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Blue shark.  It's black, but the SPECIES is blue shark.  Know ... never mind .

P365_shark.jpgP365_shark_altt.jpg

Edited by JLSleather

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Jeff - another nice holster.  Do you sew, then trim edges before you mold the holster to the gun?  

Thanks for all the good information and templates you provide.

Gary

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Not sure i'm followin' yer question.  I cut the parts, glue the shark to the stiffener (4/5 oz tooling), then glue and sew those to the front panel, with some arch in it. 

Then glue, trim, punch slot, and sew the front section.  I sew it after it's already trimmed to match.

Then glue, trim, punch slot, and sew the "back end".  I sew it after it's already trimmed to match.

When I'm done sewing, dye the edge and burnish (first pass) before wet forming the holster. I hit the edges again when it's nearly dry, though depending on the  work load it sometimes gets away from me and i end up re-wetting the edges to burnish later.  Doesn't change the result one way or other, but hitting it while its "right" moisture content first time saves time in the end.

Maybe something in there answered your question ...  

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The reason I asked is that your stitching looks so close to the edge.  I don’t feel comfortable stitching that close to the edge.  I try to leave an extra 1/8-1/4” and then trim to the stitch line after in stitch.  When I have tried to sew really close to the edge I have ended up with stitches that punched through the edge on the back side.  Guess I need more practice!

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Oh, yeah - gotcha.  I have everything all done.. including edging .. before I sew the edges.  Once it's edged, THEN I mark the sewing line "a strong 1/8" in from the edges, including the edge of the slot (with the disclaimer that on some models I go a little wider from the slot ONLY, just found it fits the look of some models better).

You do have to watch when sewing with a machine that you don't get SUCKED DOWN IN the slot in the plate, which can result in that angled stitch.  I dn't get a lot of that, but I've had it happen so I know what you mean.  I USUALLY (again, I almost never say 'never') sew with the left toe and with the holster to the outside, so only that 1/8+" is over the slot.  This is due to the holster being a #curvedpanel - with a 50/50 you could easily put it to the inside, and then your issue is eliminated.  Or, you could sew and then trim ;)

 

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I didn't get a pic of the back of this one - in the box and gone. But this pic is the same P365, done the same way with the same pattern.

P365_Fp1.jpg

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Got it now - I will give it a try your way and see if it works for me:rolleyes:

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Very Nice.  Thanks for all the great info.

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11 hours ago, garypl said:

When I have tried to sew really close to the edge I have ended up with stitches that punched through the edge on the back side.  

I wonder if aguycould raise the feed dog just a tad and stop that?  I don't race around a holster - much slower than I go down the side of a belt - so I'm sure that helps.  The dog should be at or just above the plate when the needle enters.  If it's still below the plate, that could result in stitching angling toward the back edge. (note, in MN "aguycould" is one word).

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1 minute ago, JLSleather said:

I wonder if aguycould raise the feed dog just a tad and stop that?  I don't race around a holster - much slower than I go down the side of a belt - so I'm sure that helps.  The dog should be at or just above the plate when the needle enters.  If it's still below the plate, that could result in stitching angling toward the back edge. (note, in MN "aguycould" is one word).

Thanks for the tip.  I am going to sew that holster today and I’ll check the feed dog height before I commit.  

On another subject, I left MN in 1986 to move to GA and I sure miss walleye fishing on Mille Lacs lake!

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14 minutes ago, garypl said:

and I sure miss walleye fishing on Mille Lacs lake

EVERYBODY misses that.  You can still FISH it, just can't KEEP any of 'em.. catch 'n release only.  Now, with Redheads, I git that, but walleyes I sometimes want to bring home ;)

 

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4 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

EVERYBODY misses that.  You can still FISH it, just can't KEEP any of 'em.. catch 'n release only.  Now, with Redheads, I git that, but walleyes I sometimes want to bring home ;)

 

I can’t believe it has come to this!  I guess popularity over all the years forced this to be implemented.  I used to ice fish up there and it was like a city built in the middle of the lake.  As large as the lake is, hard to think it became so over fished :rip_1:

Leech lake still ok to fish and catch?  

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You kin keep the runts on Leech (assuming you're in line with all the other liberal rules n laws n regs n statutes n ordinances :rolleyes2:

They have a no-kill slot (20-26, or was it 22-26) and you can keep ONE over 26, or in other words, keep 4 fish under 2 lbs-ish.  Which is fine for lunch on the lake, but for dinner, I eat 6 of those just waiting for the taters to get done!

Off to the gym... before I change my mind ;)

 

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On 5/16/2019 at 6:57 AM, JLSleather said:

I wonder if aguycould raise the feed dog just a tad and stop that?  I don't race around a holster - much slower than I go down the side of a belt - so I'm sure that helps.  The dog should be at or just above the plate when the needle enters.  If it's still below the plate, that could result in stitching angling toward the back edge. (note, in MN "aguycould" is one word).

Well, I sewed my holster and immediately ran into problems!  Must not have had the holster angled properly and needle came out the side and hit the feed dog - didn’t break but rolled the edge.  Replaced needle and decided to move stitch line in 1/8” and no more issues until I got to the end.  Turned around and presser foot slipped off the edge and stitches look wonky.  Live and learn I guess.  Next one will hopefully be better:yes:  I’ll post pics in a separate thread.

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How ya move the stitch line in after ya start?#@!  Not gittin' the process here.  'Course, I don't understand them fellas preach at ya 'don't sew across a strap cuz ya weaken it'... then double stitch holes in a holster :o

 

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Maybe use a demountable table attachment around the arm ( to keep the holster horizontal when sewing ) when sewing these ?

Just a thought ..

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3 hours ago, JLSleather said:

How ya move the stitch line in after ya start?#@!  Not gittin' the process here.  'Course, I don't understand them fellas preach at ya 'don't sew across a strap cuz ya weaken it'... then double stitch holes in a holster :o

 

I moved it next to the meandering stamp design - almost looks like I planned it that way:)

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Hey Gary if the problem you are having is along the lines in this picture below you could try using the slotted needle plate or if you have not seen it yet here is a post I did awhile back might be of interest.

Problem below shows what happens when trying to sew close to the edge with the standard dog foot/needle plate.

DSC00297_resize.JPG

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7 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

 

Yeah, see that's what I was talking about... the feed dog being LOWER than the plate.

DSC00297_resize.JPG

 

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Today I learned something new .. :)

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I see that you can buy that narrow slot KH set on Alibaba for $76.  Before I buy any new parts I am going to play around with settings and stitch line.  I think if I plan ahead I can reduce the problem with my edge stitching.  I normally don’t use my 4500 for thin leather, so not such a big problem for me.

Gary

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