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Hoowzer

Singer 29K60 Wheel Stuck

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Hi Folks -

My mom has a Singer 29K60 that she has had for as long as I can remember. The manual hand crank is stuck and no longer moves. Is there something we can do to troubleshoot?

Secondly, are there local shops in Atlanta, Ga that may be able to repair if we can't do it ourselves?

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What we do to start is to squirt WD-40 or equivalent in all moving parts crevices, holes etc..  Others use a bath of various fluids like diesel to soak the whole machine. I'm sure you're going to get lots of different comments on diffetent techniques, everyone is so helpful.  @Constabulary is an expert renovator of the old iron ladies on here and is always ready to share his tried and tested methods :)

 

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First place I'd check are the feed dogs/teeth and see if they are clear of accumulated fibres and dust

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WD 40 isn't a release oil*..it is a water dispersal agent , that is the WD part of the name..( in France they call it a degrippant ( release oil..literally "un gripper" )..it is not ), but myths promoted by marketing ( and what WD40 write on the cans ) and compounded by non chemists recommendations due to the advertising, keeps people thinking it is for freeing stuck mechanical parts.
You should use either diesel** ( few drops on what ever should be moving, and isn't..then wait 24 hours try again, keep doing this until it moves) or use brake fluid ( which has far lower surface tension than even diesel, it will penetrate better , but will also strip paint finishes so be careful and it is a skin irritant and is bad for your eyes, so be care full, the red brake fluid works better than the green ) Transmission oil will also work, but brake fluid is better..

You can make your own penetrating oil by mixing 80% cooking oil ( sunflower seed oil works best ) with 20% acetone..

*Engineers, Chemists and Mechanics laugh when people tell them that WD40 is a release oil..but if you use it as water dispersant, it and it's "clones" are OK.

**Diesel bath if the entire machine is stuck, like some that have been in barns for 25 years or more..

In controlled laboratory testing , plain cooking oil ( sunflower seed oil ) performs better at unblocking rusted nuts and bolts etc , than WD40..

Were I not in the middle of cooking dinner, I'd be able to find the articles about the many tests on this.

But, marketing is more powerful than facts and real life..WD40 has some oil in it, so it works a bit, but nowhere near as well as diesel or brake fluid, cooking oil and acetone come just after diesel..In the USA there are some proprietary products that ( have weird names ; )) and work much better than WD40..some have been mentioned on here before, I can't remember them at the moment, I always use either Diesel or red brake fluid, as does my neighbour ( a French Engineer ) ..and all the good mechanics ( car, truck, machinery ) heavy plant..that I know..same when I lived in the UK and Ireland and elsewhere.

Edited by mikesc

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I would start looking at the driving belt, look into it from the machine side and see it there is a problem with the cam that runs on the inside of the wheel

After that walk along the top and bottom paths using the viewing points

Try adjusting the stitch length mine has stuck there at the short stitch

The stitch turning mechanism with the two wings has a locking screw a third of the way up the cylinder

Whatever you do start with a good oiling or do what mike suggests

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2 hours ago, chrisash said:

I would start looking at the driving belt, look into it from the machine side and see it there is a problem with the cam that runs on the inside of the wheel

After that walk along the top and bottom paths using the viewing points

Try adjusting the stitch length mine has stuck there at the short stitch

The stitch turning mechanism with the two wings has a locking screw a third of the way up the cylinder

Whatever you do start with a good oiling or do what mike suggests

Do you have pictures on where this is? Mom has tried to find this, but couldn't find anything.

 

Much appreciated

Edited by Hoowzer

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Check the gearbox, whatever you do, not force it.  If possible get a manual and study the action of the bottom mechanism.   Could be as simple as a broken needle point that fell in the gears or a major  overhaul.  These machines are relatively simple and can be fixed  if you follow the guide.  Good Luck 

Manuals are available online on this site, check with Toledo for availability

Leo

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On 8/3/2019 at 10:08 PM, mikesc said:

WD 40 isn't a release oil*..it is a water dispersal agent , that is the WD part of the name..( in France they call it a degrippant ( release oil..literally "un gripper" )..it is not ), but myths promoted by marketing ( and what WD40 write on the cans ) and compounded by non chemists recommendations due to the advertising, keeps people thinking it is for freeing stuck mechanical parts.

I meant to say a release agent but WD-40 came out !  We use Holtz Degrippant here in France which works a treat.  Thanks for the extra info on WD-40  !!  @mikesc

Hope you get her un-stuck @Hoowzer.  We have found that in the Singer 29Ks we've renovated, they get stuck at the head - it feels like the wheel but it's in the head.  We've had some really stuck ones too - almost broken for parts, but we've managed to get them back - using Holtz Degrippant !!!  

Edited by marronne

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Just like most light spray oils WD40 mostly contains something that is/is similar to kerosene, presumably as a thinning agent to make it sprayable and let it soak into tight spaces, a small amount of oil(s), and some of them contains a small amount of acid (presumably to attack rust). Check the MSDS, the contents are no rocket science, it's a little oil mixed with thinner stuff to help the oil get to where you want it.  

I don't know of any petroleum oils that mixes with water, so all of them could be called water dispersant. Just as all of them lubricates, and all of them burn...

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5 minutes ago, Gunnarsson said:

Just like most light spray oils WD40 mostly contains something that is/is similar to kerosene, presumably as a thinning agent to make it sprayable and let it soak into tight spaces, a small amount of oil(s), and some of them contains a small amount of acid (presumably to attack rust). Check the MSDS, the contents are no rocket science, it's a little oil mixed with thinner stuff to help the oil get to where you want it.  

I don't know of any petroleum oils that mixes with water, so all of them could be called water dispersant. Just as all of them lubricates, and all of them burn...

Perhaps surprisingly, it IS rocket science!   WD40 was originally developed for Convair in the 1950s for the Atlas missiles to protect from rust and corrosion while they were stored for use.   https://www.wd40company.com/our-company/our-history/

 

- Bill

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Quick update here. I shared the diagram with my mom on where she should spray WD40 on all moving parts.

Per my conversation, she mentioned "a lot of gunk" came out of the machine and the wheel seems to be moving again. We'll continue to wait and then apply some machine oil and see what happens!

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3 hours ago, Hoowzer said:

Quick update here. I shared the diagram with my mom on where she should spray WD40 on all moving parts.

Per my conversation, she mentioned "a lot of gunk" came out of the machine and the wheel seems to be moving again. We'll continue to wait and then apply some machine oil and see what happens!

Excellent news!  Always good to get these lovely old machines going again :)

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Check with Southeast Sewing Products, 228 Otley Dr.; Atlanta.  I have dealt with them before.  (a long time ago)  They were very helpful.   They have obsolete parts available.    (800) 426-2246

 If it is stuck, most likely something is jamming it, like a piece of broken needle or something similar.  If that is the case all the "magic" lubricants in the world won't help.  Don't force it !!

 

Edited by Cascabel

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