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How to make my own patterns

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Hey guys and gals, I have only made patterns for smaller stuff like holsters. I want to make myself a messenger bag but don't know where to start, I could buy the pattern on Etsy but it is like 30 dollars, I could buy a lot of leather for that. And also non of them really are what I am envisioning. So my question is how do I hand draw my own patterns and get the dimensions right so I don't waste leather. Any advice would be appreciated as makeing patterns this big are foreign to me.thank you for the replys 

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You can find that exact info in Stohlmans series on making leather cases. available in print and digital download. you'll find the actual thing you're talking about in VOLUME 2 but I'd recommend getting volume 1 just for the basic principles it shows.  It would take you a year of wading through the stuff around here to get just what's in 10 pages of either of those books.

Alternately, if you already know holsters 'n' other 'smaller stuff", then might be just as easy spend the money for the pattern somebody already made 

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sit down with a pad of paper and a pen and figure out how big you want all the different parts. Then figure out if you want to do a rolled edge or flat edge on the gusset. Then start adding the extra for your stitch lines and thickness of the leather. Won't hurt in adding 1/2"-3/4" to all dimensions, just for safety sake. Then, grab some cardboard and draw the pieces out, cut them out and tape them together. Won't take long before you figure out what needs to be changed.

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On 7/20/2019 at 5:02 PM, JLSleather said:

You can find that exact info in Stohlmans series on making leather cases. available in print and digital download. you'll find the actual thing you're talking about in VOLUME 2 but I'd recommend getting volume 1 just for the basic principles it shows.  It would take you a year of wading through the stuff around here to get just what's in 10 pages of either of those books.

Alternately, if you already know holsters 'n' other 'smaller stuff", then might be just as easy spend the money for the pattern somebody already made 

Are the patterns in ASs  download ready to be printed the same way that Nigels are?

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I think when Stohlman was writing his books..The idea of downloadable pdfs ready for printing were not even a gleam in anyone's mind's eye..Not even Sir TBL.

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55 minutes ago, toxo said:

Are the patterns in ASs  download ready to be printed the same way that Nigels are?

I have no idea what nigel does. 

Those Stohlman books are not patterns -- they are instruction in HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN patterns.  V2 does have a couple styles of "messenger bag", but it has the sizes like a blueprint.. you lay it out to fit YOU.  That was the guy's question -- how to MAKE YOUR OWN patterns.

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I have the 3 volumes of How to make leather cases, I love them all and they have been very helpful.  Now how many of those "exact" items have I made?  none, but i have used pieces and parts from all 3 books for many many projects... ha handle from here for this bag, a pocket from this page for that bag, etc...also when i was struggling on how to make a turned bag look a little better at the seams, i turned to the volumes and found the info on welting, and figured that would work for piping as well and it turned out ok.  My most recent bag was a patter from Tony See (dieselpunk), and I used a strap design right out of the volumes, the one with a conway buckle for the adjustment...turned out great.

Best advice i can give is to do something...I could sit an envision ideas all day long, but i have to get something down on posterboard and start folding and getting 3d going for my brain to kick in.  Once that spark happens the leather comes out and things happen, sometimes good, sometimes not, but good or bad i'm learning what to do or what not to do.

For patterns, keep in mind always...what seam allowance am I leaving, and how will the temper, and thickness of the material affect the dimensions i've built out on paper or posterboard, and DOCUMENT everything you do if your desire is to be able to recreate the bag!!!  I am very bad about this and i'll end up with a finished bag that i really like, and then a few weeks, months, days...i'll realize, if i had to reddo it i'd be starting from scratch because what i had drawn out and what actually happened were 2 totally different things.

Hope this helps, and can't wait to see what comes to mind.

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5 minutes ago, koreric75 said:

I have the 3 volumes of How to make leather cases, I love them all and they have been very helpful.  Now how many of those "exact" items have I made?  none, but i have used pieces and parts from all 3 books for many many projects... ha handle from here for this bag, a pocket from this page for that bag, etc...also when i was struggling on how to make a turned bag look a little better at the seams, i turned to the volumes and found the info on welting, and figured that would work for piping as well and it turned out ok.  My most recent bag was a patter from Tony See (dieselpunk), and I used a strap design right out of the volumes, the one with a conway buckle for the adjustment...turned out great.

Best advice i can give is to do something...I could sit an envision ideas all day long, but i have to get something down on posterboard and start folding and getting 3d going for my brain to kick in.  Once that spark happens the leather comes out and things happen, sometimes good, sometimes not, but good or bad i'm learning what to do or what not to do.

For patterns, keep in mind always...what seam allowance am I leaving, and how will the temper, and thickness of the material affect the dimensions i've built out on paper or posterboard, and DOCUMENT everything you do if your desire is to be able to recreate the bag!!!  I am very bad about this and i'll end up with a finished bag that i really like, and then a few weeks, months, days...i'll realize, if i had to reddo it i'd be starting from scratch because what i had drawn out and what actually happened were 2 totally different things.

Hope this helps, and can't wait to see what comes to mind.

A very good summary.

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I buy a sheet or two of brown wrapping paper and use that to make the idea without worrying about seams or anything else just sellotape it together

Visualise the final shape and when you have the design you like then inspect it and decide how you are going to make it in leather, will you use hand or machine sewing, sew inside out or as it is, can the machine go around the bends or get in to the edges,  single gusset or three part, etc

Now make a new pattern based upon the old one with all the allowances applied and where possible marked

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On ‎7‎/‎20‎/‎2019 at 12:02 PM, JLSleather said:

You can find that exact info in Stohlmans series on making leather cases. available in print and digital download. you'll find the actual thing you're talking about in VOLUME 2 but I'd recommend getting volume 1 just for the basic principles it shows.  It would take you a year of wading through the stuff around here to get just what's in 10 pages of either of those books.

Alternately, if you already know holsters 'n' other 'smaller stuff", then might be just as easy spend the money for the pattern somebody already made 

While those Stohlman books are so old as to look like something silly, they do indeed have so much useful information in them that they are invaluable.

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6 minutes ago, SouthernCross said:

While those Stohlman books are so old as to look like something silly, they do indeed have so much useful information in them that they are invaluable.

Yup.  Don't imagine I'll ever have need for a leather case for playing cards, and don't really need a place to store my cassette tapes.  But there's a wealth of stuff in there about welts, gussets, handles, sewing corners..... go on and on.

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I think the Stohlman books look great..a lot of "modern" illustrations are nowhere near as easy to understand as to what goes where etc..
edit to add ..The first "art" degree I ever did / obtained ( BA hons ) was as a medical and scientific illustrator..so I have a professional appreciation for good clear illustration that actually looks like the thing the accompanying text is talking about..Al Stohlman illustration is great.. :)

Edited by mikesc

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