Laser engraver deal? Maybe.

[toxo]

My one of these arrived today. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7000mW-Offline-USB-Laser-DIY-Logo-Engraver-155x175mm-Cutter-Mark-Machine/133058627180?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D7c78d5b74a4a49d185e8ca86c22b8a66%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D10%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D133137836229%26itm%3D133058627180%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ac34f2482-d8fd-11e9-89d6-74dbd1805e41|parentrq%3A3d545f1916d0ad4a4cebd6c0ffa92ade|iid%3A1

I was feeling quite smug seeing as it was £280 and I got it for £274. Then I went on Ali Express and found some a lot cheaper. One worked out at about £209 delivered  I think. Whether true or not the deal I think was for three more days. Haven't unboxed mine yet so can't say if it's shite or not. Will certainly let you know but just thought for anyone thinking about it, might be worth a look.

[mikesc]

My small laser is one of these..( got it to run without needing it connecting to a computer*) they work well, mine was an Aliexpress, even cheaper in euros ( under €200.00 ) inc delivery.Depending on what you are engraving in B+W you can run it at under 25% power and 10% depth most of the time..Halftones only need a setting of 1% or 2%..and the same 1 or 2% for depth.

When you are setting it up, make sure that the horizontal arm is parallel to your base board..this is the 2nd "rail" that attaches to the 1st rail which the "feet" and the screen are on, when you take it all out of the box you'll understand..If the 2nd rail is not horizontal, then on larger designs the laser will not have the same focus at all parts of the design, resulting on bad "unsharp" images. The "box" with the cable coming out that goes to the laser module ( inside a "cable tidy" ) is what controls this alignment to the baseboard..it has tiny wheels which run on channels inside the 1st rail..as does the one "box" which the laser module rides on onto the 2nd rail..These "wheels" are on bolts which go through each box, get the bolts on the 1st box too loose, and the 2nd rail will "sag" down towards the left hand end by a few mm ( which means the left side is lower than the right side when you are setting the laser focus ) ..but, if you get these 4 bolts too tight, the 2nd rail will be parallel to the base board, but the machine will "squeal" and "judder" as the wheels will not be in the centre of their tracks..It's a "Goldilocks" thing, they leave the manufacturer mostly assembled compared with many "rail " laser systems, but not "tested" fully assembled..

Last..bear in mind that these are diode laser units..blue violet ( around 405 to 455 nm ) this wavelength of laser is actually more dangerous to your eyes than the bigger ones like my CO2 laser ( cost around 4 times as much, seen some cheaper at around €350- €400 inc delivery, but I don't know how good they are ) ..The CO2 lasers use a wavelength that can damage your cornea..( so do not look at it, that is do not look at it working without eye protection for the particular wavelength , not just do not point the beam hit your eyes ) but your cornea can repair if you get a "flash" ( think "welders flash" ) , from a CO2 laser..

But a blue violet diode laser , like these small ones, or the desktop "cube" lower powered ones that have been mentioned in another thread recently..use a wavelength that affects your retinas if you get a "flash", your retina does not repair anywhere nearly so well as a slightly flashed cornea..eye damage from these little ones is permanent. Always use the eye protection for their wavelength of laser..and don't let anyone else or any animals ( their eyes are as vulnerable to lasers as our eyes, and they do not know to "not look at the thing", it will damage their eye sight, or blind them and you, permanently, if they look at it working ) watch it work even for a few seconds..It can take a few days to realise that the damage is permanent..Bright spot "after image" ( like welding spot flash) that does not go away, eyes open, or shut..

If the software is the usual one**, it will have a large number of "Brand logos" included..the laser definition is 500 DPI laser dot is .01mm ( these are basically tabletop CNC units that run on 500 DPI with a laser where the cutter would be )..make a copy of all the data ( folders and .exe file on the USB that comes with it..save it in a folder on your computer, in case you lose the key ..you can put the software onto any USB key and it will work..If you have a windows computer, you may find that at first run the computer will say something about a missing file during installation..just carry on with the install, the software will probably work anyway. When working as they describe as "offline" ( not connected to a computer and running off just the key ) it will only see .bmp files on the key ( the other file types will be on the key, but "invisible" to the circuitry in the small screen module ) , when the laser is connected to a computer, it will "see" the other file types, and can engrave them.

*my CO2 ( 40 watt laser ) machine requires a computer connection to run..and it "lives" in the atelier with it's dedicated computer..the 7watt "offline" lives in a corner of the veranda..inside a purpose built safety screen vented box..

