to avoid it tangling.

Servo motors are great. Even cheap ones.

I trust you have a needle plate for your machine?

[Constabulary]

The entire hook saddle on the D. 239 is the same as on the Singer 111 so an English Singer 111 manual will help you with how to thread the bobbin case.

I however can send you a German language Dürkopp 239 manual by Email if you want - just send me your Email address by PM

If you are looking for a better feed dog (and maybe needle plate?), there is an Ebay seller who sells used Dürkopp parts for fair prices - if you need other parts just check the sellers offers:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Durkopp-241-Stichplatte-mit-Transporteur-7544/303071333332?hash=item4690758bd4:g:Nz4AAOSw19dcb7M5

Dürkopp 241 and 239 are using very similar parts (depending on subclass) but the above will work for your machine

This would be a new hook for your machine (if needed)

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Greifer-Durkopp-Adler-228-238-241-249-New/263541951800?hash=item3d5c530d38:g:4TUAAOSwEOpaHu64

Edited May 13, 2019 by Constabulary

[toxo]

Thanks guys.

Good shout on the new hook. Cheapest i've seen so far.

I do have the needle plate and the two side plates. The hook does seem to be hitting the needle scarf at the right time but I'm convinced this is not the right bobbin carrier. Here's a (slightly) better pic. I can't see for the life of me how you would get a thread under that spring tensioner. I did get a thread under it by taking the carrier out and it did sew after a fashion for about an inch and a half but it was all bunched up underneath. I know you have to balance out the two tensions but I need to make sure the bobbin carrier etc are good before delving into the finer points.

[Constabulary]

I don´t see any issues with the bobbin case - looks like mine. Spring looks good.

This is an extract from the Singer 111 Manual (same procedure as for the 239). While drawing the thread through the slot #1 (see picture) you have to hold down the bobbin with your fingers.

BTW - the hook I have linked is a bit different. You probably have noticed the "cap" for the bobbin case! However - it works for your machine but requires different bobbins. Just wanted to have it mentioned.

Edited May 13, 2019 by Constabulary

[toxo]

Spot on! Just had to pull harder. Thank you. So, It's working after a fashion. Just hope it's not too worn and I can fine tune it.

It's just done this.... any pointers?

Oh and I have loads of Bonded M60 thread. What can it be used for?

[Matt S]

3 minutes ago, toxo said:

Spot on! Just had to pull harder. Thank you. So, It's working after a fashion. Just hope it's not too worn and I can fine tune it.

It's just done this.... any pointers?

Oh and I have loads of Bonded M60 thread. What can it be used for?

Good news -- your hook works!

Looks like you have nearly zero top (needle) tension. Check that you've used all the provided thread guide holes and that you've fully pulled the thread into the tension discs. If that doesn't fix it (assuming your tension adjuster knob and its beehive spring are both present and not backed off so far that it's threatening to fall off) unthread the machine and rethread it from the beginning. Follow the manual, word by word and check very carefully against the pictures. It's easy to go in the wrong order or to skip something out.

TKT60 could be used for fine/light leathergoods like watch straps and wallets, or tough cloth items like bags and clothes.

[Constabulary]

If you want me to I can send an English Singer 111G156 manual and a German Dürkopp 239 manual - these 2 machines have a lot in common (especially the hook saddle, tension unit, hook and the presser feet) so you have some cross references. Just send me a PM with your email address.

Edited May 13, 2019 by Constabulary

[toxo]

Thanks for the manuals Constabulary. They are more detailed than what I already have.

I did manage to do a row of stitches with a 60 size thread that looked good on top and bottom but that didn't last. More adjustment needed. Will explain later.

[toxo]

Still a way to go but I've got it working.

Stitch length seems to have a mind of it's own and I've had lots of break offs.

Here's a pic.....  sorry about the quality. This was thick canvas on webbing.

So in you guys opinions, is the machine good enough to invest in a servo motor?

[Constabulary]

We haven´t seen the complete machine yet but you for sure need a new feed dog (see what I have linked above - thats dirt cheap) as yours looks quite worn and as mentioned before the hook tip is blunt / worn so replacing hook is the next thing.

Machine is skipping stitches as it seems (hook is not catching the thread loop from the needle - that's what makes the stitches look long = skipped stitches) - either because of the needle hook timing, the worn hook tip or the hook is too far away from the needle I guess.

The timing procedures are mentioned in the manuals I have sent you. The values for hook timing, needle bar hight and how the adjust the hook saddle are the same as on the Singer 111.

Edited May 15, 2019 by Constabulary