Singer 112g141 restoration problems

[Mizzy]

Can you please advise me?

If I wanted to change the flywheel from the current aluminium to an older steel one that fits, can I? This flywheel that I prefer isn’t symmetrical though, and I can’t find out why it would be so. I have several and they’re all the same.

Does anyone know the significance of it being different?

 

[dikman]

As long as it fits I can't see where the problem is, unless you don't like the look of it?

[mikesc]

The thicker part may be to give it some extra weight in just one place so as to increase the inertia going over the top of the revolution, that would in crease the force when the needle is going through..As long as you set it on the machine so that the thicker heavier part is just past TDC ( top dead centre ) as the needle is "striking through"..just before the needle point gets level with the feed dogs ( say 5mm above them ) on the down stroke..

[Mizzy]

That’s right Dikman. The aluminium one looks out of place to me, and it has Simanco on it rather than Singer. The end flywheel screw is missing too but the wheel doesn’t seem to need it in order to stay in place. Should I be worried?

Thanks Mikesc, I’ll have a go at that once I can set a needle. See, that’s another problem right there. The 1/2 inch spaced dual needle holder was welded onto the needle bar, but I hacksawed the weld off carefully and removed the holder only to discover my newly purchased 1/4 inch double needle holder is a tad too small when screwing it up into the needle bar. It falls out! So I won’t be getting another one off eBay ... maybe someone on here sells one?

I have multiple challenges ahead that I know of. A broken bobbin case opener, changing the 1/2 inch spacing to 1/4 inch for the rotary hooks, and replacing a broken take-up lever (which just cost me $120 with shipping). So I’m committed seeing the machine head and parts have already set me back $260.

Changing that take-up lever is going to be hard!

[Allotment17]

"Simanco on it rather than Singer."

Simanco stands for Singer Manufacturing co so genuine Singer part.

 

Edited June 26, 2019 by Allotment17

[Constabulary]

SIMANCO is Singer (SInger MANufacturing COmpany)

Where are you buying your parts that a take up lever costs $120

I replaced one on my 212G141 (successor of your 1112G141) and bought it from College Sewing in the UK. Pretty sure its the same as on your machine:

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/267300-TAKE-UP-LEVER-SINGER-212W

Parts number may be different but I´m confident it will fit. Why? Because the 111 and 211 share the same take up lever (see below link) and the 112 / 212 is the same but with 2 thread holes.

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/241518-TAKE-UP-LEVER-SINGER-211G

This is the bobbin case opener if your machine has the same hook saddle as the 111

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/10649-BOBBIN-CASE-OPENER-SEIKO-STW

 

============

EDIT:

Gauge sets are cheap on Ebay - however you probably have to replace your presser foot bar because there are 2 types of gauge sets - a push in type (old type) and a screw in type. So if you have a push in type I would replace the presser foot bar too because the screw in types are easier to find and cheaper. Thats a future investment if you ever want to switch to a different gauge set.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/14339/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=gauge+set+1%2F4&_sop=15

This is the needle bar you need if you want to use a screw in gauge set

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/267267-NEEDLE-BAR-SINGER-212W-212G

Edited June 26, 2019 by Constabulary

[Mizzy]

Oh Simanco hahaha damn blonde hair

I got the take-up lever from Sewing Parts Online, and I’ve already purchased the opener. But yeah, guess what, it’s wrong too. I queried it and the seller says you have to “adjust” it to fit. Really? The new one shown here with the old are totally different lengths. 

Thanks for the info Constabulary, you’re always so helpful.

[Gunnarsson]

1 hour ago, mikesc said:

The thicker part may be to give it some extra weight in just one place so as to increase the inertia going over the top of the revolution, that would in crease the force when the needle is going through..

Rotating inertia doesn't care about where on the circle the weight is located. Gravity would have a small effect, but I can't imagine anyone trying to use that on a high speed machine, causing it to be out of balance and getting vibrations because of it.
IF the wheel is heavier on one side (it may not be, hard to tell from one side) it WILL be to counter balance something else, on the opposite side.

[Constabulary]

Sorry that you have trouble with the parts but that sometime happens with after market parts from China. A good advise is buying OEM parts from Singer based machines made by SEIKO or JUKI. I had trouble with after market parts too so I´m always keen on figuring out if there are sewing machine brands with interchangeable parts. Beside JUKI and SEIKO I figured the older DURKOPP machines (not Durkopp-Adler) have a lot in common with Singer.

College sewing often mentions when a parts are GENUINE (f.i. Seiko or Juki) - thats a good thing so the chance that these parts will fit is 99% or higher.

I would not necessarily blame the parts dealer, they cannot check or test all the parts they get from "overseas sources" but I would expect that they at least "make it good" when a customer brings it to their attention and has a proof like the pictures you posted.

I´d swallow the anger and buy a new bobbin case opener. It´s not worth the time and nerves.

[mikesc]

3 hours ago, Gunnarsson said:

Rotating inertia doesn't care about where on the circle the weight is located.

I know I was kind of "grasping at straws" and posting whilst trying to get the thread to go under the bottom tension spring under a very recalcitrant 211 )..Mental image of old steam railway locomotive wheels ..Balance is far more likely, ( like the add on weights on car wheels..changed my tyres last week ) but why would they balance by "casting" an additional weight area, rather than take care of what was out of balance during manufacturing..One other thought does come to mind, one some domestic handwheels, there are additional parts fitted for allowing for disengaging the needle when winding bobbins..Maybe they batch made handwheels, even though that additional parts are not on that one ? As you say, without being able to see the other side, could be for any reason..

 

Afterthought..maybe that area was intended to be "pierced" and "threaded" to accept a handle on some machines..I know that normally the handle mounting hole is on the rim, but ...?

Edited June 26, 2019 by mikesc
typos

[Mizzy]

Thank you for your help, much appreciated!

My husband tig welded that broken piece back together, just have to drill a hole now. 

But first, I’m trying to remove the needle bar assembly which is the first step in replacing the take-up lever. 

Picture 1 shows the bracket screw and positioning bracket, which I removed, but apparently the needle bar assembly just slides out. It doesn’t. 

Picture 2 shows a screw that isn’t mentioned in the military handbook disassembly instructions for a similar machine. Maybe that’s keeping the bracket from sliding out? Anyone please?

Picture 3 shows the bobbin case opener tig weld job. I think this is a good option when replacing broken parts that are near impossible to find.

 

[Gunnarsson]

6 hours ago, Mizzy said:

My husband tig welded that broken piece back together, just have to drill a hole now. 

Picture 3 shows the bobbin case opener tig weld job. I think this is a good option when replacing broken parts that are near impossible to find.

Welding, brazing/silver soldering or making parts yourself is a great option for many repairs. Good job!