**Some of the older versions only had Chinese available..later ones have a different GUI ( with other languages available ) but the manuals are for the old version layout..which can be confusing.

Laser engraving a lot of things, including chrome tan leather and PVC ( plastic leather ) releases poisonous gases..so vent the thing to outside..also you cannot engrave transparent things with this model, ( although if you paint them first you can , then remove the paint ) and cannot cut acrylics, for that you'd need a CO2 laser.

They are fun however :), and more practical ( engravable area ) than the "Cubes"..not as large an area as the small "box" CO2 units ( about 21 x 30 cm ) ..My next model laser ( I'll have to clear a dedicated space in the atelier to set it up ) is a diode model, but with a 15watt head and a 100 x 120 cm ( approx) rail system..Hopefully I can run a CNC cutting system head on it when it isn't running a laser head.

I'm very tempted to buy another few of these small units and have them on shelves stacked vertically, each running off it's own key..their autonomous "offline" feature is very handy.Oh, and you can buy spare control board modules, screens and laser modules for these and other blue/violet diode laser machines from Ebay and Amazon.

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc
typos, grammar and clarity

[chrisash]

Lots of good advice there Mike

All to often these days the adverts tell you what the machines can do, but fail in telling you what not to do, assuming everyone already either knows the potential safety issues on using the product

[toxo]

21 hours ago, mikesc said:

My small laser is one of these..( got it to run without needing it connecting to a computer*) they work well, mine was an Aliexpress, even cheaper in euros ( under €200.00 ) inc delivery.Depending on what you are engraving in B+W you can run it at under 25% power and 10% depth most of the time..Halftones only need a setting of 1% or 2%..and the same 1 or 2% for depth.

When you are setting it up, make sure that the horizontal arm is parallel to your base board..this is the 2nd "rail" that attaches to the 1st rail which the "feet" and the screen are on, when you take it all out of the box you'll understand..If the 2nd rail is not horizontal, then on larger designs the laser will not have the same focus at all parts of the design, resulting on bad "unsharp" images. The "box" with the cable coming out that goes to the laser module ( inside a "cable tidy" ) is what controls this alignment to the baseboard..it has tiny wheels which run on channels inside the 1st rail..as does the one "box" which the laser module rides on onto the 2nd rail..These "wheels" are on bolts which go through each box, get the bolts on the 1st box too loose, and the 2nd rail will "sag" down towards the left hand end by a few mm ( which means the left side is lower than the right side when you are setting the laser focus ) ..but, if you get these 4 bolts too tight, the 2nd rail will be parallel to the base board, but the machine will "squeal" and "judder" as the wheels will not be in the centre of their tracks..It's a "Goldilocks" thing, they leave the manufacturer mostly assembled compared with many "rail " laser systems, but not "tested" fully assembled..

Last..bear in mind that these are diode laser units..blue violet ( around 405 to 455 nm ) this wavelength of laser is actually more dangerous to your eyes than the bigger ones like my CO2 laser ( cost around 4 times as much, seen some cheaper at around €350- €400 inc delivery, but I don't know how good they are ) ..The CO2 lasers use a wavelength that can damage your cornea..( so do not look at it, that is do not look at it working without eye protection for the particular wavelength , not just do not point the beam hit your eyes ) but your cornea can repair if you get a "flash" ( think "welders flash" ) , from a CO2 laser..

But a blue violet diode laser , like these small ones, or the desktop "cube" lower powered ones that have been mentioned in another thread recently..use a wavelength that affects your retinas if you get a "flash", your retina does not repair anywhere nearly so well as a slightly flashed cornea..eye damage from these little ones is permanent. Always use the eye protection for their wavelength of laser..and don't let anyone else or any animals ( their eyes are as vulnerable to lasers as our eyes, and they do not know to "not look at the thing", it will damage their eye sight, or blind them and you, permanently, if they look at it working ) watch it work even for a few seconds..It can take a few days to realise that the damage is permanent..Bright spot "after image" ( like welding spot flash) that does not go away, eyes open, or shut..

If the software is the usual one**, it will have a large number of "Brand logos" included..the laser definition is 500 DPI laser dot is .01mm ( these are basically tabletop CNC units that run on 500 DPI with a laser where the cutter would be )..make a copy of all the data ( folders and .exe file on the USB that comes with it..save it in a folder on your computer, in case you lose the key ..you can put the software onto any USB key and it will work..If you have a windows computer, you may find that at first run the computer will say something about a missing file during installation..just carry on with the install, the software will probably work anyway. When working as they describe as "offline" ( not connected to a computer and running off just the key ) it will only see .bmp files on the key ( the other file types will be on the key, but "invisible" to the circuitry in the small screen module ) , when the laser is connected to a computer, it will "see" the other file types, and can engrave them.

*my CO2 ( 40 watt laser ) machine requires a computer connection to run..and it "lives" in the atelier with it's dedicated computer..the 7watt "offline" lives in a corner of the veranda..inside a purpose built safety screen vented box..

**Some of the older versions only had Chinese available..later ones have a different GUI ( with other languages available ) but the manuals are for the old version layout..which can be confusing.

Laser engraving a lot of things, including chrome tan leather and PVC ( plastic leather ) releases poisonous gases..so vent the thing to outside..also you cannot engrave transparent things with this model, ( although if you paint them first you can , then remove the paint ) and cannot cut acrylics, for that you'd need a CO2 laser.

They are fun however :), and more practical ( engravable area ) than the "Cubes"..not as large an area as the small "box" CO2 units ( about 21 x 30 cm ) ..My next model laser ( I'll have to clear a dedicated space in the atelier to set it up ) is a diode model, but with a 15watt head and a 100 x 120 cm ( approx) rail system..Hopefully I can run a CNC cutting system head on it when it isn't running a laser head.

I'm very tempted to buy another few of these small units and have them on shelves stacked vertically, each running off it's own key..their autonomous "offline" feature is very handy.Oh, and you can buy spare control board modules, screens and laser modules for these and other blue/violet diode laser machines from Ebay and Amazon.

Thanks Mike. I'm sure this will be very handy once I get the damn thing working.The software on the usb has MAC in it and windows can't open the driver.exe file. Seller has pointed me to the latest version of the software which seems to be exactly the same. If you've any idea what I'm doing wrong make it basic please. I've told seller all this and left a phone number saying if anyone speaks english to call me and we'll go through it together. It all seems to be working ok. does the corners and center from the console. but no interface.

[mikesc]

Your computer is a mac or a windows PC..if windows which one ? and which "service pack" ?

Don't worry about the software on the key having mac in it if you are using windows, they ship the keys with software for both systems..

Ok just I re read your post ..you are using windows..which one..and which service pack ?

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc

[toxo]

30 minutes ago, mikesc said:

Your computer is a mac or a windows PC..if windows which one ? and which "service pack" ?

Don't worry about the software on the key having mac in it if you are using windows, they ship the keys with software for both systems..

Ok just I re read your post ..you are using windows..which one..and which service pack ?

win 7 home edition. service pack 1

[mikesc]

OK..I have that version in French on a machine..my other win 7 machines are English win7 Ultimate..But there should be no difference between an install on win home 7 sp1 French and win7 home sp1 English..If I remember correctly it installs in Chinese first time anyway and then I changed the language to English ( French was not available as an option ) ..

 So I'll install from the original key onto my win home 7 sp1..and then walk you through the steps..

First..I'll ..make sure we have the same files on our keys ( give me 10 minutes or so to find the original key that came with the machine..and I'll be back to you )

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc

[mikesc]

Took 25 minutes..I had to type out what the key contents were..so..

Key is approx 127mb..depending on software version.
On the key are ..
1 Folder "Picture"
1 Folder "system volume information"
1 Folder "雕刻机软件"
1 file   "driver.EXE"
1 file   "L1L2 u盘.rar"
1 file   "MAC.zip"

right click on driver.EXE..and select properties..

it says ..Modified 12/17/2016
it says size ...243,3 kB (243 290 bytes)

In picture folder..there are images
there is a bmp folder..
outside the bmp folder..there are images..
there are some .bmp files
there are some .jpg files
there are some .png files
there are some .xj files

When the key is in the laser machine, what are displayed are only the .bmp files, and you can only engrave .bmp type files..

But, when the laser is connected to the computer, and you are using the software without the key being in the machine, the software on the computer can see all the files types..and you can engrave with any of them..

In the "雕刻机软件" folder are the files that the software uses to run on both the key when it is connected to the laser, and also when the software is installed on the computer and the laser is connected to the computer..
in this folder there are 6 files.
AForge.dll
AForge.Imaging.dll
CSkin.dll
diao.exe
nerDxf.dll
pei_zhi.ini

Question are you able to see the Chinese characters in my post ?..If so..do you have the same files ?

 

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc
typos

[toxo]

5 minutes ago, mikesc said:

Took 25 minutes..I had to type out what the key contents were..so..

Key is approx 127mb..depending on software version.
On the key are ..
1 Folder "Picture"
1 Folder "system volume information"
1 Folder "雕刻机软件"
1 file   "driver.EXE"
1 file   "L1L2 u盘.rar"
1 file   "MAC.zip"

right click on driver.EXE..and select properties..

it says ..Modified 12/17/2016
it says size ...243,3 kB (243 290 bytes)

In picture folder..there are images
there is a bmp folder..
outside the bmp folder..there are images..
there are some .bmp files
there are some .jpg files
there are some .png files
there are some .xj files

When the key is in the laser machine, what are displayed are only the .bmp files, and you can only engrave .bmp type files..

But, when the laser is connected to the computer, and you are using the software without the key being in the machine, the software on the computer can see all the files types..and you can engrave with any of them..

In the "雕刻机软件" folder are the files that the software uses to run on both the key when it is connected to the laser, and also when the software is installed on the computer and the laser is connected to the computer..
in this folder there are 6 files.
AForge.dll
AForge.Imaging.dll
CSkin.dll
diao.exe
nerDxf.dll
pei_zhi.ini

Question are you able to see the Chinese characters in my post ?..If so..do you have the same files ?

 

diao doesn't have .exe on the end

[toxo]

2 minutes ago, toxo said:

diao doesn't have .exe on the end

pei  thing doesn't have .ini

[toxo]

double click driver. get windows cannot open. click install. says file is not accessible.

[mikesc]

That is probably because windows is usually set to hide certain file type extensions from the user..( a major mistake in my opinion, and that of many others ) ..

OK I presume that the key is in the computer and you are using windows explorer to see what is on the key..so..stay in windows explorer on that folder..go to "organize"..click it..go down to "folder and search options" click it..you'll land in "folder options"..click the tab that says "view"..scroll down to "hide extensions for known file types"..put an X in it..then click apply and OK..now look at diao.exe and pei_zhi.ini ..they should now show their "extensions"..

 I had to fire up an English win7 ulti to know what those steps say in English..

I'll wait for your reply..I'm using a linux machine to type this , my win machines are in another room, I do not allow windows to connect to the internet.

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc
typo

[toxo]

was already ticked

 

[mikesc]

Ah..sounds like you may have a corrupted USB stick..

Does your driver.EXE crap out with any messages if you select install as administrator ?

[toxo]

not sure what I've done but clicked on driver and said run as admin and it says install success with jargon.

 

[toxo]

winzip extracting files in the background. saying can't create blah blah driver.exe. in foreground, error close all apps, and reboot to reinstall

[mikesc]

winzip should not be running..did driver.EXE install OK ' ( apart from whatever messages it came up with ) before winzip fired up, and did you do anything additional to start winzip up ?

[toxo]

download latest from net only open with winzip. Had to download evaluation copy. No, I haven't invoked winzip

[toxo]

Here's download link.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/lsn2asiinhnhxjl/L1%u3001L2_USB_20190903.rar/file

[mikesc]

Ah..you have one of the machines that got sold with the "you need to download the latest software from the internet" ?

Your link gives me "400 Bad Request"

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc

[toxo]

No. But I had this same trouble with  the software that came on the stick

[toxo]

http://www.mediafire.com/file/lsn2asiinhnhxjl/L1�L2_USB_20190903.rar/file

Is this one the same?

 

[mikesc]

OK..I'll try something..I have put the files that are in the folder 雕刻机软件 ( these are the software files ) and the working driver.EXE into a folder and compressed it to a 7z file  ( that will "unzip" with winzip, or you can just click "open" )..I'll see if the server here at Johanna's will accept it as an upload..( it may not, that may be a blocked file type, or it may "quarantine" it , or alter it ) ..if it does accept it, you can download it and use the files in there..including re running the driver.exe to start..

You'll have to rename your current 雕刻机软件 to 雕刻机软件OLD..and rename your driver.EXE to driver.EXEOLD..windows will not like that, but it will accept to rename them..That way when you run my driver.EXE it will not "clash" with your current files, ..If Johanna's server "balks"..then pm me with your email address and I'll send you a complete copy of the key contents tomorrow afternoon.

 

The latest link that you posted works..so I'll download the files there to see what they are first, before trying to upload that 7z file..back in 10 minutes or so..

[mikesc]

OK..the .rar file downloaded from that last link contains a copy of what is on my key, same version of software, same dates etc....and your winzip craps out ( saying that it could not create driver.EXE etc ) when unzipping that .rar file from that link ?

Edited September 19, 2019 by mikesc

[toxo]

Yes. Just rebooted and run as admin. winzip saying it can't do it. Said install anyway. Can't access the file